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Check out whats growing in my closet :)

marcosauces said:
Man.....you guys are serious about your peppers on winter..!!!

Haha, this is gonna be an all year round thing man. I'm actually planning on switching over to hydro january or february. Indoor cultivation is just interesting to me. Plus, how can you beat rolling your computer chair over to the closet and picking a fresh pepper?

I just transplanted that peruvian chile into one of those 1 gallon pots like the jalapeno is in. It had a really fat root ball that filled up that 4" pot pretty good.
 
I decided to go with this: Single bulb t5 fixture

It is only 30 bucks, comes with the bulb, and you can daisy-chain them together so you can have as many or few as you need. For 4 bulbs it is 120 compared to the 4 bulb system for 170. Plus, I don't have to buy them all at once, I can add them as i need them. Pretty sweet. 24 watts & 2280 lumens per bulb x 4 bulbs = 96watts & 9120 lumens. Plus, I still have my CFLs :cool:
 
Couple pics. I cut off one of the 3 new branches that formed on that jalapeno leaving only 2 new main branches. Each one of those has begun to divide in 2 as well it appears. Also, that purple pepper supposedly bears fruit that point upwards, so keeping it trained low like I have it shouldn't hurt the peppers any. They won't need room to hang like on the jalapeno. How much longer should I wait before letting either one of them begin to flower, another few weeks to a month?



 
Stupid question here...do you leave the lights on 24-7 as a way to encourage aggresive growth? It seems to me if you did that, it would stress the plants way too much and possibly kill them. Or, maybe i'm just nuts....
 
Sickmont said:
Stupid question here...do you leave the lights on 24-7 as a way to encourage aggresive growth? It seems to me if you did that, it would stress the plants way too much and possibly kill them. Or, maybe i'm just nuts....

There are some plants that do need a rest cycle. Apparently peppers aren't one of them. See, from biology everyone knows plants need "light" and "dark" reactions to live. Well, the "dark" reactions really don't necessarily require darkness, they just don't require light(photoindependent). There are different classifications of plants, c3, c4, CAM, etc. Peppers i believe, like most plants, are c3 plants, which do not need dark period to complete photosynthesis(refer to below)

Some plants need dark periods for reasons other than simply survival. Some plants require certain amount of darkness to flower, others only take in co2 in the dark, like cactus & other succulents. However, a lot of plants will grow at peak potential under 24 hour light. So far, the peppers appear to be fine, and even have began to try and flower, so they obviously aren't photoperiod dependent for their flowering. I'm gonna keep the lights on 24/7 until they seem to be hurting, I'll let yall know how it turns out.

Excerpt from (http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/botany/physiology.html)

Dark Reaction:


This part of the photosynthetic process is also called the Calvin Cycle. With one cycle of this reaction 3 carbon atoms are fixed or placed in a sugar molecule. This pathway is called C-3 photosynthesis. This is the way that most dicots or broadleaf plants make sugars during the dark reaction. C-3 photosynthesis has a disadvantage though. Oxygen competes with CO 2 for a binding site during the dark reaction. Sometimes sugars are not formed, but energy is still expended to complete the cycle. This is called photorespiration.



Another dark reaction pathway is called C-4 photosynthesis because 4 carbons are fixed or placed in a sugar molecule each time the cycle is completed. The dark reaction of C-4 photosynthesis occurs inside of specialized parts of leaf cells in the leaf called the bundle sheath, which exclude the presence of O2. Because there is no oxygen present photorespiration does not occur. The C-4 photosynthetic pathway is what occurs in most monocots or grasses. This is a more efficient pathway and allows grasses to grow faster than broadleaf plants. Crassulacean acid metabolism or CAM photosynthesis is the dark reaction type found in many cactus, succulents, bromeliads, and orchids as well as a few other plants. CAM photosynthesis is similar to C-4 photosynthesis. However, CAM plants open their stomata only during the night to collect CO2, when air temperatures are cooler, thus conserving water because of reduced transpiration. The CO2 is converted into malic acid and then converted back to CO2 during the day when light is present, thus producing sugars, while the stomata are closed and greatly reducing water loss.
 
Txclosetgrower said:
Haha, this is gonna be an all year round thing man. I'm actually planning on switching over to hydro january or february.

I've heard that hydro farming vegetables (such as tomatos) can result in vegetables with less flavor. Apparently the soil adds to the flavor somehow. I know that with wines the soil which is used makes a big difference.

Keep us posted on whether you notice any difference with the hydro.
 
RedThumb said:
I've heard that hydro farming vegetables (such as tomatos) can result in vegetables with less flavor. Apparently the soil adds to the flavor somehow. I know that with wines the soil which is used makes a big difference.

Keep us posted on whether you notice any difference with the hydro.

Yeah, i've heard that as well. I think its attributed to the fact that in soil there are tons of different micronutrients not accounted for as opposed to hydro where you feed the plant its specific required nutrients. Like some of the nutrients not responsible for maintaining life are used by the plant for making flavor or something. I also heard that if you supplement with carbohydrates, either using something like Sweet by Botanicare or molasses to supplement plants increase yield and flavor in the fruits/vegetables. I plan on supplementing with molasses this time around anyway, I'll let you know how it turns out for sure.
 
Well, with the exception that my jalapeno is retarded, everything else is going well in the closet. Check out the little dorset naga.

All 3:


Purple Chile:




 
That Jalapeno is really looking like a Habanero(which would account for the slight curl in the leaves). Someone mentioned that before, I'm just restating officially.

I'm still wondering if you shouldn't move the lights a little further away from the leaves on that plant.
 
imaguitargod said:
That Jalapeno is really looking like a Habanero(which would account for the slight curl in the leaves). Someone mentioned that before, I'm just restating officially.

I'm still wondering if you shouldn't move the lights a little further away from the leaves on that plant.

Nah, CFLs are most effective only an inch or two away from the plant. Plus, i have a fan blowing directly on the lights which keeps them even cooler. The light above the purple one is actually closer than the one above he jalapeno, and the purple one looks happy. After doing as much reading as i could stand on pepper diseases, i still have no clue what is wrong with the "jalapeno". All the diseases appear to make the leaves curl upwards instead of down. The only thing that causes downward curling is "physiological leaf curl" which isn't caused by anything other than random luck and requires no treatment. Even though the leaves curl all the way up, they don't appear to want to come off which is another sign of disease. And it really doesn't look like pest damage to me, but i dunno. Oh well, as long as its living and growing, i'm not gonna sweat it. Even if my first jalapeno plant turns out to be a fig tree or something i don't care, i'm still learning :hell:


For all i know, the jalapeno could be a habanero, but the seeds came out of a Tam Jalapeno #1 package. I'm gonna go ahead and let the retarded thing flower when it wants to just to find out, but i'm not gonna let it set more than a few fruit this time around cause i still want it to grow some.


The purple one is absolutely loving the LST'ing. Do you see all the branches that are growing and dividing just like the main top? Its growing fast, like i can actually see a difference from the time i go to bed to when i wake up. I'm not going to train it horizontally much more, I'm going to start letting it resume vertical growth now, so I should have a fat bush in a month or so.

Thanks for the comments guys.
 
My guess would be it definitely isn't pest damage, only because of the proximity of the other plants. I'd say they'd all be having problems if it was indeed pest damage.
 
Should I remove the flower buds from the purple one again? Or is its big enough to let it go ahead and fruit?
 
imaguitargod said:
Let it do some more viritcal growth, just so it get's it barrings.

Yah, its just now really started taking off, I guess I'll pull this set of nubs off too. I'm debating on scrapping that jalapeno, since its still f'd and the bottom leaves keep yellowing now. Also, for some reason, one of the 1st two real leaves on that dorset showed burns around the edges...I know its not nute burn since the soil has no nutes, but I really doubt its light burn either, since it's just 1 of the leaves and the 2nd set of leaves is even closer to the light and it looks fine....oh well, so far, on all 3 plants, the first sets of leaves have always looked dumb.

See, the purple one's first leaves were real bad and now its really healthy.
 
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