Different strokes ,I guess- mine do MUCH better without wood/chips bark.The Organic choice is not supposed to be used as a sole soil component-unless you get the "potting mix"(which I don't care for). My plants go out side, for 8 mos straight and do well with the mix I mentioned in an earlier post.The giant bhuts planted in the mix were twice the size of the plants put in just amended top soil. But what works for Louisianas long growing season , just might not be compatible for Ontario.My moisture control mix is Sta Green vs MG , and that does make a difference in long dry 95-105 deg July and August heat-but it is only part of a mix. I am amazed they add ferts to the plain white perlite!Definitely gonna look at that angle.....but plants don 't get the sissy treatment in real world, where straight up chicken shit might be the only ferts they get in Trini/central America.
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organic A case against Miracle Grow (Organic Choice)
- Thread starter synclinorium
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I will post an update tomorrow on that plant...and how "terrible" it is doing outdoors in MG soil. Lol. Hey, the stuff works. If its gonna rain on 'em too much I just move them to shelter! That's one of the advantages to containers. I would go with it...it is the lowest maintenance soil I've tried. (other than in ground) Its very forgiving, and you don't have to worry with feeding schedules and stuff. One of the main advantages for me is being Military and gone a lot and having long work days is I don't have to worry as much about being very precise with the feeding and watering schedule.Wow! I was looking for a bagged soil mix, rather than mixing one myself. I'm new to growing, and I didn't want to get into mixing. So, your photos have convinced me that the MG Moisture Control may work very well.Woot! Thanks for the post.
I do mix some of my own soil as well, and actually have a side by side comparison of two Manzanos growing one in MG and the other in a mix of some old organic potting mix (screened), some of my compost/worm castings, peat and perlite added. They have been neck and neck, I think they are on 5th or 6th set of leaves now. Maybe I'll post a pic of those guys to.
There are big $$$ advantages to building your own soil, plus the added satisfaction of being that much more involved with the grow. I don't think its something that every new grower should dive right into though. It takes a long time to get a good compost heap going and I think a commercially built soil will give better, or at least more consistent, results while you get the soil building figured out. Most of my mix is used for my raised beds and in the transplant holes of the ones going in the ground.
I think MG is kinda like the Dallas Cowboys or the Miami Heat...you either love it or hate it.
Shane
millworkman
Extreme Member
Plants grow quite well in it, but I have found that for leafy vegetables, obviously lettuces but also basil, parsley and cilantro taste a little funny. Fruit bearing plants are fine but the leafy ones taste a little metallic to me.
Never tried leafy veggies in it??? Except for some khale which was just for winter color outside the window. I thought that stuff was going to block out the sun! I didn't eat any though. Interesting, wonder why?
"Interesting, wonder why? "................its got nutes in spades! I notice the "metallic" early on with lettuce, but generally goes away as the season progresses...so I figure nutes are the culprit.I did not find this to be a bad taste...but taste in general all of a sudden changes going from store bought to back yard stuff.
A few things to consider:
If you top water , and your pots have A LOT of vents...you will need to fertilize with a solualbe by mid season. I have zero compaction issues with my mix; other causes of "compaction". By mid season every container I have 100% root distrubution to to bottom-this results in soil compaction. This is when I bottom water when possible.Top watering brings the roots to the surface, when roots come to the surface, your plants will start dehydrating fast in heat and sun.I start the season with pot 3/4 full, and start topping up gradually.Mulching the top pine needles, (never wood chips)to prevent sunburning the roots, overheating the soil.With only 6-10 plants, its easer enough to jump from 3-5 gallons to a 7 gallon size. After a season with 25-30 plants in containers-this isn't possible without methamphetamine(no, I'm not serious-so chill your 'torts!).If you use pots with poor drainage- well thats when you will see compaction due to water settling as the water "sits" in the pots much longer-the longer the water sits in the pots ,the longer gravity works on things-sitting water in hi nute evirons will result in root damage-as will just plain old sitting water.Hydroponic solution are areated to prevent suffocation.
The moisture control will counter this (lots of pots DO NOT have enough drainage, adequate for survival but not compared to "open" soil in the ground)by retaining moisture- NOT BY HOLDING ACTUAL SITTING VOLUMES OF WATER.The caps are for emphasis-not"screaming"
.Most of my issues usually result from not enough thorough investigation , its easy to say something sucks because "A", BUT WHEN YOU really CONSIDER A,B,C,D and Me- usually the answer is a combination of factors.
A few things to consider:
If you top water , and your pots have A LOT of vents...you will need to fertilize with a solualbe by mid season. I have zero compaction issues with my mix; other causes of "compaction". By mid season every container I have 100% root distrubution to to bottom-this results in soil compaction. This is when I bottom water when possible.Top watering brings the roots to the surface, when roots come to the surface, your plants will start dehydrating fast in heat and sun.I start the season with pot 3/4 full, and start topping up gradually.Mulching the top pine needles, (never wood chips)to prevent sunburning the roots, overheating the soil.With only 6-10 plants, its easer enough to jump from 3-5 gallons to a 7 gallon size. After a season with 25-30 plants in containers-this isn't possible without methamphetamine(no, I'm not serious-so chill your 'torts!).If you use pots with poor drainage- well thats when you will see compaction due to water settling as the water "sits" in the pots much longer-the longer the water sits in the pots ,the longer gravity works on things-sitting water in hi nute evirons will result in root damage-as will just plain old sitting water.Hydroponic solution are areated to prevent suffocation.
The moisture control will counter this (lots of pots DO NOT have enough drainage, adequate for survival but not compared to "open" soil in the ground)by retaining moisture- NOT BY HOLDING ACTUAL SITTING VOLUMES OF WATER.The caps are for emphasis-not"screaming"
.Most of my issues usually result from not enough thorough investigation , its easy to say something sucks because "A", BUT WHEN YOU really CONSIDER A,B,C,D and Me- usually the answer is a combination of factors.'Nuff of that stuff...
Here is the first of the pics I promised. The rest will have to wait a few more hours 'till the sun is up a little better out here on the left coast.
Here are the Manzanos...the one on the left is in the mix I put together, on the right is MG MC.
The MG has a very slight height advantage, but the leaf count is identical. Will post the pics of the Goat's Weed in a bit.
Here is the first of the pics I promised. The rest will have to wait a few more hours 'till the sun is up a little better out here on the left coast.
Here are the Manzanos...the one on the left is in the mix I put together, on the right is MG MC.
The MG has a very slight height advantage, but the leaf count is identical. Will post the pics of the Goat's Weed in a bit.
