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It's official - I'm using different lights next year

To me, there are two things that count when using lighting to grow plants indoors - their efficacy in promoting growth and the cost to operate them. After this year of trying various things, I know what I will do.

Use 20-watt, 2700K CFL lights. Five of them will easily cover 6 square feet (4 foot by 18 inches) if I use white siding. That means 100 watts per hour. Using four 40-watt regular flourescents using 160 watts per hour but only covers 5.25 sq./ft.

I've seen the difference in the lights. I had four plants that have languished for six weeks; anemic with next to no growth. Four days under one bulb and they have regained their color and grown 25 percent.

I'm convinced the PAR (Photosynthetic Activity Radiation) emitted by these lamps makes them the best choice for the cost per watt. They also produce enough heat that if placed in a closed container would negate the need for a different heat source.

In my idyllic scenario, my grow box will be six feet tall, four feet wide and 18 inches deep (though I might go two feet deep). It will have two shelves, ones that are on rollers so I can pull them out like drawers. The shelving will be adjustable from inches to feet. Three of the four walls will be stationary, but it will have two doors that can be opened from the front.

There would be enough room to sow more than 500 seeds or raise at least six full size plants - depending on the type of plants.

Rather than using chains to suspend the lights, they will be affixed to boards that will rest on dowels spaced two inches apart.

If this all works, I'm contacting AJ's Garden Center and see if the owner would like blue prints!

Mike
 
Sounds like a plan Mike...you have put some thought into this...

I am planning on adding some lights to my 4 X 4 grow box...why couldn't I add the 20 Watt CFLs on the sides to give more light. From what I have read, the down side of using fluorescents is the penetration power...so if I keep the shop light fixtures above as they currently are and augment with CFLs mounted on the sides, wouldn't that work for a better "spread" of light....

Is this what you are talking about?

http://www.buylighting.com/20-Watt-10-000-Hour-Compact-Fluorescent-2700K-Warm-p/nl-20127.htm

If so, I could use "vanity" light bars and put 4 or 5 bulbs per side....what do you think? Here is a 6 light bar with the lights on 6" spacing...

http://store.starrynightlights.com/....yimg.com/I/yhst-62171258227615_1992_30597980
 
AJ,

Those look like the lights. The thing I noticed about them, and it is subjective, is that are far brighter than the normal 4' flouros I'm using. Besides the one I'm using in my "ICU" I have one over a tomato plant. It's growing about a half-inch per day and is not getting leggy - but I keep it close.

IMO, putting them as close as they are on a light bar is going to be overkill, especially if you have standard flouros also. I'm using two of them to cover and 18" x 18" space and the amount of light is pretty intense. Because they are growing potatoes, I'm using white siding so perhaps that plays into the equation a bit. But my ICU has brownish sides and the plant growth is more than I would expect. I really believe that placing the lights eight inches apart will provide more than enough lumens and PAR watts to raise plants.

Granted, the initial investment is a tad higher than buying a shop light - I think it was about $2.50 per light for the fixtures but that's only $12.50 per 4 foot section (plus bulbs). But if I factor in the savings on electricity, it's a wash.

Mike
 
My problem is I have already started down the path of fluorescents and currently have 20 shop fixtures with 40 bulbs in them...I have added some CFLs of different colors in my grow box...I am ineffecient as far as energy use goes but have too much invested in the lights and fixtures to start down a new path now....the wife would freak completely out if I came home with a MH or HPS setup....
 
Nat...I forgot to add, most of my shop lights are used to bring off seedlings and they work fine for that...I essentially have a 32 length grow area that is 18" wide and use 16 of the shop lights for that... I am set up to bring off 640 seedlings at a time in 3" square containers...

the grow box is 4'X 4', 6' tall inside and has 4 fixtures (8 T12 fluros), and one 5 light bar with 43W (150 Eq) CFLs...will be adding two more 2 more light bars for trying to keep plants growing/producing over the winter...that will give me about 70K lumens out of 865 watts (2570 eq watts) and the good part is I can mix and match light spectrums with this set up...I am currently running 2700K, 4100K, and 6500K lights now...(of course, I will only use this about 4 months a year...another good part is I will not have to heat the grow box even in the dead of winger because of the heat produced by the lighting...I may actually have to run a fan all the time for circulation to keep it cool down here in Texas...

sorry, got to ramblin here...
 
I'm experimenting with LEDs now and so far am loving them. I don't know how effective they would be for seedlings - one would need to keep them well watered and the lights more than a foot away.

I bought one a couple of days ago and just now got it up. It is large enough to easily cover a 4 ft. tall tomato plant (it covers 6.5 sq.ft. I've got it hanging 4' from the top of the plant. It uses just 45 watts of power.

For seedlings, I'll stick with the CFLs. I'm getting good growth rates, the plants do not get leggy at all and they put out enough heat I don't need a pad, even in the dead of winter. Plus, I can raise about 54 plants for less than $12 in electricity costs.

I just need to decide if I want to sell plants next year.

Mike
 
Nat, understand about the wattage not having any thing to do with the plants...just information for cost evaluation...the grow box was built to try and replicate the environment of Trinidad...temperature varied from 72-82F via a timed thermostatand humidity levels of ~80%...I am almost there...got the temperature under control and the humidity when it is closed stays about 75%.

Mike...if I add a rack or two of those LEDs, that will give me the option of varying the light spectrum even more precisely. I will probably rearrange the lighting in my box before this coming winter...I want to provide light not only to the canopy but to the undercanopy as well...as you know I am interested in the LEDs too..
 
AlabamaJack said:
I will probably rearrange the lighting in my box before this coming winter...I want to provide light not only to the canopy but to the undercanopy as well...as you know I am interested in the LEDs too..

AJ,

I've wondered about that also - if it would help enough to justify the additional cost and room. Or if I angle the LED light from the side of the plant if that would be sufficient, though I would probably rotate the plant 45 degrees each day.

One thing - if you go with LEDs be sure to get use to watering the plants far more frequently.

Here's how the light looks from four feet away. I measured the intensity last night and was getting about 3,000 LUX at the top of the plant.

tomato1.jpg



tomato2.jpg



tomato3.jpg


Mike
 
What color LEDs you running?...red and blue?
 
AJ,

The weaker light has 160 red bulbs and 60 blue ones and uses 15 watts. It covers about 2 sq. ft. The stronger one has only 112 bulbs total - 28 blue and 84 red and uses 45 watts. It covers about 6.5 sq. ft. Alawn sent me a message about a guy who does a lot of experimenting with lights. http://www.greenpinelane.com/

He raised cherry tomatoes from seeds to ripe fruit in just under 4 months.

Mike
 
I bought the weaker one for $26 plus shipping from an e-bay auction. The strong one was a pricey $80. But, CFL lights to cover that area would be at least $30 and use about 1.5 KW per day more in electricity (a whole 15ยข!) But these lights are supposed to last maybe five times longer than CFL bulbs.

I'll ask if it is okay to post the seller's e-mail address here. If it is, I will.

Mike
 
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