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Another Stupid Question About Yellow Leaves

scarpetti

scarpetti

I know this has been gone over a million times here but I couldn't find help through the "search" . Or I'm just plain lazy... Most likely lazy.....

I have quite a few plants that have weird yellowing of the leaves(almost yellow/light orange), but otherwise look healthy. Mainly my C.chinense i.e., Chocolate Habs, Nagas, Savia. I thought at first over watering, but the soil's just moist until almost dry then I water. The main ones in question get morning and afternoon sun so I thought that may be an issue. They get a rest-bit for about 2 hours around 2 to 4 o'clock, cuz of the big tree in the back yard. Or maybe a Nitrogen issue. They're getting a dose of 4-5-3. Maybe they need a Nitrogen boost? Does my Nitrogen seem low? I tried a bit of epson salt a week ago and there were no results.
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PH aka a lack of iron may be an issue. If your soil is not at least slightly acidic then your plants cannot access some nutrients.
 
Yes. I had all the plants in my epson salt bath with me a couple nights ago. I'll post some pictures of that tomorrow. I just need to censor some of the pix out of the mix.
 
I think we can just take your word for it. :eek: lol. I would check the Ph as well. What mix are you using?

jacob
 
my bad. i was searching for the word epsom and not epson. and i'm a tiny bit dyslexic so i didn't read that part.
 
I think you should boost your nitrogen and make sure that you are using a fertilizer with both nitrate and ammoniacal forms of N. NH[sub]4[/sub]NO[sub]2[/sub], KNO[sub]2[/sub], NH[sub]4[/sub]PO[sub]4[/sub], etc. The plants can readily take up the nitrate (NO[sub]2[/sub]) forms but overall growth is better when you have a mix of both forms. I do not think you have a Mg or S problem as you would see general yellowing (chlorosis) in the young leaves if you had a S deficiency and you would see interveinal chlorosis (yellowing in between the leaf veins)in the older leaves for Mg deficiency.
 
I'm using Green All potting soil, which I usually use with success. I water about once a week or when the soil gets too dry.
And TMP, right now I'm using EB Stone Organics Tomato food. Any recommendations? How about fish emulsion with seaweed extract?
 
scarpetti said:
I'm using Green All potting soil, which I usually use with success. I water about once a week or when the soil gets too dry.
And TMP, right now I'm using EB Stone Organics Tomato food. Any recommendations? How about fish emulsion with seaweed extract?
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I use Proven Winners (only because it was on sale, what matters is what is in the fertilizer) 24-12-17 with micronutrients (0.06% Mg, 0.02% B, 0.05% Cu, 0.12% Fe, 0.06% Mn, 0.018% Mo, and 0.05% Zn) wherein the N comprises 2.35% ammoniacal N, 5.1% NO[sub]2[/sub], and 16.55% Urea (CO(NH[sub]3[/sub])[sub]2[/sub]) which is readily broken down into 2 moles of NH[sub]3[/sub] and CO[sub]2[/sub] by soil microbes so basically you can count it as ammoniacal N. In addition, the Cu and Fe are chelated which increases their solubility at neutral pH.
 
The Medicinal Pepper said:
I use Proven Winners (only because it was on sale, what matters is what is in the fertilizer) 24-12-17 with micronutrients (0.06% Mg, 0.02% B, 0.05% Cu, 0.12% Fe, 0.06% Mn, 0.018% Mo, and 0.05% Zn) wherein the N comprises 2.35% ammoniacal N, 5.1% NO[sub]2[/sub], and 16.55% Urea (CO(NH[sub]3[/sub])[sub]2[/sub]) which is readily broken down into 2 moles of NH[sub]3[/sub] and CO[sub]2[/sub] by soil microbes so basically you can count it as ammoniacal N. In addition, the Cu and Fe are chelated which increases their solubility at neutral pH.
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Let me go find my "Advanced Botany For Dummies" book! Maybe that will help me decipher this info. But thanks anyways. I'll just write it down and bring it to my hydro shop and they'll hook me up with something.
 
scarpetti, here's a good explanation of the different sources of nitrogen. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CB0QFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.extension.umn.edu%2Fdistribution%2Fhorticulture%2Fdg6551.html&rct=j&q=types+of+nitrogen+fertilizer&ei=6UAdTL3pJMP38Ab8x7CrDA&usg=AFQjCNHcuruJ5tMNZN6RdOZWHcBmkBteEA
 
scarpetti said:
Let me go find my "Advanced Botany For Dummies" book! Maybe that will help me decipher this info. But thanks anyways. I'll just write it down and bring it to my hydro shop and they'll hook me up with something.
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Sorry about that Scarpetti, the ammonical N is the form of N that comes in the form of ammonia (NH3) and the nitrate form is NO2. If you read the back of the fertilizer bag it will break the total N down into ammonical N and Urea and soluble (nitrate) N. With regard to the micros and the chelated forms the back of the bag will list the metal and if it is chelated it will read Cu EDTA or something similar. This just means that in soils having neutral pH (7) or there about metals are generally not very soluble and thus relatively unavailable to the plant. Chelating (attaching) the metal to another molecule which is soluble at neutral pH and thus available to the plant so the plant will take up the chelating molecule and the metal hitches a ride into the plant. Hope this is more decipherable.
 
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