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Queequeg grows stuff, and fixes junk.

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plants:
if they look crumy, its because they are.
need water and ive been lazy, ill go back out there and water them at some point today.
also got SMASHED last night by some nasty wind...
 




victim of mine, not the wind. pvc hose sliped off the table and snapped it.
serrano dosent seem to care though. we shall see what happens...





lettuce plants.



cactus plants.



tobacco plants from last winter... i chopped these down to a stump but they grew back. ive not watered these what so ever since last... december ?
no clue why they are alive still.



fertigation machine. in pieces.

my intention here is to shrink the system down substantiall.... such that it fits into the trunk of my car. im going to fold my old design into 2 pieces... and push the frame out into the third dimension.
im also going to add a filtration system. the filtration will require a far more substantial pump, so im going to just mount this onto the frame as well as the filter.





my fancy pump. grundfos up15-58 with a custom plastic head from some other hydronic heating company.



can anyone identify this plug? if so i will kiss your mouth.
spent like an hour on the molex website... im 60% sure its not a molex branded connector.



 
Scoville DeVille said:
$7 at The Home Depot, Sanded or Non Sanded, and will match any color of grout you have. (Polyblend)
acryllic latex without any silicone? that sticks well to tile in your experiance?

urethanes and STPE sealants are far and away better than silicone, acrylic latex, and bitimunious sealants at keeping their flexibility over time, this is mostly why id like to use one. i can tell from experiance that silicone caulks, ESPECIALLY the cheap clear ones shrink like all hell and come up in huge lines... even with proper cleaning and alcohol wipe preping etc.
acrylic latex is what i use to air seal and it gets very hard with time. like old bubblegum. urethane and the polyethers do not. they stay flexable for a very very long time, hence their use in expansion joints.

idk. you brought up a good point though... sanded. i had not considered that. i figured on a smooth caulk as this was for the junction from tile to vinyl window? do you use sanded caulks here?
 
queequeg152 said:
acryllic latex without any silicone? that sticks well to tile in your experiance?
That's not what I said.
 
Untitled.jpg

 
post-4713-0-56762700-1459434724_thumb.jpg

 
Sanded caulk is to match sanded grout. The rule of thumb here is:
grout joint <⅛" non sanded.
grout joint >⅛" sanded.
 
Same with caulk.
 
It's the only caulk I ever use. Tile to wood, tile to vinyl, tile to cast iron, tile to concrete etc etc etc.
 
hmmm. had a dream last night.

i was trying to put up tile, but my thumbs kept sinking into the tiles... like they were made from wet clay.

need to finish this thing.
 
ok so shower shit first, then plant shit.

niche framing.





1/4" durock added.



temporary support





3/8" marble tiile i use to make the niche sills. 12x24" tile is only like 12 bucks.



first sill. can you spot the fuckup? i forgot to add the length of the subway tiles.



random tile picture?



another.



cutting radius. i still had not realized my mistake.



still fucked up.



pic of waterproofing... and new sill after i realized i fucked up.



fucked up sill ontop of new sill so you can see the gap.



testing



second fuck up. veins of brown shit cause flaking, bad bad flaking.



hard to see but there is a layer of this shit... i should have seen this when i bought the tile i guess. live and learn.



pics of the marble polishing kit. im very impressed with it. for just circular polishing its quite good. not perfect, but good enough imo.



theres like 10 of these things in 5 different grades. i only use 3 of the grades... 5 seems excessive tbh.

they are like a foam material impregnated with abrasive.



had to replace ac contactor.



this is like 1st stage polishing. very rough, just to get the general shape down.


BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUMP
 
bump?

this is wht the final polish looks like.
camera flash makes it look better than it actually is... if you hold it up to the light you can see its not quite as good as the factory finish on the top of the tile... but its plenty good for my tastes.





proper sill.





ripping window sill. 48+ inches long. needed a saw feed to rip this thing.
i was very impressed at how well my shitty little tile saw handled the 5/8" marble threshold material.



test fitting



another polish pic.



tape is to protect the sill from drips of thinset.



niches.









ok plant stuff now.


here they are like 2 weeks ago?



crazy hail.



hail f**ked up my nanner plant =(.



haha can you see the hail? i could be random orbs? but i think i caught the hail on camera here.



melons



peppers



toms



melon flower.



flordia state special tomatos.



BEANS!

 
pics from an hour or so ago.



tom flowers... gonna need to find my shitty toothbrush pollinator.



BEANS!



peppers doing their thing.



melon graft union.



this is the melon i grafted upside down. it ended up surviving, but its so far behind im just tossing it.



melons.



so far only my pollinators are flowering. this is a pollenator female flower. the melon will probably abort, but this is that they look like.

 
Scoville DeVille said:
Looking good man.
FYI: I would not leave that tape on the Marble, it will absorb the adhesive from the tape and you'll never get it off.
shit you are probably right. ill take that shit off when i get back.
 
SCOVIEEEEE

what do you think about this material? seems perfect to me? wonder if its as strong as the kerdi boards?
fuck id have to drive to dallas to get it? fucking hell.
 
oh wow you dont even waterproof this? ... idk about that. i was assuming it had to be hydro banned or some other liquid membrane.
 
grantmichaels said:
psst - you'll never get the kind of polish on top, on the profile of the stone ;) ...

that's a poured resin on top ...
resin? but its so porous? i mean... a drop of water does not even bead up it quite literally soaks into the marble.

hell i set two... knee wall tops- what ever they are called, and you could actually see the wet spot in the middle of the marble where it was pulling moisutre up from the 3/8" thinset underneath. it went away in like an hour, but still.

the top is clearly very porous.

do you have any reccomendations on a sealer btw? i was going to just buy the generic dupont shit they sell at the flooring place i go to buy marble.
 
the resin is poured across the backside, and flows through, filling the fissures, and then they polish it up to a lustre that you will not match on the profile ...
and yes, it's very porous ...

don't stain it with wine, and especially not acids like OJ ...

the best sealer is the stuff for Sensa ... not sure you can get it in small amounts.

Dry Treat is good, too: http://www.drytreat.com/sealers/

dat Sensa, tho ...

"Cosentino subjects the granite to an invisible long-lasting treatment, capable of chemically incorporating itself into the material while still letting it breathe. This technology increases its powerful natural properties and prolongs its useful life. The process alters the surface tension of the granite, causing the material itself to prevent liquids such as water, coffee or oil from penetrating it.

In addition, Sensa is, thanks to the materials own natural characteristics, able to retain its colour and protect itself from alterations caused by sunlight and UV radiation."
 
grantmichaels said:
the resin is poured across the backside, and flows through, filling the fissures, and then they polish it up to a lustre that you will not match on the profile ...
and yes, it's very porous ...

don't stain it with wine, and especially not acids like OJ ...

the best sealer is the stuff for Sensa ... not sure you can get it in small amounts.

Dry Treat is good, too: http://www.drytreat.com/sealers/

dat Sensa, tho ...

"Cosentino subjects the granite to an invisible long-lasting treatment, capable of chemically incorporating itself into the material while still letting it breathe. This technology increases its powerful natural properties and prolongs its useful life. The process alters the surface tension of the granite, causing the material itself to prevent liquids such as water, coffee or oil from penetrating it.

In addition, Sensa is, thanks to the materials own natural characteristics, able to retain its colour and protect itself from alterations caused by sunlight and UV radiation."
oooh i had not thought of that.
i think i know what you are talking about. some of the more expensive marbles had these really high contract veins of shit making all these interesting patterns. i saw a few that had outright holes in places.
im guessing the resins are supposed to fill in these larger holes as well? and match the marble to some extent? the stuff i saw with the large obivious holes was "black" marble.

this sensa stuff appears to be made for granite?
 
queequeg152 said:
ah they do make some marble stuff for home owners, senguard. its like 150 bucks through. and they dont sell smaller bottles.
 
yeah, it is the best stuff there is, and a tiny amount goes a long way ... but yeah, the $ is harsh ...
queequeg152 said:
oooh i had not thought of that.
i think i know what you are talking about. some of the more expensive marbles had these really high contract veins of shit making all these interesting patterns. i saw a few that had outright holes in places.
im guessing the resins are supposed to fill in these larger holes as well? and match the marble to some extent? the stuff i saw with the large obivious holes was "black" marble.

this sensa stuff appears to be made for granite?
 
all granite has some fill, honestly, except for the individual variations that have really high cohesion ...
 
colors like tropical brown and the marinace varieties don't need fill, usually ...
 
(black marinace - with a very limited amount of brown - is probably my fav granite ...
 
grantmichaels said:
 
yeah, it is the best stuff there is, and a tiny amount goes a long way ... but yeah, the $ is harsh ...

 
all granite has some fill, honestly, except for the individual variations that have really high cohesion ...
 
colors like tropical brown and the marinace varieties don't need fill, usually ...
 
(black marinace - with a very limited amount of brown - is probably my fav granite ...
 
i forgot to ask you earlier, but one of the marble pieces has a deep scratch about 1" long. i did not discover it when i bough it...i was more concerned with getting two pieces that matches and i fucking missed it.
 
how should i go about hiding it? is there some fill material i can push into the scratch? its pretty deep... id say its about 50 thousandths deep, or like 1/32" so i have no illusions about ereasing it.
 
i was thinking about getting buffing wheel and loading it up some sort of grit?  like this(see below)? but i thought id ask first... because filling it sounds easier than trying to buff it out.
 
http://www.pjtool.com/tapered-buffs.aspx
 
i think if i can just ease the edges of the scratch i can make it less obivious
 
i also bought some stone sealer... curious to see how the sealer effects the scratch's contrast. a got a small pint of dupont bullet proof.
i dont usually opt for the cheap option, but in this case i really dont want to buy a quart of good stuff only to use  like 50ml... i already have a 1 gallon container of cedar stain im stuck with... only used like 5% of it to stain 4 cedar columns. 
 
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