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If you need help identifying a pepper, disease, or plant issue, please post in Identification.
Trying to figure how just how it is I'm killing these two.
- Thread starter Fitsea
- Start date
SUPER deficiency.
see that white on that scared little one in the back? thats usually iron.
youve also got some bad interveiinal chlorsis probably magnesium or sulfur or both... but im going to go out on a limb here and say you bad info and got talked into underfeeding like most new growers.
you need to feed for real... put them off in the shade somewhere while you find some real ferts.
see that white on that scared little one in the back? thats usually iron.
youve also got some bad interveiinal chlorsis probably magnesium or sulfur or both... but im going to go out on a limb here and say you bad info and got talked into underfeeding like most new growers.
you need to feed for real... put them off in the shade somewhere while you find some real ferts.
I water about once a week from the bottom. The medium sucks- was initially coir, then put the pod in a cup of soil, but that was garden soil, not potting. Mixed in the soil is some bone meal and sulphur. Hesitating to water more since the soil is so dense—when I'm ready to up-pot, I plan to mix in manure and sand/perlite.Blister said:
Too much or too little? There's sulphur in the soil.queequeg152 said:
Could be a sun scald, recently moved outside, and the harden-off had to be sped because I can't really do much while at work (other than put them in an area that gets less light in the afternoon).CAPCOM said:
Bonemeal and sulphur in soil. Seedlings were in coir, and I just plopped the pods in a cup of garden (not potting) soil. When ready to up-pot, I'll doctor garden soil with perlite or sand and manure.
Get some 1 gal pots, some GOOD growers mix, a small bag of mykos, get them repoted and soon. Spend a little time on here sourcing a good fertilizer and get them on a regular feeding schedule.
Lose the Coir and garden dirt when you repot, can be done by allowing root ball to release during immersion in a bucket of water.
Lose the Coir and garden dirt when you repot, can be done by allowing root ball to release during immersion in a bucket of water.
Based on what, exactly?
I've started hundreds of plants with it, no problem. (it's an ideal seed starting medium - especially since it can be bottom watered - wicking) I've even grown some plants to full maturity in it - again, no problem.
There has to be more to a lack of recommendation, than just because you say so.
Brush the dirt off the coir is an OK suggestion, but exposing a rootball on a plant that young, you might as well just start over.
imo you dont really have the time for an organic solution to this... do you have any hydroponic fertilizers? bottled or otherwise?Fitsea said:
you are definatly lacking magnesium or sulfate. just because you add elemental sulfur to the soil does not mean the plants can consume it.
elemental sulfur has to be reduced to sulfate by bacterial in the soil. its a very slow process.
there is nothing wrong with coir(unless its high salinity). dont let anyone tell you otherwise.
i mean they look rough but not that bad. i would provide some sort of nutrients with your next watering. even if its just miracle grow blue stuff.
as long as your cups have some holes in the bottom and you are letting them drain you shouldn't worry too much about overwatering.
to anyone hating on coco go view blisters glog. the roots are sexy
as long as your cups have some holes in the bottom and you are letting them drain you shouldn't worry too much about overwatering.
to anyone hating on coco go view blisters glog. the roots are sexy
No, this is ABSOLUTELY false!!!
You can use coco exactly the same as you would peat. The only difference being how you feed it, if you use synthetic nutes. For organics, there is no difference. You can put any organic fertilizer in it, and it works beautifully.
I have a year round growing season, and I greatly prefer coco over peat, because it doesn't shrink/collapse like peat, therefore it holds structure. And it doesn't break down as fast as peat, which means that I can use it longer before repotting. Therefore, I won't hear of anyone saying that it doesn't work, will do something bad, cause the sky to fall, etc. Some of the things being said with regard to coco are complete bullshit!
Help the guy get his peppers recovered in the fastest, simplest, most straightforward way. That's easy, and already been said - up pot into a good mix, get the feeding/watering sorted, and be done. Stop overthinking! LOL
think hes saying you can amend coco to make a soilmix just like peat based mixes.
blister is talking about pure coco. solid is talking about building a soilmix with coco in it (replacing peat in traditional soilmixes)
dunno why solid said he was absolutely false when blister is talking about his experience with coco.. how can his experience be false lol.
blister is talking about pure coco. solid is talking about building a soilmix with coco in it (replacing peat in traditional soilmixes)
dunno why solid said he was absolutely false when blister is talking about his experience with coco.. how can his experience be false lol.
solid7 said:
peat shrinks badly becauce you dont have a surfactant load to keep it hydrophillic.
juanitos said:
im looking at that one plant behind the other. its almost bone white. it will go necrotic without nutrients soon.
if you want that one in the back to survive, i would not keep this thing in the sun untill you can feed it properly.
you really need to treat coco like a hydroponic medium.
I'm not talking about drying out, but rather breaking down organically. (it turns to mush) This causes even well watered peat to compact in a container. Whereas one needs to add things to peat to help maintain the overall structure of the substrate - in addition to providing other qualities - often one only needs to add things to coco to facilitate better drainage - and that's not even necessary, much of the time. And the roots that one gets from coco are second to none. Bad if you want fruits quickly, but quite desirable if you have an extended growing season. (increased disease resistance)
Don't tell my plants that. Cause dumbshit me has been planting them from seeds in straight coco (or coco/vermiculite) with no hydroponic nutes or treatment, for quite some time. I rather like Dr. Earth Tomato ferts, with a worm casting top dress after first true leaves, and every watering with a weak solution of fish emulsion and seaweed.
This "treat like hydro" statement is so unqualified. What type of hydro? Wicking hydro? Drain to waste? Either way, how is that different from how one may treat a peat based medium? Hint: it's not!
Because he said you NEED to treat it like hydro, and you NEED to feed with every watering. And that's just not true. Not a bad idea, but like I've said in separate posts, you can drop slow release ferts in coco, and it works. Straight, built up, or amended with anything else you like.
I said the difference in how you feed is if you use synthetic ferts. There is a difference in PH, and there is a difference in the macro nutrients required for each media. (Potassium content higher in coco) That's all that it meant then, and that's all that it means now.
solid7 said:
yea peat does not last very long. or not as long as coco does. its a once and done deal with me.
after just one year its bulk density increases too much, and i ended up dumping it into the shrubs or in low spots.
personally i would consider CRF's in pure coco to be a form of hydroponics. i consider pretty much any method using inert mediums without significant nutrititonal value to be a form of hydroponics, aqueous organic fertilizers included.
i think your mistake is in assuming you cannot use ORGANIC ferts in a hydroponic system, or that hydroponic is antithetical to "organic". it is not. hydroponic just refers to the plants getting their nutritional needs met by a solution or suspension of the minerals rather than a soil matrix.
now... as to CRF's in a hydroponic medium... that probably cannot be called a hydroponic system if we are being pedantic here. i guess that should be better referred to as a "soilless culture" culture, but what ever. its a distinction i choose not to religiously adhere to.
I really wasn't even going there. But since you brought it up... I grew hydroponically for years. I have yet to ever see a grower successfully perform a full organic hydro grow in recirculated nutrient solution, without their reservoir (regularly) turning into a bucket of sludge. However, in the case of drain to waste, I've seen that done organically many times. But it's a hell of a lot of work - to a degree that can't be exaggerated. Every watering is some sort of magic solution, often not the same tonic twice in a row, etc, etc, etc. That's a great science experiment, but not much else.
That was my point, exactly. It's a fine line you walk when you get into certain types of media. There is black and white, and then there are shades of gray. Sub Irrigated containers are "technically" considered wick hydroponics. But it's confusing to tell a container grower to treat something as hydroponic - especially if they are leaning towards being noobish. It's understood if you've grown both ways. I believe it's much better to just treat the coco coir as a viable substrate in its own rite - because it very much is. It's versatile enough to be used for hydro.
I am trying to gain access to my photobucket account. I'd very much like to post a pic that shows straight coco growing a very healthy tomato plant, with nothing but the addition of organic fertilizer. I don't take many photos, but I did manage to snap this one...