You should use different ph▼ especially if it's on a recirculating system. Once the acid is used up it leaves phosphorous or sulfur in the water. I use phosphoric and sulfuric acid. Sulfuric works the best for me but after time the plants start to show signs of sulfur toxicity. Especially in cucumbers.
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Carolina Reaper Plant Issue..
- Thread starter ELCouz
- Start date
i would get rid of all aphids , their rough on small plants , i water with baby water Wal- mart , grocery stores have it , you can use ph down for pools . its cheap
I used to experiment with a lot of my reapers. Here is what I did.
- stop feeding chemical fertilizer
- clean baby reaper with water using misting nozzle
- give it a shade or lower light intensity.
if you wanna take risk, try this
- stop feeding chemical fertilizer
- cut all the leaves
- clean baby reaper with water using misting nozzle
- raise air humidity level
- keep soil moisture level between 30% - 40%
- give it a lot of light
Patience required.
- stop feeding chemical fertilizer
- clean baby reaper with water using misting nozzle
- give it a shade or lower light intensity.
if you wanna take risk, try this
- stop feeding chemical fertilizer
- cut all the leaves
- clean baby reaper with water using misting nozzle
- raise air humidity level
- keep soil moisture level between 30% - 40%
- give it a lot of light
Patience required.
lek said:
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That's not going to be possible, seeing as how there is no fertilizer on planet Earth that is not a chemical.
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There are organic chemical fertilizers, and there are inorganic chemical fertilizers. If one derives their "chemicals" from a rock, vs a living organism, is that somehow supposed to change the whole dynamic of the plant's physiology and function?
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This is the exact schedule I've written for the Carolina Reaper plant (on hold for now, others plants have diff mix of nutes):solid7 said:
Exactly 1 liter of water for the plant (5 gal pots ... PH 6.0 after nutes)
These values are half the recommended concentration on the bottle for: General Purpose - Mild Vegetative
-0.7 mL of GH Flora Gro (2-1-6)
-0.7 mL of GH Flora Bloom (5-0-1)
-0.7 mL of GH Flora Micro (0-5-4)
The schedule was around once per week...every time soil is low on moisture (tested w/ digital moisture meter)
solid7 said:
I don't understand this statement. If I step away from phosphoric acid (unless I find another type of PH down) I will not have my target PH (6) *****... My city tap water is around 7.6.
**** When watering with water only... the nutes normally drop the ph around 6
I have ordered a soil test kit and a TDS meter so I can give you more information guys. I should have everything by end of next week.
vinegar ( dilluted ) will lower P.h. did they have a shot of calcium ? you said you put bone meal in the soil 3 weeks ago , if it was powder it will take a while to absorb , i'd use water soluble
moruga welder said:
Yeah you are right I forgot to say that I added bone meal three weeks ago!
I've been using apple cider vinegar before buying phosphoric acid. From what I've read is that the vinegar break down too fast by the soil microorganisms.
After I was hesitating between sulfuric acid and phosphoric ... people saying that phosphoric acid is good for plants (double usage... ph down & P supplement).
I have to read more...but it's hard to settle on something many topics are controversy around here.
its to ones preference , but if you use rain, spring, bottled water from the start and don't over fert. you should be fine , i've never had to use any acid what so ever , is the bone meal powder ? all you need now is a low gal. fert. program every 2 weeks with some cal/mag in between , should have no problems . aphids are a problem
ELCouz said:
Yeah you are right I forgot to say that I added bone meal three weeks ago!
I've been using apple cider vinegar before buying phosphoric acid. From what I've read is that the vinegar break down too fast by the soil microorganisms.
After I was hesitating between sulfuric acid and phosphoric ... people saying that phosphoric acid is good for plants (double usage... ph down & P supplement).
I have to read more...but it's hard to settle on something many topics are controversy around here.
moruga welder said:
Agree on the aphids I try my best to remove them...shower is effective on the older plants with a strong woody trunk. Not so much with the young plant (too strong)
I do check each leaves and squash the buggers!
This bone meal are small particles around 1/16" diameter. I grind it to very fine powder to help the breakdown in the soil.
Is the GH Micro + Bloom equivalent to cal mag?
Nutes are expensive (spent 70$ bucks).. do I really need another bottle for Cal-Mag?
Micro specs:
Bloom specs:
GH CALiMAGic (CAL/MAG) specs
lek said:
why not possible? Did I tell him to feed some kind of fertilizer? LOL
because technically, any fert (the actual N.P.K in it) is a mineral, therefore its not possible for it to be "organic"
organic = plant / animal matter. Ok you can get ferts made from organic materials, but the nutes themselves (N.P.K.) etc can never be "organic" as they are a mineral, therefore are not plant or animal matter.
Had this discussion over the dinner table a little while back over "organic table salt". Some company decided to call their salt "organic" which is simply not possible due to the simple fact salt is a mineral and therefore not organic.
nowadays the term organic has been bastardized and is used for anything that is "natural".
natural and organic are not the same thing.
no that should be fine .
ELCouz said:
Agree on the aphids I try my best to remove them...shower is effective on the older plants with a strong woody trunk. Not so much with the young plant (too strong)
I do hand by hand each leaves.
This bone meal are small particles around 1/16" diameter. I grind it to very fine powder to help the breakdown in the soil.
Is the GH Micro + Bloom equivalent to cal mag?
Nutes are expensive (spent 70$ bucks).. do I really need another bottle for Cal-Mag?
Micro specs:
Bloom specs:
GH CALiMAGic (CAL/MAG) specs
This is not completely correct. Plant can take up very small organic molecules.nzchili said:
N = Nitrogen, N is not a mineral. It's a chemical element. Plant can take up mineral form of nitrogen, e.g. Ammonia, Nitrate. Is these are fertilizers you guys talking about?
In case you don't know, I'm also a chemistry nerd but wait, I suggest stop feeding chemical fertilizer. What's wrong with my advice.
This is what I read about using vinegar for PH Down...
----->>>>DO NOT USE VINEGAR TO ADJUST PH - Why not to use vinegar as your pH down
----->>>>DO NOT USE VINEGAR TO ADJUST PH - Why not to use vinegar as your pH down
lek said:This is not completely correct. Plant can take up very small organic molecules.
N = Nitrogen, N is not a mineral. It's a chemical element. Plant can take up mineral form of nitrogen, e.g. Ammonia, Nitrate. Is these are fertilizers you guys talking about?
In case you don't know, I'm also a chemistry nerd but wait, I suggest stop feeding chemical fertilizer. What's wrong with my advice.
Ok yes your correct on a minor technicality, you got me there, N is not a mineral.. Its not organic either though.
The point remains the same though that the nutes that the plant consumes are not organic.
Would be interested to see any info relating to these other "organic molecules" which you say plants uptake. (im not doubting you, im generally interested in learning). They are obviously not a requirement though as a plant in hydro for example would not get them. And if it did. Its not organic.
Nothing wrong with your advise. Use whatever ferts you please. Both types have their place. My only point is that the nutes in "organic" ferts, are not really organic. They may have come from an organic/natural source, but break it down and whats left is nutrients that are minerals (or chemical elements as you pointed out) hence not organic material.
My take is that organic / "natural" ferts add substance back to the soil. They improve the soil fundamentally and add more than just basic nutrients. They improve soil structure, encourage beneficial micro organisms to thrive etc etc
Chemical ferts on the other hand provide an instant hit of nutes and give nothing more back to the soil.
I think best practice is to use a bit of both. Add quality and life / structure back to the soil with natural ferts, and provide a quick hit / boost with chemical ferts.
EDIT; ammonia etc breaks down or dissolves to provide/release nitrogen. Ammonia contains nitrogen, but it is not nitrogen. Plants do not take it up (ammonia) prior to it being converted (or released) into soil as nitrogen.
Sorry for the hijack but there's some interesting discussion about water pH in here. What is the ideal water pH for pepper plants grown in pots with potting soil?
My choices are 6.0 direct from the well or neutralized to 7.6 to feed the house. I can make any pH in between by blending water. Half 6.0 + half 7.6 = 6.8 but that's pretty much a pain in the butt. Being a lazyman, it's nicer to water the pots with a hose from one source or the other. I have done some experimenting with one water source vs. the other but I really don't notice a difference.
Given I want the healthiest plants and a great yield of the spiciest of pods, what would be the best pH water to use? Is blending in jugs worth my while?
My choices are 6.0 direct from the well or neutralized to 7.6 to feed the house. I can make any pH in between by blending water. Half 6.0 + half 7.6 = 6.8 but that's pretty much a pain in the butt. Being a lazyman, it's nicer to water the pots with a hose from one source or the other. I have done some experimenting with one water source vs. the other but I really don't notice a difference.
Given I want the healthiest plants and a great yield of the spiciest of pods, what would be the best pH water to use? Is blending in jugs worth my while?
lek said:This is not completely correct. Plant can take up very small organic molecules.
N = Nitrogen, N is not a mineral. It's a chemical element. Plant can take up mineral form of nitrogen, e.g. Ammonia, Nitrate. Is these are fertilizers you guys talking about?
In case you don't know, I'm also a chemistry nerd but wait, I suggest stop feeding chemical fertilizer. What's wrong with my advice.
This is a silly conversation. If you're really a chemistry nerd, then you know that nitrogen is a chemical element. No matter where nitrogen comes from - whether it's elemental, or from a broken molecular chain - the result is EXACTLY the same. A dead fish yields the same nitrogen, as potassium nitrate, when it is decomposed into free potassium, oxygen, and nitrogen...
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ALL fertilizers are chemical. They can all be explained by Chemistry 101.
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There are questionable fertilizers, but not everything that isn't listed "organic" is bad.