Although im getting good results,i feel i might be using to many different sizes. I go from peat pallet to 4". From 4" to 1 gallon. 1 gallon to 5 gallon, and finally 15 gallon (the ones that need it). I normally wait until they're completely rooted before bumping up. Id like to hear what you guys prefer?
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Was curious what everyone's potting up sequence was?
- Thread starter maanmaan
- Start date
I plant in either 4" or 6" pots. Then they go into either containers (5-10 gallon) or the ground.
Ive heard of people going from 4" to 15 gallon. What do guys think of that? Big jump
Thats exactly what I did, it went well.
You can see the results in my glog.
In fact with one plant, Charapita, I did a staggered potting sequence, and tge result is a slightly smaller less bushy plant.
Only my experience, which suggests to me they welcome more space.
Thats exactly what I did, it went well.
You can see the results in my glog.
In fact with one plant, Charapita, I did a staggered potting sequence, and tge result is a slightly smaller less bushy plant.
Only my experience, which suggests to me they welcome more space.
maanmaan said:
Probably not a problem. I started a 7 pot in a 4" pot and went directly to 10 gallon container this season, and it's one of the biggest pepper plants I've ever grown. I started it in January and now it has a trunk like a mulberry tree. There was zero lag after I transplanted it.
I stumbled through several different upgrade paths this year, but settled on:
1. Filter paper to germinate.
2. 1 sproutling per 8 oz coffee cup.
3. 6+ gallon wallybags.
Earlier, I tended to add a 4~5" pot stage (If nothing else, because it's so much more convenient to lug them around!), but found the plants were often becoming slightly root-bound sooner than anticipated. Further, I noticed that the plants whose roots roots hit the edge of the pot and started to go 'sideways' seemed to lag non-root-bound plants by several weeks. My current philosophy is to give them as much space as possible. "Just Grow, Baby!"
1. Filter paper to germinate.
2. 1 sproutling per 8 oz coffee cup.
3. 6+ gallon wallybags.
Earlier, I tended to add a 4~5" pot stage (If nothing else, because it's so much more convenient to lug them around!), but found the plants were often becoming slightly root-bound sooner than anticipated. Further, I noticed that the plants whose roots roots hit the edge of the pot and started to go 'sideways' seemed to lag non-root-bound plants by several weeks. My current philosophy is to give them as much space as possible. "Just Grow, Baby!"
Thanks everyone for your input on this topic. Im not sure how many plants ill be using the from 4"-5 gallon technique on this year,but ill definetly be trying it. Although it was a ton of work to use so many pot sizes before cutting it loose into the 15 gallon, it almost felt like the plants thrived off of the stress of being completely root balled before given more space to stretch there legs.
New method for this and further years working very well.
Aerogarden sponge
4" pot
Rinse roots and into 5 gallon "root spa's" (areated DWC)
Leftovers into small pots and planters. (Semi-bonchi------minature plants)
A year in those.
Start over, planting hydro and small plants in ground for the growing season, replacing with fresh plants.
Aerogarden sponge
4" pot
Rinse roots and into 5 gallon "root spa's" (areated DWC)
Leftovers into small pots and planters. (Semi-bonchi------minature plants)
A year in those.
Start over, planting hydro and small plants in ground for the growing season, replacing with fresh plants.
Seed into solo cup size ~3" then direct transfer to final pot size or ground. It perfectly suits the size of my lit grow chamber and timing between sewing and last outdoor frost date when they are just starting to get crowded inside.
... tho' I should mention the chinense tend to sprout last so as some things get larger they go outside a few days earlier than other things and it's just as well that I don't have to devote a continuous block of time to amend the soil and transplant them all simultaneously.
... tho' I should mention the chinense tend to sprout last so as some things get larger they go outside a few days earlier than other things and it's just as well that I don't have to devote a continuous block of time to amend the soil and transplant them all simultaneously.