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White flees.

Takanotsume said:
I made the mistake of using some extremely diluted Dawn in my Neem spray and it still ended up causing some rather bad burns on my shishito plants.
 
Do the oil-based soaps like Dr. Bronner's not have such issues if used in moderation?
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Dr Bronner's is the only one that I use.  The sunlight is the main problem.  Your leaves have to be completely dry before the sun comes up.
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Emulsify at a ratio of 2 parts neem to 1 part soap. I get almost zero suds in my sprayer when I use this amount, so that tells me that I've got it right.
 
solid7 said:
 
Dr Bronner's is the only one that I use.  The sunlight is the main problem.  Your leaves have to be completely dry before the sun comes up.
.
Emulsify at a ratio of 2 parts neem to 1 part soap. I get almost zero suds in my sprayer when I use this amount, so that tells me that I've got it right.
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I agree with this approach (note we are in the same state).  YMMV.
 
We use the term "soap" to describe almost everything and anything that cleans stuff, but from a chemical composition standpoint, you get soap by saponifying lipids (fats, oils, triglycerides) with a very basic/alkaline substance (usually NaOH[lye] or KOH[caustic potash]) to form a stearate, eg C18H35NaO2 if you used lye or C18H35KO2 if you used caustic potash...(please make believe that I used subscripts for those formulas; I don't know how to use subscripts on my phone....)

A lot of products sold as soaps these days are actually cleansers, or mixtures of soap and cleansers. If you stick with Bronner's or similarly well-regarded hippie shit like that, you'll be good. I used to make and sell handmade "natural" soap bitd; is cheap and kind of fun, if you're into such things....

Hth
 
Bicycle808 said:
We use the term "soap" to describe almost everything and anything that cleans stuff, but from a chemical composition standpoint, you get soap by saponifying lipids (fats, oils, triglycerides) with a very basic/alkaline substance (usually NaOH[lye] or KOH[caustic potash]) to form a stearate, eg C18H35NaO2 if you used lye or C18H35KO2 if you used caustic potash...(please make believe that I used subscripts for those formulas; I don't know how to use subscripts on my phone....)

A lot of products sold as soaps these days are actually cleansers, or mixtures of soap and cleansers. If you stick with Bronner's or similarly well-regarded hippie shit like that, you'll be good. I used to make and sell handmade "natural" soap bitd; is cheap and kind of fun, if you're into such things....

Hth
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Thanks, Bicycle! All I ever knew about soap I learned from Fight Club.
 
Hab said:
 
Thanks, Bicycle! All I ever knew about soap I learned from Fight Club.
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Jajaja, there's surprisingly good info in Fight Club; the book provides more detail than the movie, but both are actually pretty decent.

Lipo byproducts wouldn't make the best soap, though. You'd want to add something more cleansing, like coconut oil, at maybe 30%
 
Now I have to Netflix fight club, since it's been 15 years.,  Whatever.  Not much else to do over the weekend of 100+F temps and no rain in sight.
 
jonassx100 said:
put yellow sticky traps everywhere , as much as u can ... they are highly highly ttractive to yellow
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That's a great secondary for getting the fliers.  But you don't want to use it as a solo method. (but still, if you've got a bunch, sticky traps help)
 
Haha awesome! Never realized the typo lol... Great replies thank you to everyone. I did control them with neem, yellow paper and petroleum jelly. The plants have been outdoors flourishing!

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Thanks. I think what also helped was i put them out before mothers day i lost a few leaves to a couple of frosts but we survived. Pennsylvania cold mornings ...

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