AlabamaJack
Extreme Member
thepodpiper said:
you are absolutely right Dale...that is exactly where I am...and now I am afraid to stop...
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NPK ratio?
- Thread starter Josh
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you are absolutely right Dale...that is exactly where I am...and now I am afraid to stop...
AlabamaJack said:
AJ , that should be your main experiment for next years crop, maybe you could take a set amount of varieties and have two plants of each variety. Do everything the same to one group and to the other group just give them a basic Miracle Grow at intervals specified on the box. You are just the man for this because you are so good at keeping records. Not only will it satisfy your curiosity it will benefit everyone that grows peppers as a hobby.
Dale
AlabamaJack
Extreme Member
you know, I wouldn't even have to do my whole crop...I could pick like 5 varieties of each species I am growing and do the 2 + 2 thing...two with and two without and would have a great photographic side by side comparison...excellent idea Dale...
Pam said:
POTAWIE said:
Some of my best crop years I used absolutely zero fertilizer. I've only started using some since I switched to containers a few years ago trying to be more proactive. About all I used last year was some bone meal after pods came. I've subsequently been told that's old technology. Seems like peppers like mostly sun and some water.
millworkman
Extreme Member
Sounds like a pretty good idea AJ. Lets just hope that the MG ones do not outperform the Botanicare ones right?
thepodpiper said:Well Josh, If this is your first year really getting into it and you use a bunch of ferts and growth inhibitors and the plants do really well then you will naturally assume that they were the reason why they did so good but if you have never grown without using them then you will have nothing to make a comparison with. I would recommend first trying it with the bare minimum for the first year and if your not satisfied with growth and production mix it up alittle next year and see if you get better results. Pound for pound I would put my pepper patch up against anyones and I use nothing but a little Miracle Gro. (Maybe it's the toxic city compost.)
Dale
Hey Dale,
Last year was my first season growing. I only had 4 plants. I didn't fertilize them all that much. I started when they had a few true leaves and then stopped completely when they started to flower. Then I only gave them 2 more feedings towards the end of the season. I used MG Tomato Food. I was very pleased with my results especially for my first season growing. The reason I wanted to try an actual feeding schedule this year was because I figured like TX and AJ that I would see if I could go from good to great results. I do understand what you are saying though. Maybe when I decide to grow less varieties I will try what AJ is trying. Grow several plants of one variety and feed each one differently. Thanks for the advice.
Josh
NatGreenMeds
Banned
Willard, ok man, looking at the scale of that riding mower to the plant, I'd say that plant is at least 60 feet tall and the damn peppers are each 18 inches long.
I'm doin what you do. Holy Crap!
I'm doin what you do. Holy Crap!
AlabamaJack
Extreme Member
well, Willard does have a great grow season 
AlabamaJack
Extreme Member
if you do nothing Willard, you must have some hellaciously great growing media...
I try fish and seaweed ferts when my plants inside in cups but use Miracle Grow Tomato plant food when they go outside. I feed only when they look like they need it about once a month. A box of MG costs 5 bucks and I still have some left after growing 80 plants last year. Works for me.
AlabamaJack said:
What were the results of your experiment AJ?
Is it posted elsewhere and I missed it?
I wanted to revive this thread because I just went and bought some seabird guano to try and 'jumpstart' my plants (what's left of them) for the Fall.
I was curious to gain some insight from you pros about whether more frequent watering might require more frequent fertilization. As with others on this forum I am primarily growing in pots, and (also like others here) have dealt with something like 80 straight days of 100+ degree temps with low humidity and some wind. I am having to water about once every 36 hours just to keep the plants from dying.
I have had quite a few plants get leaf drop on the top of the plant, and then have new growth at the bottom. I don't want to overdo the N levels, but I have ceased feeding them anything since June 1 or so except for seaweed, as there was certainly no point in trying to increase non-existent fruit yield. However, in the next three weeks or so, our temps will drop back into the mid-90s (historically speaking, anyway), and my Fall season will start. I want to make sure I have nice vegetation to support fruit set by late September through mid-October.
Thoughts?
And @ Pam: I'll take the bait. Have you ever driven a well-engineered sports car at the limit? Those who have know that it takes precision, mental agility, amazingly controlled reflexes, and intense concentration on the task at hand. THAT's the reason to buy a sports car. Corollary might be the ability to use that same heightened awareness, control, and precision in, ahem, OTHER areas of life? I'd suggest buying your significant other driving lessons ASAP!
On a related note, I think that sportscars are a great analogy for fertilization. Those that really understand it and know how to use it produce amazing results. Those that don't are buying into the hype. And both produce potentially negative side-effects if used improperly or irresponsibly.
And where the hell are you guys growing peppers that they're 'easy'? I am having a hell of a time in this heat keeping most of my garden alive, much less thriving.
In Central and West Texas, I am convinced that NOTHING is easy to grow.
AJ, we visited NOLA and Mobile a couple of weeks ago. Fascinating trip. I'd kill to bring an acre of Mobile topsoil (and rain) to Texas.
I was curious to gain some insight from you pros about whether more frequent watering might require more frequent fertilization. As with others on this forum I am primarily growing in pots, and (also like others here) have dealt with something like 80 straight days of 100+ degree temps with low humidity and some wind. I am having to water about once every 36 hours just to keep the plants from dying.
I have had quite a few plants get leaf drop on the top of the plant, and then have new growth at the bottom. I don't want to overdo the N levels, but I have ceased feeding them anything since June 1 or so except for seaweed, as there was certainly no point in trying to increase non-existent fruit yield. However, in the next three weeks or so, our temps will drop back into the mid-90s (historically speaking, anyway), and my Fall season will start. I want to make sure I have nice vegetation to support fruit set by late September through mid-October.
Thoughts?
And @ Pam: I'll take the bait. Have you ever driven a well-engineered sports car at the limit? Those who have know that it takes precision, mental agility, amazingly controlled reflexes, and intense concentration on the task at hand. THAT's the reason to buy a sports car. Corollary might be the ability to use that same heightened awareness, control, and precision in, ahem, OTHER areas of life? I'd suggest buying your significant other driving lessons ASAP!
On a related note, I think that sportscars are a great analogy for fertilization. Those that really understand it and know how to use it produce amazing results. Those that don't are buying into the hype. And both produce potentially negative side-effects if used improperly or irresponsibly.
And where the hell are you guys growing peppers that they're 'easy'? I am having a hell of a time in this heat keeping most of my garden alive, much less thriving.
In Central and West Texas, I am convinced that NOTHING is easy to grow.
AJ, we visited NOLA and Mobile a couple of weeks ago. Fascinating trip. I'd kill to bring an acre of Mobile topsoil (and rain) to Texas.
That's a good thread to read. Thanks for bringing it back... 
Can't help with your question about whether frequent watering means you need to add additional ferts.
I tried some bat quano as a jump start to get some additional flowering and it is hard to tell. I got some lucious green growth--almost seemed like too much, even at 1/3 recco rate. So many other variables, hard to really say.
Regarding your primary use of seaweed since June, did the plants appear healthy during that incredible hot spell?
Can't help with your question about whether frequent watering means you need to add additional ferts.
I tried some bat quano as a jump start to get some additional flowering and it is hard to tell. I got some lucious green growth--almost seemed like too much, even at 1/3 recco rate. So many other variables, hard to really say.
Regarding your primary use of seaweed since June, did the plants appear healthy during that incredible hot spell?
That's a good thread to read. Thanks for bringing it back...
My pleasure. Lots of big guns in this thread.
The guy at the shop told me, "And don't use the full dosage. No more than half. Less if you're in doubt. Trust me...". Ah...lol.
Not really. They started their downhill around the mid-June and then started some new growth about three weeks ago. But the weather has been virtually unchanged since then. With the exception of one day, we've been over 100F since mid/late May. And we won't get relief till at least early/mid September. It's like The Truman Show: Live From Hell here this year (and two years ago, too).
The same hydro shop guy I talked to said it sounded like an oxygen deficiency. I can't tell if I'm watering too much. I know the top layer is dry, but I think I'm in that nasty in between place where if I don't water, this convection oven climate fries the leaves in a few days. But I'm afraid I'm not getting full drainage, and wondering if he's right about the oxygen, which might be caused by near anaerobic conditions down lower in the pots. All of this is just pure conjecture, of course.
Thats all some wild numbers I see here. How about you get 20-20-20 to initiate a balanced growth. Half of 20-20-20 surely comes cheaper than the normal amount of 10-10-10.
If the plant doesnt want to blossom, get some higher in Phosphate (the second number) and later you go to 5-15-35 or so...Peppers seem to like potassium a lot... and if you find foul spots on your fruits or twisted leaves...Calcium.
If the plant doesnt want to blossom, get some higher in Phosphate (the second number) and later you go to 5-15-35 or so...Peppers seem to like potassium a lot... and if you find foul spots on your fruits or twisted leaves...Calcium.
I read years ago, that plants actually UPTAKE at a rate of 3-1-2.
I find something close to that, and keep that ratio all throughout my grow. I have some plants right now that have so many flowers, it's mind boggling. I'll never understand why we mess around with such high rates of things like phosphorus.(because those high numbers are just plain wasteful) I guess I'm a little sensitive to it, because I live in an area where water is constantly being discharged into larger bodies of water, which results in algae blooms of epic proportions.
Those high numbers are ridiculous.
I find something close to that, and keep that ratio all throughout my grow. I have some plants right now that have so many flowers, it's mind boggling. I'll never understand why we mess around with such high rates of things like phosphorus.(because those high numbers are just plain wasteful) I guess I'm a little sensitive to it, because I live in an area where water is constantly being discharged into larger bodies of water, which results in algae blooms of epic proportions.
Those high numbers are ridiculous.
10-10-10 is the same as 1-1-1, and the same as 5-5-5 etc etc etc
What matters is the ratio that its diluted down to. I would think that most of those stronger/more concentrated ones would be mixed with a greater qty of water per qty of nute concentrate.
e.g. the weaker ones may specify to mix 5ml per L of water, and the stronger ones may specify a mix ratio of 5ml per 5L. The big numbers really just mean its very concentrated
What matters is the ratio that its diluted down to. I would think that most of those stronger/more concentrated ones would be mixed with a greater qty of water per qty of nute concentrate.
e.g. the weaker ones may specify to mix 5ml per L of water, and the stronger ones may specify a mix ratio of 5ml per 5L. The big numbers really just mean its very concentrated