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My Overwinter Room

I'm in Sweden, the outdoor grow season is fairly short and unpredictable. I mostly plant in pots so I can move them to the greenhouse, outdoors or into the house all depending on the weather. I was going to choose my best potted plants from this year and over winter them but when it came to it I decided they are all my best plants. So I now have a room in the house with 30 plants over wintering. They only receive natural sunlight and a little bit of light from the house lights. It rarely gets above 0C outside over winter and the days are very short, but everything is doing well. Apart from a piri piri that's about to enter its 3rd year everything was started from seed at the beginning of this year. The amount each plant was (or in some cases wasn't) cut back was done just so I could fit them in the room next to windows, some I could keep without trimming anything off, others had a few branches removed, and a few had to be reduced to just the main stem. As I said above everything is happy and they have all have new growth. They have been in the house since around mid September when the first frosts came.


This won't be a grow long but I will keep it updated
 

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One of my dorset naga's has very hair leaves, is this normal for a dorset naga?
 

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Wow!  Awesome results with the cuttings, Swinglish!  My results are too often more along the lines of what Bookers posted.  I've read that the timing of when you take the cutting can play a big role too, i.e., if you take them while the plant is in a rapid growth mode or re-surging after a cut-back they will likely do better because of the hormones present.
 
I've grown the Dorset Naga for many years - a solid and often overlooked variety, IMO.  In my experience they don't get fuzzy like that.  It's a cool pattern too, the way it tracks the veins in a manner similar to intumescences. Do you have any pictures of the whole plant or facing down at the top of the leaves?
 
The first 2 photos are from a couple of weeks ago, unfortunately there the best photos I can find. When I took the photos today it was after I cut her top off. Shes been growing in the same 1/4 litre pot for about 8 months. Her bottom half looks like it will be super bushy and the top half was just long and thin. The last 3 photos are from just now, shes in a bigger pot with a fresh soil mix. Despite the small pot size I still got a few pods from her.

The longest thickest hair was on the top half of the plant but you can see that the hair is also on the bottom half.
 

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Thanks for posting the pictures.  I was thinking the leaves didn't look quite right and that's still my impression, though I can't really be sure.  I'm trying to guess at whether it's been hybridized and also wondering what it would be likely to cross with that might yield those results.  It's an interesting one!
 
I went to take cuttings from the piri piri but I noticed a small spider mite infestation in the making. I have battled them many times before however this time I decided to take drastic measures as most of my plants are confined in the same room. I threw the piri piri away and I cut the tops of all plants that was growing around her. I couldn't see any signs of spider mites on the other plants but I know it only takes 1 to slip through. The tops.of the plants I cut off were big and bushy, I decided it was to difficult to treat and manage them when they are so big so that is why I cut them down to the main stems. I will give them a need spray every week for the next few weeks as a preventative measure.
 

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Nothing much to report, everything I have cut back is doing good and I'm starting to see some life from them.

I will add some photos of the carolina reaper cuttings I took, they are all doing really well, there all starting to flower but I dont know if there big enough to actually set fruit. I wont pull any flowers off I will just let them do there own thing, if they feel they can set fruit so be it, if they dont then they can drop the flowers on there own.
 

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Carolina reaper cuttings, and last photo is peach ghost, naga viper and Dorset naga cuttings.
 

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I gave away a few of my pink Tigers plants today, I wasnt going to over winter them as I only got about 7 pods off each plant even though the plants grew pretty big, also I really dont like how they taste, they over powered every dish I cooked with them. I initially grew them for the novelty of having the cool looking striped pods but I didn't even get that. The lady I gave them to grew some last year from seeds I gave her and she liked them but her over winters didn't make it so shes happy to have some new plants and I have a little more space to play with so I'm happy
 
On one of my devils tongue plants the main stem is very thin at the bottom and gradually gets larger as it goes up, the highest point has a diameter at least 3 x what it is at the bottom. Question 1... what would cause this to have happened. Question 2 is there anything I can do other that steak the plant up best I can (I just put a temporary wooden steak in there as I dont have any strong plastic ones at the moment)
This plant grows pretty big and I would hate for it to break under it's own weight, especially when the break point would likely be just above the soil line.
 

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I was thinking about that but wasnt sure if the stem would rot where its already turned a bit woody, about 3cm above the soil line I have fresh shoots growing so if I buried it about 10-15cm deeper I'm.sure I would get some nice roots. Just unsure if the woody bit below those shoots and just over and under the soil line would rot??
 

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When I've seen this before it's looked a lot like yours; the narrow bottom being dense and beginning to lignify with the upper portion less dense and still green.  I don't remember the stem being particularly weak at the narrow point despite being narrower.  As far as why and dealing with it; do you run a fan on the plants?  Just a few minutes of fan a day will cause the plant to strengthen and thicken it's stem.  It may also factor into preventing this, but I don't know this and I don't know that there's anything wrong with this condition.
 
Be careful about planting peppers deeper on transplant as some don't like it.  I will do it only with peppers with stems that are already showing adventitious roots and only as high as the root bumps. Stem rot can be a concern if you go too high or once the stem has started to lignify.
 
It hasnt had a fan running near it since before Christmas, of all my over winters this one never really slowed down, everything else took a break for winter while this one couldn't wait for summer!

I will put the fan back in the room (much to the annoyance of my other half) and run it while she is working so it doesn't piss her off.
 
There's no need to plant an overwinter at depth.  In fact, I'd highly recommend against it.  You are putting the lower roots - the ones that are already established and working - down into the wettest part of the container.  And you're doing it while hedging a bet that more top-centric feeder roots are going to grow. (which they very well may not)
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For me, this is exactly the wrong approach.  For OW plants indoors, I'd plant less deep - even to the point of having some of the top most roots partially exposed - and keep your plant's feet out of the "perched water table". (yeah, that again)  Your plant is a very inefficient system under most indoor growing conditions, so don't do anything to exacerbate this fact.
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Given that the number one problem on this forum, in perpetuity, seems to be overwatering, I'd try to steer away from any situation that might create that scenario. (and it may not always be obvious why it's happening)
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As for fat stems...  I would probably try to air layer some roots into the thicker part of the stem, and consider pruning it off later.  That's not a sexy look for a plant, and it certainly doesn't give it great characteristics for supporting its weight in wind, when it goes back out.
 
Swinglish said:
On one of my devils tongue plants the main stem is very thin at the bottom and gradually gets larger as it goes up, the highest point has a diameter at least 3 x what it is at the bottom. Question 1... what would cause this to have happened. Question 2 is there anything I can do other that steak the plant up best I can (I just put a temporary wooden steak in there as I dont have any strong plastic ones at the moment)
This plant grows pretty big and I would hate for it to break under it's own weight, especially when the break point would likely be just above the soil line.
Click to expand...
 
I have had this happen before, especially with
plants that like to grow fast and big. To my
knowledge it has never been a problem. If I
go look now, I'll bet I can see a plant or two in
my grow doing the same thing. I usually stake
plants with  bamboo stakes, anyway, as wind
protection.
 
I'm a fan of not fixing what ain't broken.
 
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