beer ASK WHEEBZ

wheebz said:
that is a horrible idea
 
i dont even want to begin to tell you why that is such a bad idea
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i went back ...
 
apparently it's used to remove the chloramines/chlorine from the water, and the sulfur aspect that adding it imparts, boils off during the boil ...
 
i dunno, i'm not doing it, but that's what they are talking about ...
 
i'm going to focus on more fundamental stuff, like not making bottle bombs ...
 
K2S2O5 is used to stop fermentations and as an anti-oxidant
 
I use it in finished beers and ciders, but not prior to fermentation, and especially not to reduce oxygen during the boil
 
the boil knocks all of that out, no need to do more additions of random things 
 
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Yeah, I'm going w/ what you say ...

Just had this for the first time the other day.

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Changed my life.

I'm going to bust ass working for a couple of days and then go pick up three of those ... I feel like I need to fully experience it ...
 
grantmichaels said:
ASK WHEEBZ -
 
I heard (was a podcast) where Aussie's were adding sodium metabisulfite to their mash (out?) in advance of the boil to eat up oxygen and reduce hot side aeration ...
 
Is that a good idea?
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no no no no no no no no no no no no no no nooooooooo!  Both for the idea and that there are temporary Australians involved. Temporary in that they are muppets destined to play chicken with trucks they are that retarded.
 
chimay, orval and westmalle, and duvel ... i tried those a few years back ...
 
this one is the one i really connected w/, though ...
 
i've never liked a beer like that, so much ...
 
as tb would say, i want to get drunk w/ it ...
 
i didn't know of that one until this afternoon ...
 
picked up a bag of ice tonight, actually ... for whenever the clearing appears in my schedule, next ...
 
maybe i'll be able to brew tomorrow night ...
i need to order one of those belts or fermwrap things, so i can brew up a couple of saison-type's that can ferment in the closet, w/o cold ...
 
alright, alright - cheers!
 
been mainlining info on yeasties ...  the first thing i derived was that yeast nutrient is A Good Thing ...
 
the other thing i derived is that you are trying to get 8-10 ppm O2 into the wort, and if i'm understanding correctly, the window for oxygenating the cold wort in primary starts after pitching, until 14 hrs later ...
 
this, as i understand it, is the only time during brewing beer where O2 is a beneficial thing, and rest of the time it's the source of various oxidative problems or degradation or skunking etc ...
 
my setup is an O2 tank w/ regulator + air filter + SS wand, which i'm assuming i'll be running through a drilled stopper ...
 
can you share a little bit of info on what that 14 hr window looks like in terms of the optimum time to do said oxygenating? ...
 
better to add the oxygenation the next day after brewing? ...
 
i want to say people were oxygenating for between a half and hour and maybe one guy was up at like 2 hours, can you add some clarity to how to apply oxygen? ...
 
muchas gracias!
 
Your talking about using a tank of Pure O2 there, right Grant?

I don't use O2 but I do have an aquarium pump and an air stone that I put into the water I chill overnight and let her bubble away till its mix email up time.
 
so, i imagine it's just a different of rate of application between air and O2 ... a percentage of the total throughput is O2 and the rest is Nitrogen etc ... right? ...
 
if it's a higher concentration of O2 from a tank, i'm assuming you just apply it for a shorter period of time, i guess ...
 
i haven't used it yet, but that's what i'm planning to improve for brewing my next batch ... going to make a double-batch (2 gal), use a starter, and apply O2 ... so i'm just kind of pre-gaming it now, because I know I need to think about getting the starter going a few days in advance ...
 
ive seen a lot of talk about O2 versus air and most of it points to it really only being important when you have really big beers with sky high OGs. You need to use the O2 to get your yeast to reproduce sufficiently to handle all the the sugars.
 
always use straight O2 if you can
 
oxygenate as soon as your beer gets cold, either right before or right after pitching your yeast. I do it inline right after my heat exchanger before the fermenter on the big system, and on the small system I oxygenate in the fermenter right before I add yeast
 
that 14 hour window is pointless if you want to start fermentation as soon as possible
 
thanks!

i've seen the near future ...

and you just explained the one part i didn't grok - it was inline O2!

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i see this dude's getting the cone, too, lol ...
 
thats what happens with a proper whirlpool and good fining agents
 
you should see what mine look like for 30 barrels
 
ill take a picture next time
 
i bet ...
 
my 3rd batch, the 2nd stout, should be ready to bottle ... w/ corn sugar this time, instead of the priming tabs ... i made bottle bombs out of batch #1, and possibly out of batch #2, as well - we'll see ...
 
i'll have to check the gravity later this evening and see if it's safe (this brew is the one where the mash temp got up into the tannin-releasing range because I forgot to turn the oven off before i put the mash tun into the oven) to bottle ...
 
if you are able to view excel files (excel, libreoffice etc), i've been working on reducing this recipe for a saison dupont-ish brew from a guy somewhere in Florida into a 2 gal BIAB batch for my 1st non-kit brew:
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u7ly7c3cqyrrzz9/BIABacus%20PR1.3T%20-%20Saison%20-%20AdamK%27s%20-%20Batch%20A0.xls?dl=0
 
he had the whole RO + additives water gig going on, which I'm going to forgo for this one (this time) ...
 
a 2.5 gal key comes early next week ... along w/ a 3 gal carboy ...
 
i haven't opened the box w/ the 5 gal kegs yet, but it's here for when the time comes ...
 
i have to figure out how i need to be collecting data to figure out a kettle efficiency or whatnot, next ...
 
moving right along, though ... thanks for all the help ...
 
 
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