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Darkgreen's first chili plant glog - 2015

Good day and welcome to my glog 2015 :)
 
This is my first official chili plant grow log. I've decided to keep this log because i think it will be mutually beneficial to compare experience and knowledge on the subject of chili growing. It is a hobby i've had since summer 2008. I've grown a number of different chili's with different traits, from habanero's to fluorescent purple's. My method has always been a simple windowsill garden at a sunny window. I've tried different kinds of soil mixes and fertilizers but never really conducted any experiments to compare one fertilizer from another. This grow log is not going to differ in that aspect, however, i'm going to try cross breeding for the first time. Not to try and beat the heat, but just for the fun of it. Ultimately i hope to breed some fertile funky phenotypes with, and perhaps with time stabilize and refine certain strains - but that's somewhere in the future. If i succeed, this glog marks the beginning of that endavour =)
 
 
Varieties
  • Carolina Reaper
  • Pimenta De Neyde
  • Pink Tiger
  • Czechoslovakian Black
  • Habanero Dulce
 
Equipment list
Germination
  • Glass of tap water
Sprouting
Soil mixes
  • Peat based none-fertalized soil mix for sprouting
  • Peat based fertalized soil mix for growing
  • Vermiculite
  • Perlite
  • Leca nuts
Additives
  • SuperThrive
  • GHE pH-down
Fertilizers
  • GHE Micro (Hard water)  NPK = 5 0 1
  • GHE Bloom                     NPK =  0 5 4
  • GHE Ripen                      NPK = 0 6 5
Additional tools
Light Source
  • The sun
 
Comments:
The combi moisture/temperature/pH-meter is a cheap thing from eBay that i'm yet to recieve. I dont expect it to be precise, but i can compare it with some standard pH indicator strips, and do hope its at least indicative for something. The Caliber III Hygrometer doesnt look like much, but it's by far the most precise hygrometer i've ever had. It reacts rapidly: just by touching it, or blowing on it, the rH and T changes. Highly recommendable. They are rather expensive, but you can find them on ebay or aliexpress at a discount. I havn't tried SuperThrive before, but recently I've sadly seen some experiments with SuperThrive actually showing that it doesn't work any miracles. However, money it spent, so i might aswell add a bit of it. Regarding the choise of fertilizer: i do have some GT Chili Focus, but i like that i'm able to fine tune the NPK value by using the GHE products. I plan on starting very mildly with 3:1 or 2:1 ratio of GHE Micro and GHE Bloom to help foliar growth. At one point i'll switch to a 1:1 ratio (NPK = 5 5 5), and in the end use something heavy on the P and K side, to increase flowering and fruit development. I've chosen GHE simply because i have it in the house. I do however contemtplate using GHE BioThrive instead, because it is organic. It comes as a two part series also enabling fine-tuning.
 
I recently moved to a new place, and i've now got a 4m wide windowsill facing towards the sun. Just outside that, i got a balcony 5m wide, on which i plan to have a small greenhouse towards one of the ends. It has been a couple of very nice sunny days, and i happened to measure the light intensity in my windowsill at 80-90000 lux, which is rather intense. I might have to find some white curtains to shield the plants on the sunny days, but lets see how they handle it =).
 
Lastly i have a small comment on my sprouts. One of the Carolina Reapers happen to have three cotylodon leafs. I'll keep an extra eye on that one, and see if it also develops three sets of true leafs :)
 
If anyone have any suggestions, comments or questions, please feel free to write. Cheers.
 
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Darkgreen said:
... ecto mycorrhizae is not at all capable of forming any symbiosis with plants such as chili's. Rather they actually prevent the endo mycorrhizae to establish a colony.

I came upon an article where they actually determined that endo mycorrhizae is only symbiotic in nature when the P value of the soil is below 25ppm. At a P value of 25ppm the roots stop benefitting from the colony and at ppm above 30 the relation was rather parasitic in nature...
 
Can you post references for these articles?
 
Darkgreen said:
So...
 
Just ordered a 100W CREE-XP-G2 natural light led bulb with active cooling, heatsink and 90degree lens.
 
And yes, it was quite pricy..^^
Likewise,  link to the specs for this lamp would be appreciated.  I look forward to seeing it installed.
 
 
Sawyer said:
 
Can you post references for these articles?
 
Likewise,  link to the specs for this lamp would be appreciated.  I look forward to seeing it installed.
 
 
 
Link for articles:
P concentration
Ecto and Endo 
 
Link for light:
Led light from aliexpress
 
Do notice, that the chip in that bulb is actually Cree XT-E, which is inferior to XP-G and XP-G2. I had a conversation with the seller (Felix Su), and arranged that my led bulb came with the XP-G2 chip.
 
 
Link to XT-E data sheet (with light spectrum)
Link to XP-G2 data sheet
 
Do please compare these two spectrums. I think you'd agree that the XP-G2 Natural white has a spectrum much more similar to the light absorption spectrum for photosynthesis.
 
Those Cree chips should run at actual 100 +-5W, producing almost 110lumen/w as long as the chip is below 85degC. Most cheap led modules set at 100W run at significantly lower power, and are significantly less effective. Below that temp it's more efficient. I look forward to test them with my light meter :)
 
Cool.  Thanks for the links.  I was able to download both of those papers from my local library.  Nice-looking lamp.  I have a bunch of 1000lm/10W warm and cool white LED packages, but they need heat-sinking to operate.  I've got an idea, but haven't built anything yet.  100lm/W is sort of a bench mark for acceptability for me.  Last year Cree announced a 300lm/W white LED.  I think those are pricey, too.
 
Update 1/4-2015
 
4 announcements:
 
 
1: The 100W XP-G2 light bulb is on its way, yey =)
 
 
 
2: Noticed that also some of the Czechoslovakian Blacks started to produce curly leaves. This made me draw the conclusion that i had begun fertilizing too soon, so i flushed them quite a lot. Most of them look to be growing out of their mutations.
 
 
3: The Endo Mycorrhizae i had ordered finally arrived. (TNC MycorrEndo). Due to the articles i've read warning about the use of mycorrhizae when having phosphor values above 25ppm, i only applied the MycorrEndo to about half of my plants: 2 of 4 reapers, 2 of 3 pimenta's, 1 of 2 hab. dulce, 1 of 2 pink tigers, and 2 of....4 Czech's. You have to apply the MycorrEndo directly to the roots, and put some in the hole where you insert the rootball. The plants weren't big enough to transplant to richer soil, so what i did was to "re-pot" them in the same soil. 
 
These ones were the guinea pigs
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4: I made myself a quite nicely working spectrophotometer with which i can study the color spectrum of the grow light (or other light sources). Here are the instructions and here is the website for calibration and measuring
 
 
Warm white CFL bulb
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Warm white LED
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The LED spectrum doesn't look as expected. I've tried to fix it but havn't had success so far. I need to measure other types of LED's to see if i get a comparable spectrum. Otherwise, maybe this led just has a wierd spectrum? Who knows...
 
That was it for now. Cheers, and thanks for following.
 
If you have any questions, please leave a comment and i'll answer asap =)
 
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