=[ Another GM Experimental Thread ]=

Ozzy2001 said:
My Blichman stand is pretty awesome. It's sturdy and has cleats to hold the keggle in place. It's just 8-12" too short.

As it stands now I can barely get my counterflow chiller much lower than the keggle valve and higher than the carboy. Plus the chiller is only 3/8 OD tubing.
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All of the Blichman stuff is nice. I don't even mind bottling beer, honestly ... because the BG makes it easy.
 
My woes were both completely unrelated to the BG, and totally related to a set of shitty O2 scavaging caps.
 
So....You plug the fridge into the cool outlet and could I plug a seedling heat mat into the hot outlet?  Stick the probe into the fridge...and I can get the temps I need?  And I won't burn my house down?   
 
Sorry I am somewhat clueless with this stuff and appreciate the help.  
 
tctenten said:
So....You plug the fridge into the cool outlet and could I plug a seedling heat mat into the hot outlet?  Stick the probe into the fridge...and I can get the temps I need?  And I won't burn my house down?   
 
Sorry I am somewhat clueless with this stuff and appreciate the help.  
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Exactly.
 
tctenten said:
So....You plug the fridge into the cool outlet and could I plug a seedling heat mat into the hot outlet?  Stick the probe into the fridge...and I can get the temps I need?  And I won't burn my house down?   
 
Sorry I am somewhat clueless with this stuff and appreciate the help.  
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Yup, that. That easy ...
 
tctenten said:
 
 
you are correct sir......
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Yeah, you don't need an electrician - you need a $40 Inkbird and you're all set if you've already got the fridge.
 
Down the line, and I just learned this lesson myself, it's worth putting a gun-safe dehumidifier and a small fan in there too, but those can be future (inexpensive upgrades) ...
 
tctenten said:
 
While I have this hooked up to the fridge part....does it render the freezer useless?   
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There are single stage controllers that only turn the fridge on and off, and don't use the heat aspect ...
 
The problem is that you don't want the compressor going on and off that frequently to maintain a nice tight-hysteresis-controlled temp for the yeasties ...
 
Go dual-stage, so it can stay more tightly to set temp ...
 
 
Yes to losing freezer as freezer ...
 
grantmichaels said:
 
There are single stage controllers that only turn the fridge on and off, and don't use the heat aspect ...
 
The problem is that you don't want the compressor going on and off that frequently to maintain a nice tight-hysteresis-controlled temp for the yeasties ...
 
Go dual-stage, so it can stay more tightly to set temp ...
 
 
Yes to losing freezer as freezer ...
Click to expand...
 
 
Ok...that could be an issue...especially as I will be stuffing peppers in there shortly.   
 
This is probably a silly question, and I think I know the answer........the heating element stays outside of the fridge?
 
Refridgeration for Dummies.....I will see if they have it on Amazon.   
 
 
I saw Ozzy's post after the fact.   
 
I am going to have to think about this...not sure I could stand losing the freezer.   
 
tctenten said:
I have been looking at those chest freezers.   I think that...in my garage will work well.   I just need an outlet in there.  
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You might even have an outlet on the outside than you can bring in via three prong extension cord.
 
Single plug outlets being kind of rare, isn't there probably a second one on the one the existing fridge is using? ...
 
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