Leaves and stems curling down

Odysseus

Odysseus

The leaves on my plants had started curling up around the edges which turned out to be poorly draining wet soil as discussed in a previous thread:  http://thehotpepper.com/topic/59922-new-seedlings-just-arrived-what-soil-mix/
I finished building a grow light and put them under it.  I then re-potted them in much lighter soil, put a fan on them, and let them dry out a few days and they started looking a lot better.  They looked great for a day or two and then started wilting.  I figured new soil is bone dry, they're getting plenty of light, and they're wilting so I better water them.  Leaf edges curled right back up -not a big surprise, but then the leaves and stems started curling straight down and under.  There's lots of new growth everywhere on each of the plants, but it's all curving.  I've searched the forum for this and I'm stumped.  Any ideas as to what's up now?  Thanks again for all the expert advice, this forum rocks!
 


 
Update: they are really going downhill fast; someone please help! Yesterday morning, the large lower leaves had turned yellow at the edges while the new leaves at the top were still green (although heavily curled). The soil was dry. Throughout the day, the large lower leaves continued to yellow and by yesterday afternoon were completely yellow with some spots of black necrosis at leaf edges. The newer leaves were beginning to turn paler green although not yet yellow. At this point, I'm thinking fertilizer burn because the soil drains well and has been dry a couple days, so I know it's not because of wet feet. I rushed out and bought a new bag of a different brand of potting soil, mixed in a bag of perlite and some coco coir and repotted them again last night. I noticed that the roots had grown a couple inches since I repotted them into better draining soil last weekend. I watered them heavily until I got a lot of runoff. This soil drains even better than the last mix. I hope they can recover. I would really appreciate anyone who could weigh in on the situation.
 
Glad to hear they are perking up. Wish I could help. Figured I could at least bump this to the top for you.
 
All the bottom leaves turned yellow and eventually fell off. Younger leaves are starting to yellow around the edges. I don't know what to do and nobody seems to have any insight to offer, so I guess I just have to watch them die.
 
Maybe I should recap.  The devil is in the details, maybe one of you veterans can spot the problem(s).
 
April 7 -Seedlings arrived from Cross Country Nurseries in good condition.  Kept in the house from day one (67-72 F).
April 8 -Put on East-facing windowsill.  They got ~2 hours direct morning sunlight -maybe a little too much sun after being in a dark box for 3 days.  Soil felt dry to the touch, watered 2 tbsp. each.
             I put several fluorescent shop lights on them in the afternoon.  14-16 hours light per day.  These were the lighting conditions for the next week.
April 9 -Transplanted into 8" pots with soil mix #1 (60% supersoil, 15% perlite, 20% worm castings, and 5% coco coir).  Watered until I got a little runoff.  Soil mix #1 did not drain well at
             all.  It was dense mud.
April 10 -Minor leaf-tip curl on younger leaves.
April 14 -Leaf edges beginning to curl and a few brown dead spots have appeared mid-leaf on some large lower leaves.  Soil still very wet from initial watering.
April 15 -Some new growth observed.  Older leaves looking worse.  Soil still wet.
April 16 -Transplanted into soil mix #2 (50% supersoil, 38% perlite, 2% worm castings, and 10% coco coir).  The roots were waterlogged as soil mix #1 was still very damp 7 days after
               initial watering.  No root growth was observed upon transplanting, but roots looked healthy.  I did not water the plants so the root ball could dry out.
April 17 -Plants looking a little better.  Leaves flattening out and more new growth observed.
April 18 -Plants continuing to improve.  Put my DIY LED light (2 Vero 29 4000K = 15,000 lumens or 206.6 PPF) 18 inches above plants.
April 19 -Explosive growth observed that morning and plants looking great.  Minor wilting observed that evening (not due to heat).  As the new soil (mix #2) had not yet been watered
               since the plants were transplanted into it, I watered them until a very small amount of runoff.  Changed lighting schedule to 18/6.
April 20 -Leaf margins on young leaves curled upward heavily.  Soil damp but not wet -good drainage.
April 21 -Top stems and leaves beginning to curl down toward ground.  New leaf growth observed all over the plant (not just the top but new leaves all along the trunk).  Soil moist.
April 22 -Upper stem/leaf curl down/curl under more pronounced.  Everything still green, new growth everywhere.  Soil was moderately moist.
April 23 -Upper stem/leaf curl down/curl under severe to the point leaves are completely inverted.  Soil was fairly dry.
April 24 -Large lower leaves showing yellow around margins.  By evening those leaves were completely yellow with necrosis at the leaf edges.  Top growth still green but heavily curled
               down.  Soil was dry.  Thinking they were dying of fertilizer burn, I made soil mix #3 (50% basic potting mix, 40% perlite, 10% mix #2) and transplanted them into it.  Roots had
               grown 2 inches.  I watered it until quite a lot of runoff came out of the bottoms of the pots.
April 25 -Yellow leaves start dropping off.
April 26 -No yellow leaves left.  Leaf-edge curl observed on younger leaves.  Soil very damp.
April 27 -Previously green leaves starting to show some yellowing.  Youngest leaves still look healthy.  Soil still damp.
 
I think finding a commercially available potting soil that drains well AND isn't so overloaded with nutes that it burns the plant must be a tall order.  I don't think I have a brown thumb because I've kept orchids, birds of paradise, geraniums, and philodendrons thriving in my house for years.  Why the hell should peppers be so damn hard??
 
I think your peppers are starting over....! all that transplanting,changing of light in the month messed them up fo sure.
New growth looks good, you could prune some of the really damaged leaves and im sure they''ll be fine.
 
Based on the last pictures you posted it seems like all the new growth is slightly yellow, could be just from fast growth more so than a deficiency, but have good shape and structure without necrosis. Some of them look like they are even getting color back...?
 
I think @More Hotta is right, they look like they are trying to start over. You may want to consider taking it easy and not doing too much to them. Those plants have been through quite a lot in a short amount of time. In fact, I would probably forget they exist except to make sure the soil never dries up completely.
 
If the new growth doesn't turn green after they mature and reach full size, then I would look into doing something about it, probably nute related.
 
BTW, when you say super soil, are you referring to Subcool's super soil formula? (I'm familiar with it, this way I know exactly what's in your soil)
 
PS: I started using Subcool's formula and cutting it similar to how you did, but I have switched to just buying a bag or two of FFOF and mixing that into my recycled soil. About 20% FFOF to 70% recycled soil plus 10% recharging additives. Leaves me with a pretty light mix and I feed often. (non nute things like coco included in that 10% also)
 
.
 
No, it was some local bagged brand (don't remember the name) sold at the nursery. The bag said it had composted chicken and livestock manure, shredded wood scrap, and apparently some stuff from the landfill. I will not be using it again.
 
I would say among other things, the biggest problem was nute burn. The crispy edges of older leaves is usually a tell-tale sign.
Seems like the issues started happening after the transplant on 9 April.
 
Everyone has their own method so here's mine:
 
Next time, get yourself some soil-less mix with NO nutes in it; bite the bullet and buy ProMix BX or HP. I ordered 2 cu ft. bag on Amazon for $23 shipped.
Pot up to the ProMix BX, then wait about a week for the plant to establish itself.
At this point, I add 1/4 cup of Fox Farm Happy Frog Tomato and Veg. dry fertilizer (7-4-5) in a ring around the edge of the pot, then scratch into the top 2-3" of soil and water it in. In 4 days you will see explosive growth.
 
30 days later, it's time for another 1/4 cup of the fert.
 
This method is very simple, using 2 proven ingredients: ProMix BX/HP and Fox Farm Fert. Almost the most expensive you can buy, but then again, I'm assuming this is a hobby and as we all know, hobbies aren't cheap.
 
pecker88 said:
I would say among other things, the biggest problem was nute burn. The crispy edges of older leaves is usually a tell-tale sign.
Seems like the issues started happening after the transplant on 9 April.
 
Everyone has their own method so here's mine:
 
Next time, get yourself some soil-less mix with NO nutes in it; bite the bullet and buy ProMix BX or HP. I ordered 2 cu ft. bag on Amazon for $23 shipped.
Pot up to the ProMix BX, then wait about a week for the plant to establish itself.
At this point, I add 1/4 cup of Fox Farm Happy Frog Tomato and Veg. dry fertilizer (7-4-5) in a ring around the edge of the pot, then scratch into the top 2-3" of soil and water it in. In 4 days you will see explosive growth.
 
30 days later, it's time for another 1/4 cup of the fert.
 
This method is very simple, using 2 proven ingredients: ProMix BX/HP and Fox Farm Fert. Almost the most expensive you can buy, but then again, I'm assuming this is a hobby and as we all know, hobbies aren't cheap.
Click to expand...
 
I think you have a very good method there, sir!
 
 
 
(just some other method / seedling mix)
I similarly use the Promix for starter plants and seedlings, but I do make my own mix with it. I do about 30-40% Promix, 20-30% coco coir, 20% straight peat, 20% crushed pumice stone, and 5% worm castings. I also ad a literal pinch of azomite dust and humic acid. All measured by sight, of course.
 
This mix is new for me (just started adding the worm castings and more coco), been using it for a month now and all my new plants and clones seem to love it.
 
 
For anyone looking for a rough idea of cost of Promix - this is what's available in my area
 
ORANGE COUNTY FARM SUPPLY
 
Promix BX (3.8cf compr.)
1 bag = 39.99   = 10.52 per cf
2 bags = 35.90    = 9.45 per cf
 
Promix HP (3.8cf compr.)
1 bag = 40.39    = 10.63 per cf
2 bags = 36.35    = 9.57 per cf
 
 
LOWES
 
Promix HP (2.2cf compr.)
Per bag = 24.98   = 11.31 per cf
 
 
AMAZON.COM
 
Promix HP (3.8cf compr.)
Per bag = 48.02   = 12.64 per cf
 
Promix BX (3.8cf compr.)
Per bag = 58.17   = 15.31 per cf
 
 
 
 
And FFOF at my local hydro shop is about $16 per bag (1.5cf)
 
 
more info than needed, but whatevs:)
.
 
Thanks for the tips!  After up potting them into 5 gallon buckets using Garden Magic potting soil recommended by a local nursery, they stabilized and rebounded.
 
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