beer =[ GM's 1st 16x Batches, and/or 10 mo. Brewing ]=

RocketMan said:
Looks about right, next time spin the hydrometer and it'll cleat away the bubbles
 
I actually did spin it, but maybe not hard enough ... seemed a bit fragile ...
 
Speaking of fragile ... glass thief ...
 
I'll have to back and see if there's plastic or acrylic or 304 or something ...
 
Yeah, that thing's totally getting broken: either in the fermenter jug going in and out, or in the sanitizing solution, when bigger stuff get rearranged ...
 
Does 1047 mean anything in and of itself, or is only interesting in terms of it's relation to the FG? ...
 
I haven't gotten to where I know what's going on yet, just "doing it" and trying to build up some momentum on this hobby as opposed to my usual - over-thinking it straight away ...
 
I can't really see much bubbling in the primary itself, but I can see the bubbling from the blow-off in the sanitizer bowl, so we're getting somewhere - I think ...
 
It's sitting at 68.3F by itself, just sitting in a cooler w/ ...
 
Had I just popped it in last night w/o the frozen two liter, it would probably not have needed any attention, honestly ...
 
Glass is nice and pretty but acrylic doesn't break as easy.

It seems that 1046 is kind of magical around FGs, at least I've had several come out to that when Input them into BeerSmith

Your not going to see much bubbling in the carboy itself. What you might see is a bit of a Brownian motion kind of a thing going on. I use Ale pales so not much to see there but I. See it in my pepper ferments.

So far as over thinking things to me that tends to happen when I get an idea for a new beer. Like when I put together my Fig Pudding Porter, oh it came out good but I think it would have been better with less in it. So far as the actual brewing though, I trust the process that has been used longer than I care to think about, no over thinking to it and as far as your wort getting down to 57, my Tudor ale has been fermenting at 64, so no worries mate.

Cheers Brother!
 
Thanks for the reassurance, it seems to be doing just fine ... and "Yes" to the brownian motion ... I was looking at it earlier and I noticed there were fault lines of effervescence ...
 
I tasted the wort from the hydrometer jar and it tasted like flat stout, which is probably a good start, I'm thinking ...
 
I think I'll brew the Grapefruit Honey Ale next, so I have a more translucent beer in-process ...
 
I can imagine myself buying a chest freezer much sooner than later, but we'll give the Cool Brew bag it's chance to outperform my expectations first!
 
Compared to other hobbies, I found the cost of the additives and aids to be pretty reasonable, so I ordered some in ... especially since I'm planning to see how far I can take BIAB before I look elsewhere, a sort of freedom in constraint to keep me focused on brewing beer, and not on brewing gear =)
 
Cheers!
 
I'm a little bit confused about how the fermenter freezer works ... you set an climate in it for the lowest beer's desired temps, and then raise individual fermenter's stored in there w/ mats or belts or blankets to fine adjust their individual temp, or ? ...
 
You only need to sanitise the thief - as before, check it before adding the yeast next time will give reduce the chance of infection, but given how thorough you have been you will be fine.  
 
Sooo next you need the beer smith app, which you can plug your recipes into.  
 
The following link will come in handy post ferment.  
 
http://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/
 
Should get a nice mid strength 4.5% to 4.8% if your starting temps were not too high and it ferments through.  So now we wait  :P
RocketMan said:
Glass is nice and pretty but acrylic doesn't break as easy.

It seems that 1046 is kind of magical around FGs, at least I've had several come out to that when Input them into BeerSmith

Your not going to see much bubbling in the carboy itself. What you might see is a bit of a Brownian motion kind of a thing going on. I use Ale pales so not much to see there but I. See it in my pepper ferments.

So far as over thinking things to me that tends to happen when I get an idea for a new beer. Like when I put together my Fig Pudding Porter, oh it came out good but I think it would have been better with less in it. So far as the actual brewing though, I trust the process that has been used longer than I care to think about, no over thinking to it and as far as your wort getting down to 57, my Tudor ale has been fermenting at 64, so no worries mate.

Cheers Brother!
Spot on on the over thinking.  I went through a phase of making all sorts of complex and out there brews, now I aim for consistent beers that fit the profile and let the individual ingredients shine through.  
 
Interesting, my sweet spot for beers always seems to be 1066, giving me a about a 6.5% brew or a little higher.  I have done some nice mid strength, but I drink less with a higher ABV, and the alcohol at this level seems to add support to the other flavours without dominating. 
 
The fermenter freezer, if I am interpreting your request correctly, is a fridge or freeze run with a temp control box with 2 inputs that allows you to set a temperature - the fridge goes into the cool, and the heat belt goes into the heat around the fermenter.  The temp control box has a thermometer that you tape to the fermenter.  Once you have reached final gravity and given the yeast a couple of days to clean up after itself, you set it down to a little above freezing, to drop the yeast out of suspension, which will help greatly with clarity.  I let mine sit for 4-5 days chilling, before kegging. 
 
This is my weapon of choice
 
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/stc-1000
 
Easy to wire up a box in an afternoon, or you can find a few about with the box made up for you.  It transformed the quality and finish of my beers, and enables you to make a greater range of beers, from saison (high temp) to lager (not that I make lager, life is too short for the return lol).  
 
Nice GM. Looks like it's finally started fermenting.

You only need to sanitize the things that are going to come in contact with the beer, or inside the beer vessel itself. If you are not returning the sample to the jug, no need to sanitize the hydrometer.

The action of fermentation can be observed in the krausen, which you have, and bubbling in the airlock or blowoff jug does NOT by itself mean it is fermentating, but rather a sign of gas escaping the vessel, which can be a good indicator of fermentation.

Shine a flashlight on the side of the jug and you should be able to see everything moving around in there like it's alive. Cause it is.

As fermentation slows it will become more difficult to tell if it's still actively fermenting. The airlock may even stop bubbling completely (which is why bubbling alone is not a definitive way to tell). At that point the only way to know is to take gravity readings until the gravity no longer changes.

Though, if you just leave it for 2-3 weeks, after about 10 days you can be pretty confident all activity is done, with out the need to draw precious samples every day.
 
Bumper, BeerSmith has put several of my recipes at that 1.046 however I've found that it doesn't have all the ingredients that I might use so the actual OG will usually be much higher. An example would be the Tudie Ale that I current have in Secondary. It uses Sage to bitter rather than hops, though the recipe called for a small amount of hops, so I had to add Sage as a flavoring and BeerSmith has the IBUs really low. Tasted the wort when I racked it over and it was nicely bitter and a touch sweet.

I put my build for an STC-1000 on here, I love it, gives great control. On Home Brew Talk someone figured out how to reprogram the STC-1000 so it would read degreesF and do a bunch of things for Brewers so, I'm going to have to order another one and see if the reprogram works. Then I'll build a new one for fermenting and probably use the one I have for a Kegerator.
 
HigherThisHeat said:
Nice GM. Looks like it's finally started fermenting.

You only need to sanitize the things that are going to come in contact with the beer, or inside the beer vessel itself. If you are not returning the sample to the jug, no need to sanitize the hydrometer.

The action of fermentation can be observed in the krausen, which you have, and bubbling in the airlock or blowoff jug does NOT by itself mean it is fermentating, but rather a sign of gas escaping the vessel, which can be a good indicator of fermentation.

Shine a flashlight on the side of the jug and you should be able to see everything moving around in there like it's alive. Cause it is.

As fermentation slows it will become more difficult to tell if it's still actively fermenting. The airlock may even stop bubbling completely (which is why bubbling alone is not a definitive way to tell). At that point the only way to know is to take gravity readings until the gravity no longer changes.

Though, if you just leave it for 2-3 weeks, after about 10 days you can be pretty confident all activity is done, with out the need to draw precious samples every day.
 
Totally ...
 
Hard to hold the slippery sanitized glass thief in my slippery sanitized hand, while holding the slippery sanitized cap/tube in my other slippery sanitized hand ...
 
In other news, I hope the StarSan comes today w/ an order ... the Brooklyn sanitizer (constituted from crystals in pack) is thick and slippery as all hell!
 
I have a feeling I can switch to airlock on this anytime, really ... it's not a very active fermentation in terms of overwhelming the airlock, probably (thinking about the general lack of carbonation of stouts in general, kind of) ...
 
I need to free myself from being a human PID controller for fermentation, though ... sooner than later.
 
I can utilize a chest freezer for beer, or food, to good effect, so I'll probably consider going forth w/ that sooner than later - once I figure out what size I want ...
 
When you have keg'd beer, in a keg, in cooler, and you first tap the keg - what kind of timeline are you on from the moment you tap the keg? In terms of said beer ...
 
Any input appreciated!
 
HigherThisHeat said:
Haha again??
 
Yup.
 
This is a bit of an experiment in process, perhaps beyond the result ...
 
I'm thinking that I can go into the kitchen, spend 30 mins getting mash water up, mash in, and then throw the pot into the oven, which has a 1/2" slab of SS in it for thermal mass, and will have been given an hour's worth of 170F pre-loading into the steel ... I won't be running the oven during the mash unless I notice that it's out of range, and I'm planning to let it go longer - 90 min too, I think ... I'm expecting to be able to do my work while this is happening, and then stop to pull it out, sparge it and bring it up to a boil for another 30-45 minutes, and then give it a few drops of Fermcap-S and go back to work until the bell rings for the 1st hop drop ... etc ...
 
I'm not planning to ask Danielle to help, until the end of the boil, when it's time to sanitize the funnel and tube and cap and lid for the pot when it's sitting in the ice-bath in the sink ...
 
This time I won't bring it down so low, it just happened faster than I expected last time ...
 
Hoping this process can be interleaved w/ work better than the 1st time, now that I have an idea how it goes ...
 
Grapefruit Honey Ale - coming up ...
 
What's with sending out a kit expecting people to have dried grapefruit peel around, too? WTF? ...
 
I actually do have a half a grapefruit peel, oddly enough, but it's not dry ... I wonder if I throw it in the oven at 170F for the whole 3 hrs, if it'll be "dry enough" ? ...
 
Medicated ...

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BBS's Grapefruit Honey Ale coming up ...

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will check the temp in 30m, oven's off, letting the steel slab maintain heating ...

mashed into 155F water instead of 160F, since then oven can't be set below 170F ...

coming up next week: chocolate maple porter and summer wheat ...

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and then i'll be doing midwest's pride of dublin stout ...

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and then we'll see what's next ... thinking i might inquire w/ wheebz about a barley, water, and hops german purity brew ... i like root cooks.

cheers!
 
Ended up pulling the mash out and adding heat on the range for the second 30 mins, and then mashed out up to 166-167F ...

Some pics ...

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recirc ...

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post whirl pool after I load the 'menter ...

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ten min manual whirlpool after flame out ...

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took longer w/ ice-packs than ice ...

serious sludge in the filters going into fermenter, held back the bottom of the pot ...

ended up 1L short again? ... added a Fiji ...

boil too hard? ... wasn't rolling, even ... looked the surface above a diver ...

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pitched yeast ... shook better ...

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changed the stout to airlock ...

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and into the bag ...

2L prob right tonight, two in there, on the hot side, more airspace ...

i think i stirred the mash too much or something ... MUCH sludge!

hops right up front, and bitter grapefruit, out of meter ...

So, I guess the temp adjusted OG is 1049, right?

broke a fermenter jug tonight, so no more brewing for at least a week ... probably.
 
keep them out of the light as much as possible
 
skunky beer is no bueno


totally, they've been living in a closed cooler, and now in the cool brewer bag ... just took the other out to switch it to an airlock (from blow-off tube) ...

thanks for looking out ...
 
HigherThisHeat said:
Don't those laser thermometers only read the surface of whatever you point it at? There's no way that can be reading deep in the grain bed what the temp is...
 
I used the glass thermometer, too, last night ... and compared them ... they were within 2 degrees from one another everywhere I checked ...
 
I'm not advocating the use of laser thermometers, but as a quick diagnostic, it's handy ...
 
There's a gradient in the grain bed during the mash - mine was 12 degrees different top to bottom (bottom higher) ...
 
I tried to keep the bottom under 152F, and the top ran between 134-146F from what I could tell during the 2nd half of the mash (the 1st half it was in the oven - which didn't work, btw) ...
 
YT filled w/ shitty brewing practices ...
 
I wonder what I've made ...
 
PS - I think, though, that for trying to stir that bed, I made a lot of starches or flour or something, and I'll be amazed if this thing doesn't have 1.5" of sediment on the bottom within a couple of days ...
 
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