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tutorial All about soil - A great resource I thought I would share

I always figured compost would make my mix too "muddy" texturally but i understand the other benefits. I'm aiming to have a mostly inert mix fertilizer-wise (I know loam carries some). Where I live we usually get a very soggy/cold June and that's where i find my mixes to sponge all kinds of water and the plants become sickly.

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CanadaChili said:
I always figured compost would make my mix too "muddy" texturally but i understand the other benefits. I'm aiming to have a mostly inert mix fertilizer-wise (I know loam carries some). Where I live we usually get a very soggy/cold June and that's where i find my mixes to sponge all kinds of water and the plants become sickly.

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 I think we might be close to opposite sides of the globe and the weather spectrum. :party:
 
Hot and dry over here . Today , MID-WINTER , we have a bit of a heatwave , 20 Celsius minimum and 31 Celsius maximum.
 
Enjoy the grow.
 
CanadaChili said:
I hate to necro this thread but I'm relatively new to customizing soil mixes. In the past i would have settled for only promix general purpose for example and would encounter drainage issues throughout the summer. I'm looking to create something that is light, yet has some capacity to hold onto nutrients that I'll be supplementing myself. Would this mix offer adequate drainage?

1 part peat moss
1 part perlite
1 part topsoil/loam
Thanks in advance!

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Is this for containers or raised beds?
 
If it's for containers, then topsoil has no place.  If it's for raised beds, then yes.
 
It's much better to use small amounts of compost or composted manure in containers.  Something on the order of 5%.  It REALLY doesn't take much.  And if you want a great performing mix, that works well for containers in just about any condition, then make it something like this:
 
7 parts coco coir or peat moss
3 parts perlite
1 part compost, vermicompost, or composted manure
 
And that's it.  You're done.
You can also take the above mix, and add up to 50% pine bark fines.  Just helps extend the mix a bit further, without sacrificing the properties that you are looking for.
 
solid7 said:
 
Is this for containers or raised beds?
 
If it's for containers, then topsoil has no place.  If it's for raised beds, then yes.
 
It's much better to use small amounts of compost or composted manure in containers.  Something on the order of 5%.  It REALLY doesn't take much.  And if you want a great performing mix, that works well for containers in just about any condition, then make it something like this:
 
7 parts coco coir or peat moss
3 parts perlite
1 part compost, vermicompost, or composted manure
 
And that's it.  You're done.
You can also take the above mix, and add up to 50% pine bark fines.  Just helps extend the mix a bit further, without sacrificing the properties that you are looking for.
Click to expand...
It'll be for 5 gallon containers. Thank you so much for the advice again.

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This will be the first year I'm planting in fabric pots.  My proposed soil mix (per 7 gallon pot):
 
Vigoro garden soil: 1/2 bag (0.5 cu.ft)
Coco coir: 1/2 brick expanded ~ 0.3 cu.ft
Black Kow compost: 1/4 bag (0.25 cu.ft)
dolomitic lime: 2 cups  ~1.5 pounds
course perlite: 1/5 bag (0.10 cu.ft)
vermiculite: 1/10 bag (0.05 cu.ft)
greensand: 1/2 cup
azomite 1/2 cup
biochar 1/8 gallon  2 cups
earthworm castings 1/2 cup

These amendments are subject to variability in amount, but probably not more than 1-2 Tbsp each to start, erring on the side of too little versus too much.
kelp meal
blood meal
bone meal
humic acid
myco granules
 
Thoughts?  This is definitely the kitchen sink approach, but I want to make the most of what season I have left here in Florida and set the plants up to be in a good spot for overwintering.
 
Way too heavy, especially down here. Get rid of black cow and Vigoro. Potting soil shouldn't go in containers.
 
solid7 said:
Way too heavy, especially down here. Get rid of black cow and Vigoro. Potting soil shouldn't go in containers.
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My thinking was that these are fabric bags, the entire surface will be exposed so evaporation will be a concern.  The coir, perlite and greensand are measures against compaction and will end up being about 50% of the volume for each fabric pot.
 
For my next transplant, seedlings/young plants will be going from half pint plastic cups (containing MG seed starting mix) into quart size styrofoam cups with many small holes punched in the bottom & sides for air pruning. I'm going to use these materials:
8 qt. MG sphagnum
8 qt. MG perlite
6.6 qt. Better Gro premium grade orchid moss
8 qt. Better Gro orchid bark
4 qt. Sta Green vermiculite
I think it will be a very friable mix, with various pore sizes and balanced structure.
 
I'm sure that it will be good, but it will be unnecessarily complex and expensive...

It's really hard to beat a base of perlite or Coco, mixed with perlite. (apprx 75/25)
 
Also, everything labeled MG has fertilizer in it, including the perlite. I'm guessing that you're ok with that, though...
 
solid7 said:
Also, everything labeled MG has fertilizer in it, including the perlite. I'm guessing that you're ok with that, though...
Click to expand...
What's funny is the perlite contains more fertilizer than the sphagnum. I think this mix will promote strong root growth in containers. The orchid products should last over a year, retaining their structural properties through several more pot-ups before degrading into humus.
 
equal parts of Coir , Compost and Sand . to this add 20 percent vermicompost and 2 TBsp of Neem cake and Bone Meal ,,, Afterwards Foliar Spray of balanched 1:1:1 npk at 1/2 strength 
 
I mixed blood meal into my potting mix to keep the rabbits away. 100% effective. Now the big problem is that my dogs have become really interested in "aerating" the soil.
 
jonassx100 said:
equal parts of Coir , Compost and Sand . to this add 20 percent vermicompost and 2 TBsp of Neem cake and Bone Meal ,,, Afterwards Foliar Spray of balanched 1:1:1 npk at 1/2 strength 
Click to expand...
 
Sounds like a recipe for muck to me.  There's no aeration and drainage component in there.  Bone meal in containers won't break down fast enough to do anything, and it's a bit dodgy stuff, as you don't know the health of the animals that it's sourced from.
 
That recipe that you posted is an absolute no for outdoor plants, and an expert level mix for indoor use. (knowing how to water it, and keeping the humidity dialed in lab grade)
 
solid7 said:
 
Is this for containers or raised beds?
 
If it's for containers, then topsoil has no place.  If it's for raised beds, then yes.
 
It's much better to use small amounts of compost or composted manure in containers.  Something on the order of 5%.  It REALLY doesn't take much.  And if you want a great performing mix, that works well for containers in just about any condition, then make it something like this:
 
7 parts coco coir or peat moss
3 parts perlite
1 part compost, vermicompost, or composted manure
 
And that's it.  You're done.
You can also take the above mix, and add up to 50% pine bark fines.  Just helps extend the mix a bit further, without sacrificing the properties that you are looking for.
Click to expand...
I'm going to use this mix for my transplants soon. I've got a mess of DR. Earth's tomato, veg., and herb dry fert. on hand. It's organic and 4-6-3. Just wondering how much you'd reccomend per each 7 gallon fabric pot? I'm guessing about 8 oz. should do the trick. Also, does this mix need any garden lime to stabilize the PH? I'm growing superhots.
 
Thanks in advance!
 
No  more than a half cup. (on the Dr Earth)
.
I had to edit this, because I failed to note that you are talking about the mix that I recommended.
.
I use ground eggshell, because it's cheaper, and more available to me.  Sun dried for a week, and then use a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.  1/2 cup per 5 gallons.  
.
For a full up potting mix, I like to mix the above recipe, 50/50 with pine bark fines.  
 
Is seedling orchid bark (1/4 inch pieces) a valid substitute for pine bark fines? I can't seem to find the latter at any of the stores around here; only products vaguely labeled as "forest bark" (Including said orchid bark).
 
I potted up a nursery pepper in a 50/50 blend of a peat-based potting mix and the aforementioned orchid bark, and the plant is doing fairly well, being the only one in my yard that's fruiting heavily, though it has started to demonstrate a worrisome trait of its leaves wilting, shriveling, then falling off starting from the bottom up despite watering it in moderation.
 
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