• If you need help identifying a pepper, disease, or plant issue, please post in Identification.

seeds Starting seeds outdoors.

ThePhill

ThePhill

Alright, seeing as my first post on this has flown the coop, lets try it again. I'm planning on growing my own peppers next year and have already started stocking up on seeds. The problem here is that I really don't have the time,room,equipment,etc to start the seeds insde properly. I was wondering if any of you actually start your seeds outdoors and what kind of luck you have that way. I plan on building some slightly raised, enclosed beds to grow in so I will be able to control seed starting and growing media. Any thoughts,tips,etc would be great.

Phill B.
 
i bought seedlings this year, but i had a buddy that used an egg carton and filled the cells with soil and planted seeds in each cell and kept them in a warm spot inside. once they sprouted he cu the individual cell and planted it in a spot outside. the carton will breakdown. jsut an idea
 
ThePhill said:
... I was wondering if any of you actually start your seeds outdoors and what kind of luck you have that way. I plan on building some slightly raised, enclosed beds to grow in so I will be able to control seed starting and growing media....
Click to expand...
Maybe you could get some C. Annuums that way. But the superhots take longer, so most folks start them indoors around January to get the needed head start. I doubt you could pull off direct seed planting in Oklahoma that early, even with an enclosure over a slightly raised bed. The soil temps would likely be too cool, unless your enclosure is insulated / heated when needed. Germination would be tough. If you hit a long cold snap without heat, you're doomed.

Germination is best at like 85F, and after that, minimum soil temp is best above 50F. I think. You'd have to work around those numbers a bit to pull it off. Hope you can.... :cool:
 
Why not start them in paper towel inside ziplock, then transfer once they pop? Some like to even soak the seed in water for 24 hours before putting in ziplock. There's a bunch of ways, this is just one. Good luck!
 
I keep forgeting everyone is not in warm temps year round, sorry. Of course you need warmer temps to get your seeds to pop, but you still have to keep them warm and cozy,can't just put them outside in Oklahoma too early. Cold snap goin kill your babies!
 
if you dont' have time to start and take care of seeds indoors, then +1 on buying seedlings...you will be ahead of the game because the chinense varieties probably won't germinate until late March, April, maybe even early may depending on our spring...JMO...
 
Sounds like I don't have much of a choice if I want to grow what I want ;) . I have a 4" by 1" shelf in my garage I could make use of, start my seeds in Dixie cups and see if I can track down a dual bulb 4" grow light ( would that be big enough for that area? ). Thanks for the help guys, now I just need to re-plan.
 
bingo phil...it doesn't take much to start seedlings...biggest thing IMO is your temperature...about 80F...I used to say 86F but it seems that variable temps between 76 and 86 is good...and use a light weight seed starting mix to allow good root growth...

good luck my friend...

if you are in the Fort Worth area this coming spring...drop by and we can talk peppers...
 
Thanks AJ, I wish I had found this place about a year ago, I was working 3 weeks at a time in the Kilgore area so a trip to the DFW area would have been cake.

My garage is tied to my heat and air, that plus the lamp should help me keep the temp under control. I have a couple people keeping an eye out for a lamp for me(or at least the ballast) and then it's up to me. Thanks again for the help gang.
 
Alright, so I started a little test here, my wife noticed a 2' grow light the last time she was at Wal-Mart for WAY cheap so she picked it up for me. I had a left over jiffy pellet from frowing some herbs for her so I popped a couple Piri Piri seeds in it. The came through on the 21st, I cut back the weaker ones and here is what I have so far, about 14 hours under the light a day. Spots on the right leaf are water drops.

DSCN1809.jpg


DSCN1808.jpg
 
Those 2' grow lights from Wally World work wonderful for seedlings. It's all I use until it's time to go outside. The trick is to keep the lights within 2-3 inches of the top of the seedling. Keep them from getting leggy. You can check out my thread and see how I get it done with the 2' florescent lights.

Best of luck to you Phill.
 
Thanks Patrick, this is pretty much just a test before I start my big run around January. I do have the light about 2" away.
 
Well the cheap-o light from Wally World seems to be doing some good. My little Piri Piri 10 days after sprouting, not sure if it has one monster leaf or one tiny one lol.

DSCN1812.jpg


My little test wouldn't be right without a super hot or two so here we have a..... 7 Pot Jonah :mouthonfire: . Now if it would just shed that seed husk!

DSCN1810.jpg
 
Well the little Piri Piri seems to be doing pretty good.

DSCN1814.jpg


DSCN1818.jpg


And a couple more Jonahs have popped through.

DSCN1820.jpg


Looks I might be alright for next season after all.
 
Thanks SS. As of right now I have 12 types for next year and plan on doing only 2 of each. I should be able to fit around 8 8oz cups under each light ( although I may start with smaller cups ) so 2 more lights should do. I just have to keep my self from collecting any more seeds :( .
 
I got some hortigubes to try since i want to start a bunch, and sell some to help cover costs and maybe expand another 4x8 raised bed or 2. So far, i have 4 of 4 Brazilian Starfish I just got, and it was quick, and all popped at the same time. I just broke of 4 cubes and put in a ziplock. I'm kinda curious how big I can grow in them before i need to transplant. Nows the time to experiment. I recently got a High Bay from Home depot, 4' 6 buld, just over a hundred out the door, and bright as can be. Covers a nice area for starting seedlings.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top