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fertilizer Fertilizer Dilution...

ELCouz said:
 
I read that there is a few days (< week) of shelf life before the mix turn nasty for plants.
 
My water container is 121L or 32G. I calculated this is enough for at least 4 watering with a drip system.
 
 
Algae and other stuff love the same nutrients unfortunately.
 
I didn't try this yet (premix), take all my saying are based of what I read around.
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No.  Not true with just premix.  There is nothing biodegradable in the CNS17, so it stays stable for quite a while. (I won't say indefinitely)  As far as algae, that's up to you to prevent it from going bad.  If you get a 55 gallon poly, it will not only keep algae from growing - no light - but it will also do an amazing job of keeping the temperature down, even in direct sunlight.  Provided you don't introduce some kind of algae through your water.  Now, if you recirculate, that's another issue.  You're going to have PH swings from picking up decomposing matter in the potting mix, and dumping it back to tank.  But you're not doing that.  In fact, i thought we were discussing a metered inline distribution?
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Now, if you use an organic nutrient, premixing is an absolute no-no.
 
 
ELCouz said:
Thanks guys!  :thumbsup:
 
 
What do you mean by overrun? I can't use DTW if it's what your are talking about... garden is already there with the soil waiting to get plants in May ^_^
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Overrun is when you saturate the media, and then let some of it run out to waste.  It is sort of a way of "flushing" progressively, rather than waiting for salts to accumulate.  You can capture it, and use it, elsewhere, if you choose. (just don't recirculate it)
 
solid7 said:
Now, if you recirculate, that's another issue.  You're going to have PH swings from picking up decomposing matter in the potting mix, and dumping it back to tank.  But you're not doing that.  In fact, i thought we were discussing a metered inline distribution?
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I haven't yet designed the garden watering system (still snow and cold outside) but i'm in the process of gathering knowledge and parts. I'm open to suggestion. I planned to inject inline the nutes but since you explained me that the CNS17 will not degrade and turn into slime then your premix option is looking like a winning bid :)
 
solid7 said:
Overrun is when you saturate the media, and then let some of it run out to waste.  It is sort of a way of "flushing" progressively, rather than waiting for salts to accumulate.  You can capture it, and use it, elsewhere, if you choose. (just don't recirculate it)
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Understood that part but I don't know how to explain it but my garden is a "dumb & simple" garden. I cannot recirculate neither calculate waste since waste is going in the earth where the soil lays on it. Definitively not hydro, where pots are isolated from each other. There is no pots :)...

Sorry if I am not clear, I try my best to write in English ^_^
 
Powelly said:
Personally I'd make a wicking bed with a huge reservoir 
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I'd make a smaller wicking bucket, and run the nutes right into the bottom.  Once every few days.
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And by "I would do that", what I really mean is, "I do that".  LOL
 
ELCouz said:
I haven't yet designed the garden watering system (still snow and cold outside) but i'm in the process of gathering knowledge and parts. I'm open to suggestion. I planned to inject inline the nutes but since you explained me that the CNS17 will not degrade and turn into slime then your premix option is looking like a winning bid :)
 

Understood that part but I don't know how to explain it but my garden is a "dumb & simple" garden. I cannot recirculate neither calculate waste since waste is going in the earth where the soil lays on it. Definitively not hydro, where pots are isolated from each other. There is no pots :)...

Sorry if I am not clear, I try my best to write in English ^_^
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Wait... so you're draining your waste into earth below, or you are fertigating into earth?

Yes, these things are important to know.
 
Yeah but he said he is going on holiday for a few weeks so topping it up once every few days defeats the point
 
Powelly said:
Yeah but he said he is going on holiday for a few weeks so topping it up once every few days defeats the point
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Topping it up?  I don't think that was ever suggested...  Certainly not by me.
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If you meant the idea about the smaller buckets, my suggestion was meant to complement the inline fertilizer on an automatic timer.
 
solid7 said:
so you're draining your waste into earth below
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This ^^^

I read more into injecting fertilizer inline with tap water to water the plants.... I've seen drawbacks...
 
  • No pH control (well this is expensive to monitor and inject the right pH down concentration)
  • Fertilizer fluctuation if flow rate is changed (ex: clogged drip emitters, or drop of tap water pressure)
  • Chlorine feed directly to plants
 
The 32G container I use is for letting the chlorine evaporate since my tap water contains high amount of it. (can smell it)
 
I already have an irrigation pump in the container (which I currently manually fill with a hose) which distribute the water to the plants by emitters.
 
I though of adding a low level float and high level float to automatically fill it completely when water is low then a mini-pump will pour X amount of CNS17 into the container. Ready for next use!
 
 
Powelly said:
Personally I'd make a wicking bed with a huge reservoir 
Click to expand...
 
I like this idea however expensive and require time to build (might move out in 2 years, kind of thing you built and leave there).
 
Irrigation system is already in place the only thing missing is the automation.
 
solid7 said:
 
Topping it up?  I don't think that was ever suggested...  Certainly not by me.
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If you meant the idea about the smaller buckets, my suggestion was meant to complement the inline fertilizer on an automatic timer.
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My point is that mechanical systems break so if you're going away for a long time it is safer (and cheaper) to rely on a system with no mechanical parts
 
Powelly said:
 
My point is that mechanical systems break so if you're going away for a long time it is safer (and cheaper) to rely on a system with no mechanical parts
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Agreed, but what size wicking bed are you proposing, and how long do you think it will function without being refilled?  Have you had any prior experience with wicking systems?
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I have a dozen large wicking containers - they are more reservoir than potting mix - and in the heat of summer, I find them needing to be refilled every 5-6 days, typically.
 
ELCouz said:
This ^^^

I read more into injecting fertilizer inline with tap water to water the plants.... I've seen drawbacks...
 
  • No pH control (well this is expensive to monitor and inject the right pH down concentration)
  • Fertilizer fluctuation if flow rate is changed (ex: clogged drip emitters, or drop of tap water pressure)
  • Chlorine feed directly to plants
 
The 32G container I use is for letting the chlorine evaporate since my tap water contains high amount of it. (can smell it)
 
I already have an irrigation pump in the container (which I currently manually fill with a hose) which distribute the water to the plants by emitters.
 
I though of adding a low level float and high level float to automatically fill it completely when water is low then a mini-pump will pour X amount of CNS17 into the container. Ready for next use!
 
Click to expand...
 
If your water is anywhere above neutral, I don't think you'll need to PH the nutrient solution, using CNS17 Grow.  (I don't - it mixes with my water right at 6.9)  But don't take my word for it.  Buy it, and try it.  You aren't going to be re-using the nutrient, so it doesn't have to be laboratory precision.
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You will always have to worry about clogged emitters with any system, whether fertigated, or not.
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And chlorine...  Really not a concern.  I know that everyone and their dog thinks that city water kills everything.  But seriously... your parents and grandparents before them, all used tap water in their gardens.  I use tap water, and I've showed you my plants.  Mine isn't just chlorinated water - it's chloraminated water.  And yet, my plants thrive...
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Having a premix container is really the best way.  If you had an inline, OK, but I always prefer a reservoir, myself.  I'm old school, though.
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Not to be rude, but you gotta stop thinking so much, and start putting something together.  Many others have already gone before you - you aren't breaking any new ground.  You will be fine. ;)
 
solid7 said:
 
If your water is anywhere above neutral, I don't think you'll need to PH the nutrient solution, using CNS17 Grow.  (I don't - it mixes with my water right at 6.9)  But don't take my word for it.  Buy it, and try it.  You aren't going to be re-using the nutrient, so it doesn't have to be laboratory precision.
.
You will always have to worry about clogged emitters with any system, whether fertigated, or not.
.
And chlorine...  Really not a concern.  I know that everyone and their dog thinks that city water kills everything.  But seriously... your parents and grandparents before them, all used tap water in their gardens.  I use tap water, and I've showed you my plants.  Mine isn't just chlorinated water - it's chloraminated water.  And yet, my plants thrive...
.
Having a premix container is really the best way.  If you had an inline, OK, but I always prefer a reservoir, myself.  I'm old school, though.
.
Not to be rude, but you gotta stop thinking so much, and start putting something together.  Many others have already gone before you - you aren't breaking any new ground.  You will be fine. ;)
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Thanks...answered all my questions. I will report back my work in May ;)
 
solid7 said:
 
Agreed, but what size wicking bed are you proposing, and how long do you think it will function without being refilled?  Have you had any prior experience with wicking systems?
.
I have a dozen large wicking containers - they are more reservoir than potting mix - and in the heat of summer, I find them needing to be refilled every 5-6 days, typically.
Click to expand...
 
100L should be adequate
Cover the top of the grow bed with plastic and seal it off to stop excess evaporation
 
I highly doubt that a plant would use 100L of water in a month. I give mine 2L of water each per week in standard pots, most of this is runoff or evaporation 
 
Powelly said:
 
100L should be adequate
Cover the top of the grow bed with plastic and seal it off to stop excess evaporation
 
I highly doubt that a plant would use 100L of water in a month. I give mine 2L of water each per week in standard pots, most of this is runoff or evaporation 
Click to expand...
 
 
I definitely have to water way more than 2L per week.
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I don't typically cover my sub-irrigated planters, as I like to be able to let the rain help me skip a watering or three. (we get a lot of rain) 
 
Powelly said:
 
100L should be adequate
Cover the top of the grow bed with plastic and seal it off to stop excess evaporation
 
I highly doubt that a plant would use 100L of water in a month. I give mine 2L of water each per week in standard pots, most of this is runoff or evaporation 
Click to expand...
 
For a plant I agree 100L is plenty but a full garden with at least 24 plants... not enough!
 
Powelly said:
 
Cover the top of the grow bed with plastic and seal it off to stop excess evaporation
Click to expand...
 
Wouldn't that made the soil grow fungi/mold if you keep it without light and always humid?
 
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