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7 Pots & Scotch Bonnets (2018- )

I'm using Xtreme Tea and I'm also getting Mykos WP.
I'm making a small batch of AACT (They recommend using an 80 g. pouch for 3-5 gal)
I'll use 4 g. / qt. and a pinch of activator
with 2 mL of hi-brix plant molasses to add some carbs for microbacterial and fungal growth.
(They also recommend brewing it in a fountainhead at a temperature of 60-70°F over 48 hours)
I'm brewing it for 12 hours at outdoor temperatures, but starting with distilled water slightly refrigerated around 60° to improve initial absorption of dissolved oxygen in the water thus drawing out the life in the compost, humus, guano, and kelp. Between 8 PM to 8 AM, the night time temperature is 75-85°F for those 12 hours. The warmer air being diffused through it with the airstone will cause the water to increase in temperature, but it shouldn't exceed 80°F At this point I'm going to use the tea on my plants to avoid continuing to let it possibly colonize further under warmer conditions, when there might be reduced effectiveness of aeration and possibly lower populations of microbes or failure to foam up and activate.
When i start a larger or more concentrated batch in the future it will continue for 48 hours. Then, I'll be drenching the soil by double-cup method of feeding: nesting perforated cup inside a solid bottom cup then top-feeding tea, to saturate the cups.
But to start out, I'm using my 2L mister to slowly water the tea on to the mykos wp around the plant stalks dissolving it and inoculating the plants. This will be done without nozzle and applying low compression by hand on the mister so as not to harm the bacteria or tear any fungal strands that may have formed in the tea.
With about 1 qt stretching to 10, I'll have enough tea to dilute and hydrate the entire 36 qts of media to field capacity at 40% in theory.
I'll apply ~1 tsp/ qt of mykos wettable powder around the base of each plant and water it in with diluted tea. Also, they have a granular and root pack versions of it that are 10g of mykos inoculant in a pouch to be planted below the roots. One assumes, in a hydroponic/ hydroton media and the roots are supposed to grow into the packaging. I've read that mykos should be in direct contact with roots in order to colonize. I'm going to add the powder gradually on schedule with feedings. So far, this potting mix is dry and has loose vermiculite at the top after getting an adequate amount of plain water to cover the roots with new media during transplant (Recall that was nearly bare roots to remove seed starter mix. No pictures, but they all had healthy roots and i think they're all in good condition. Some had more roots than leaves. I think it was the fish & seaweed formula that did that.
 
Kocham Bonety, ale przesadziłam z ilością owoców na małych krzakach i teraz jak dojrzewają to wszystkie leża gałązki nie otrzymały ich., ten rok jest dla nich stracony.
 

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http://imgur.com/6T0tZ45
Purple and blue spectrum lights.
Fanning them occasionally. Still heavy and damp from the AACT. I'm not pushing them to grow the most. I just want to let them get firmly rooted in to the full depth of the large cups before they get regular fan/ wind and sun exposure. Maybe the periodic fanning will stimulate the plants to anchor their stems more firmly in the new media. I haven't inoculated with Mykos WP yet. The rootzone is still wet. So, i'll probably wait until Monday to water that in. I may bubble AACT this week too. I think I remember it being acidic, but i dont have a pH kit.
 
One day before scheduled feeding. This is the second week inoculating with myco powder, and my third week brewing tea for them. Last time they got it undiluted, and they look healthy. The first batch was diluted ~1:2 but no regular water since the last transplant. Still top-feeding slowly and gently. I think it makes sense to increase the feed volume in order to water more deeply and ensure the wetting front reaches the bottom of the cups. The plants have been getting periodic air movement from the fan at certain times. They appear to be well-anchored in the media now.
http://imgur.com/V3doQif
http://imgur.com/hlhIZ2A
 
Oh ya... the fan comes on with the lights, and i changed its position 90°. Also, last night, I removed bottom leaves on some plants where they were small and drooping down near topsoil. This facilitates watering and fresh air exchange.
 
Last night, some of the plants were already drying out*. I knew I didn't water deeply enough when I only used a quart of AACT (i was out of RO water and decided to let it ride on the shallow feed). With their roots beginning to fill the cups, the water uptake is much faster. This morning, I watered 5 plants that needed it. Another batch of tea will be ready tomorrow morning, and then I'll feed all of them.
* http://imgur.com/VHJqxF9
 
On friday (3 days ago) I topped all of them by minimal pruning of the new growth tips. They had 7-10 leaf sets. I didn't remove any large leaves. Up until this point, only a few of the lower leaves have naturally senesced from being shaded out by upper canopy. Lights still at 60 and 90 degree angles. I set up a reflective backboard. The back row of plants has responded well. I change the fan direction every couple of days.
Tomorrow, they get fed with tea. For the past week, they are not on a firm watering schedule. I've been watering more frequently and selectively by reading leaves and lifting pots.
Also, temperatures are suddenly 10 degrees cooler (65-85°F). It's better for brewing AACT. And -with the lights set for 3 AM- they get a significant "negative DIF" effect (keeping the node spacing short).
 
Why thank you.
Some cups have not yet been top dressed with vermiculite. For them (a few at a time), I have been adding the remaining compost from tea, then covering with verm. I add another layer when I see mycellium colonizing the top.
 
http://imgur.com/8Or0iF7

15 plants that have been repotted to 1 gal cloth pot are Bubble Gum 7, Bonda Mahala, Majacque, 7 Pot, Primo, x Douglah, & Bahama Goat.
Four plants are still in 1qt foam cups: 7 Pot, BBG7, Funky Yellow,

then there are five plants that were less-than ideal, or the least preferred of a group during transplanting they were placed outside into a planter (not pictured).
 
EDIT repotted 1 gallon plants in earlier picture include SB7J, also Scotch Brain 7 Pot Pheno,
and Devil's Tongue

http://imgur.com/x67ClBG

Devil's Tongue, Scotch Bonnet Jamaian Long, (2 each of Bahama Goat, 7 Pot Primo, 7 Pot Barrackpore).
3 solo cups: Scotch Bonnet TFM and 2 Bonda Ma Jacques.

Devil's Tongue and Bahama Goat appear to have been consistently the most vigorous plants out of the full selection.
Scotch Bonnet Jamaican Long gets an honorable mention.
 
I'm just taking a minute to embed the same old photos I had already posted links to, (since I'm using a laptop, not on mobile).
 
VHJqxF9.jpg

8Or0iF7.jpg

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Supercups
EIMlZzc.jpg

 
SB MOA i put outside with 6 others.
cklvRCS.jpg
 
The 7 outdoor plants I mentioned. While repotting, I decided that they were not up to standard. Mostly their stalks were not well supported compared to their counterparts. They are actually doing very well. So, I may have been rash in my actions, but I needed to thin their numbers anyway. Not enough cloth pots or sq ft light footprint. It was about a week ago I transplanted them outside by the walk. Getting a few days of cold here, so I watered them this morning, and I'll cover them tonight.
My indoor containers are 29:
(3 each of) Bahama Goat, Bonda Ma Jacques, 7 Pot Primo, 7 Pot Barrrackpore
(2) Dorset Naga, Devil's Tongue, BBG7, SB7J, 7 Pot
(1) Bonda Mahala, 7 Pot Douglah x, Scotch Bonnet Jamaican Long, SB MOA, SB TFM, Scotch Brains (7 Pot pheno), Funky Yellow
 
Your plants look great. I'm in Florida also and it took me a little more than one year for my Bonda Ma Jacques to grow and produce. I managed to almost kill it two/three times. Everyone says Peppers are easy to grow, but I don't think so.
Looking forward to more pics. Keep up the great work.
 
XcchpZB.jpg

Last night the temperature went down to 42F where I left the plants on the porch.
When the lights came on, some of the plants had very limp leaves and some of them had whole ends of main stems that had lost their turgidity and appeared to wilt. I watered some of the plants with cool water. I didn't want to use really warm water, and I didn't want to bother with warming up water slightly, as its good and clean but cold.
Those affected recovered by the time it was 55F maybe around 11am maybe? Tonight, when the timer for the LED light shut off, I topped a couple of side shoots with small tips in spots that already had enough leaves in the area of the top canopy that -i feel like- has a more evenly distributed and penetrating light focus on all the plants tops that are growing into the light. They also get some sun from the south window of the porch. The plants had the effect that outer plants were more exposed to the invading cold ambient air exposure. And I did move the Devil's Tongue, which I didn't water, into the bathroom. The plant was/is a healthy transplant in a Superoots pot. It was a plant that was maybe  more shocked or didn't warm up as quickly as the others during the day. It took longer to recover from the being exposed to the chilling overnight. But I was able to warm it up quickly indoors. It is getting good light behind the other peppers in cups and spinach i have started. I will probably move it back to the porch.
The forecast is a better range for plant growth for the next few days. I think they are safe from any danger of continued cold stress. I'm hopeful that all of the plants will survive and develop some tolerance to cold weather.
I was reading that chilling injury is compounded with plant dehydration and necrotic spots at low temperatures. I read it can take a few days to fully present its symptoms and apparent damage done to the plant. 
Tonight is also cold, 47F now and supposed to go down to 41F. I have pointed a space heater at the bottom of the table to keep the plants warm overnight.
 
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