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pests Aphids AND Mites: Best mode of attack?
- Thread starter Roguejim
- Start date
I know that I have been pushing AACT for this, but I have been finding that Dawn Dish soap and water is working very well. And my soil seems to be OK.
Saposedly Dawn is Biodegradeable.
Saposedly Dawn is Biodegradeable.
I know we want to stay as organic as possible BUT last month I had aphids bad tried everything I knew. I good person on thp gave me the answer. Macho 2.0 is the best for a last resort. One month later my plants are back green and blowing up with podlits. I treated the soil first then both sides of each leaf and stem. I thought my season was saved by this stuff. Thank you to a person we all know.
Are arethroid mites the same as broad mites?Trippa said:
I guess I'm assuming I have broad mites since the guy at Grange Co Op said I didn't have spider mites. Not a logical conclusion, I know. Maybe I can take a leaf sample into the local hydro/canna*is shop. You'd think they might have a way to tell for sure? Anyway, I came across this supposed remedy for your consideration. It is a canna*is site.
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https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=268311
Â96strat said:
macho is just imidicloprid.
its important to note the active ingredients, as there are hundreds of products containing this ingrediant, just in differing concentrations, and mediums.
Pyrethrin is organic, works on every bug, can be used up to day of harvest (wash fruits off, of course) and really cheap.
Bonide concentrate for me.
45 ml to 128 oz water
22.5 ml to 64 oz water
11.25 ml to 32 oz water
5 1/2 ml to 16 oz water
You can round up to the next whole ml.
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Spray once--top, bottom, undersides, inside flowers.
Repeat in a week to get the hatchlings.
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Never fails.
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Of course, inside plants need to be done outside--as it IS a poison.
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I have tried just about every "natural" bug killer, from Diatomacious earth to lemon grass oil, soaps and plain water spray.
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The only one that ever worked every time is pyrethrin.
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Except for fungus gnats.
They get mosquito dunks.
Also "organic".
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If you are wary of BT toxin (mosquito dunks contain the Bacillus thuringiensis bacteria) you shouldn't be.
It's in the vast majority of corn products and by products you eat every day.
Just about everything contains a corn derivative---from meal, starch, oil and syrup.
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But if you are avoiding it, don't use dunks.
pyrethrin is a joke with respect to mites.
it only kills adults, and is not translaminar/local systemic, meaning it cannot kill infestations on the undersides of leaves, when sprayed to the tops of leaves. this means you have to spray very very carefully, catching every single leafs underside. furthermore, since it does not kill the eggs, you must respray like every three days at a minimum, in the same manner, so as to kill the hatching mites prior to their reproduction stages.
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its a contact insecticide, so once it rains, its gone, and you must respray.
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at best its a knockdown acharicide.
its very difficult to wipe out mites with pyrethrin. you must spray it in a preventative manner weekly or more, or once infested, spray bi weekly etc.
it might be good for some of the less aggressive mites, but not for the two spotted mites, and the red mites i get around here in houston.
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its too expensive as well... concentrates are like 100 bucks a gallon. dilution is like 1:50 which is sad.
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100 bucks will buy you a quart of name brand abamectin, which will dilute as recommended to almost 1,000 gallons, and treat something like 100 acres.Â
it only kills adults, and is not translaminar/local systemic, meaning it cannot kill infestations on the undersides of leaves, when sprayed to the tops of leaves. this means you have to spray very very carefully, catching every single leafs underside. furthermore, since it does not kill the eggs, you must respray like every three days at a minimum, in the same manner, so as to kill the hatching mites prior to their reproduction stages.
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its a contact insecticide, so once it rains, its gone, and you must respray.
Â
at best its a knockdown acharicide.
its very difficult to wipe out mites with pyrethrin. you must spray it in a preventative manner weekly or more, or once infested, spray bi weekly etc.
it might be good for some of the less aggressive mites, but not for the two spotted mites, and the red mites i get around here in houston.
Â
its too expensive as well... concentrates are like 100 bucks a gallon. dilution is like 1:50 which is sad.
Â
100 bucks will buy you a quart of name brand abamectin, which will dilute as recommended to almost 1,000 gallons, and treat something like 100 acres.Â
i think you misunderstand. im saying, when you are telling folks what works for you, its important to note the actual ingrediant, as many folks will not be able to buy Macho, but will be able to purchase other imidicloprid products.96strat said:
ÂCayennemist said:
Bronner's Peppermint is my go to, I've heard good things about Dawn as well. I try to follow with AACT, and avoid repeated applications re: potential to degrade waxy cuticle, though I haven't much backing on that one, it's more of a hunch until I find something concrete.
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ÂRoguejim said:
I've had great result with neem, though handling/preparation and source are very important. I would never trust a pre-packaged/mixed concotion. This is conjecture, but I am pretty sure it is just value-added production to use up the spent oil after the Azadirachtin is extracted for Azamax/Azatrol, etc. Azadirachtin levels can vary from 0 - 15000 ppm depending on the source, hence, always a good idea put in a little research leg work. Clackamas Coot has one of the best run-downs on Neem, from quality sources to proper preparation of spray solution. If you're already on ICmag it shouldn't be hard to find, though Snype does a pretty good intro in the linked thread.