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Well I am amazed

millworkman

millworkman

eXtreme
Somehow, with a couple below freezing nights last week and most of the others in the high 30'sF, all of my big plants are still setting pods. Flowers are still coming in strong and setting over half of them. I have a naga node that put out 8 flowers last week before the freezing nights and 7 of the flowers have set pods. These things just will not die. Awesome.

Noah
 
Wow if that's the case I should be able to keep mine going year round. The lowest it usually gets is mid 50's and that's not often.
 
millworkman said:
Somehow, with a couple below freezing nights last week and most of the others in the high 30'sF, all of my big plants are still setting pods. Flowers are still coming in strong and setting over half of them. I have a naga node that put out 8 flowers last week before the freezing nights and 7 of the flowers have set pods. These things just will not die. Awesome.

Noah
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If it got that cold here I'd think the apocolypse was approaching.
 
Were the days fairly warm? How many hoyrs of sun do you give them, would be cool to see iceicles (spelling) hanging from a pod, what doesn't killem makes em stroner, good stuffnoah
 
the only plant I have is in a pot now so when it gets cold I will bring it in. I will have to cut it back though,it is over 6 ft and hangs all over in all directions.
 
millworkman said:
Somehow, with a couple below freezing nights last week and most of the others in the high 30'sF, all of my big plants are still setting pods.
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I have been trying to point out that the famous list of reasons for flower drop is erroneous, but it is still being posted without anyone explaining where the "facts" come from. Actual personal experience FTW! ;)
 
Are you referring to Willard's top 10 list? :)

Chris

MrArboc said:
I have been trying to point out that the famous list of reasons for flower drop is erroneous, but it is still being posted without anyone explaining where the "facts" come from. Actual personal experience FTW! ;)
Click to expand...
 
MrArboc said:
I have been trying to point out that the famous list of reasons for flower drop is erroneous, but it is still being posted without anyone explaining where the "facts" come from. Actual personal experience FTW! ;)
Click to expand...

I love Willard's list and I think its a great textbook anwer to a question that comes up many times on many forums. It a list of probable causes for flower drop, not a guaranteed of flower drop. I really don't see what the problem is Mr Arboc, you seem to like bringing the subject up whenever you can?

Flower drop probable causes:[Does not mean guarantee of flower drop]

1. Day temp too high >95F
2. Night temp too low
 
POTAWIE said:
I really don't see what the problem is Mr Arboc, you seem to like bringing the subject up whenever you can?
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A question is asked. The list is posted, often with a remark about learning to use the search function. End of discussion. No one wants to explain where these "facts" came from. Where is the research? Who decided that this is the top ten, and how?

As you have noted I have brought this up numerous times with no answers - that is the problem.
 
Ok, I don't ever recall you asking a question but here's my answer.

Most chile sites I've checked suggest reasons very similar to Willard's
Here's just one example
"The number of flowers produced is very large compared to those which actually set fruit, and a larger percentage of the early flowers set fruit than the later flowers. The key factor affecting fruit set is night temperature, which ideally should be between 65 and 80 degrees F. Fruit will not set when the temperature is above 86 degrees at night because of excessive transpiration, which causes blossom drop. Other causes of blossom drop are excessive nitrogen, high winds, and lack of pollination. If daytime temperatures exceed 95 degrees, pollen will abort and the fruit set will be reduced."
http://www.fiery-foods.com/index.ph...atid=124:the-pepper-growing-season&Itemid=147
 
I believe Mr Arboc is trying to reconcile the list's temperature quotes with Noah's experience with pepper flowering. Which is a very valid point since the list actually doesn't give you the whole story about temperature effects on peppers.

In a study done by Dorland and Went [Plant Growth Under Controlled Conditions. VIII. Growth and Fruiting of the Chili Pepper (Capsicum annuum). American Journal of Botany, Vol. 34, No. 8 (Oct., 1947), pp. 393-401]:

Flowering was most abundant at 20.5-15.5C [68.9-59.9F] night temperature for young plants, but in older plants the optimum night temperature shifted to 8.5C [47.3F]. The same was true for fruit set. Depending on the age of the plant the optimal night temperature for total fruit weight shifted from 20 to 12C [68 to 53.6F].
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A general progression in tolerable night temp drop was seen as plants got older. In the study the oldest plants were 5.5 months old. Noah's plants are probably big and old compared to normal short season growing (2.5-3.5 months) whose optimal night temps were 59.9-68.9F. Perhaps that list and general advice were intended for short season growers. In which case most people at THP would be exceptions :) But the rest of the list sounds common sense.
 
Since we had a mild cold front about a week ago, my plants have started setting pods like crazy. Daytime temps were in the mid 90's now are around the mid 80's. Night temps are around mid 70's

Maybe it was the temp change, maybe coincidence.
All I know is that I dont care what it was but im very happy.
 
I*'m in 90's and still getting bud drop!We are supposed to get some reasonable temps at night next week,I'm really looking forward to it!
 
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