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Queequeg grows stuff, and fixes junk.

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plants:
if they look crumy, its because they are.
need water and ive been lazy, ill go back out there and water them at some point today.
also got SMASHED last night by some nasty wind...
 




victim of mine, not the wind. pvc hose sliped off the table and snapped it.
serrano dosent seem to care though. we shall see what happens...





lettuce plants.



cactus plants.



tobacco plants from last winter... i chopped these down to a stump but they grew back. ive not watered these what so ever since last... december ?
no clue why they are alive still.



fertigation machine. in pieces.

my intention here is to shrink the system down substantiall.... such that it fits into the trunk of my car. im going to fold my old design into 2 pieces... and push the frame out into the third dimension.
im also going to add a filtration system. the filtration will require a far more substantial pump, so im going to just mount this onto the frame as well as the filter.





my fancy pump. grundfos up15-58 with a custom plastic head from some other hydronic heating company.



can anyone identify this plug? if so i will kiss your mouth.
spent like an hour on the molex website... im 60% sure its not a molex branded connector.



 
Click to expand...
your list looks reasonable, but yea i would go exploring first. before you buy anything. 
 
cut away a square like you said. if you discover more bad drywall, just make the square a rectangle and keep going untill you find no damaged drywall.
 
you can buy strips of softwood at home depot for furring strips... OR buy the metal drywall clips. the metal clips are like 50 cents a pop... so if you need like 12, you will be paying out the ass. they work well though.
 
most home depot  places sell these 2x2 drywall patch panels... if you can getaway with one of those you will save yourself a bunch of bullshit... cutting drywall at the store and driving it home.
 
harborfrieght has reasonable drywall tools...i still use the harbor frieght 12" knife. you probably only need a taping knife though.
 
i recommend fibafuse for joint tape if you can find it. its far easier to use imo. its available at lowes here.
 
i HIGHLY recommend you get a cheap rasp. i like to rasp down the cut edges after i snap a drywall piece. i usually cut like an eighth short, and rasp down any other areas that are stopping the board from fitting.  i use a surform pocket plane and this edge rasp thing i got on amazon. the pocket plane does like 99% of the work though.
 
i reccomend you use regular water based vinyl joint compound... it drys slowly, but its far easier to sand down compared to cement based compounds that dry far faster. i only use cement junk for patching little marble sized holes or maby a bit bigger. anything bigger, ill just cut out a 4x4 patch and trace it out onto the damaged drywall and cut where i traced with my oscillating tool.
 
for what ever reason the cement based stuff seems "stickier"... it sticks to old gypsum surfaces better compared to the water based stuff.
 
water based joint compound shrinks like hell though, so you have to put it down in thin lifts. if you are trying to build something way up, you might be better off with a cement spackle... they shrink very little.
 
this thing. its like 10 bucks at home depot.
 
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-21-399-6-Inch-Surform-Pocket/dp/B00002X1ZQ
 
Hey thanks man. I imagine you probably saved me at least $20 as well as 2 or 3 extra trips to Home Depot. I sure hope I can get away with a 2x2 panel. I'm copy and pasting your reply to take with me to the store. Truly appreciated! I'll post up a few pics of the repair process this weekend.
 
Chewi said:
Hey thanks man. I imagine you probably saved me at least $20 as well as 2 or 3 extra trips to Home Depot. I sure hope I can get away with a 2x2 panel. I'm copy and pasting your reply to take with me to the store. Truly appreciated! I'll post up a few pics of the repair process this weekend.
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np.
 
if you have a lowes in your area, i really reccomend going there for fibafuse tape. its worth the extra hassle for newbs like you and me because it makes taping virtually idiot proof.
 
ive used paper tape for all sorts of shit and 90% of the time it works perfectly... but 10% of the time when you fuckup its a nightmare... cutting out bubbles takes alot of time and sanding and re taping and it all just blows dicks.
 
fibafuse sort of soaks up the taping compound so bubbles are impossible.
 
i dont think pros like it because it usually needs an extra pass with some compound, but IDK. it seems so much easier to me.
 
it is fiberglass though. its like fiberglass fleece or geotextile type fabric.  i dont have one of those belt hooks that holds the tape roll so i like to just hold it on my shoulder or chest with my chin... you cant do that with fibafuse, it made my neck all itchy and gross.
 
going to try and update every week from now on, what with plants and their tendency to grow.
 
melons are about a week old at the moments. rootstock is about 5 days old. 
 
here they are at like 36-48 hours. 
 

 

 
next day
 

 

 
 
only bean to sprout. 3 other seeds failed. ill start a few more... id like atleast three bean plants to f**k with.
 

 
rootstock
 

 
rootstock pushing its way out.
 

 
same deal
 

 

 
here they are today
 

 
melons today
 

 
toms, peppers and melons.
 


 
 
final plumbing. flow tested everything.,.. blew down all the shower lines shut it down at the mixing valve
 

 

 
started putting up durock. here is the window framing. the white blocks are pvc pieces. i needed to even out the opening to 3" interger values so that tile grout lines more or less line up on the tiled return.
 

 
more durock.
 

 
 
popping bean seeds. these things pop damn fast... this is 72 hours at room temps.
 

 
seed flat is inside untill saturday. bad wind and rain and now low temps dropping into the 40's.
 

 
 
seed flat was outside for THREE DAYS!!! and look! a damned critter.  THREE DAYS!! i mushed em with my finger nail.
 

 

beans emerging.
 

 
root stock is EXPLODING.... sadly i dont think they will be graftable. they simply out grew the triploid melons. oh well. next time ill plant these like 10 days later.
 
i even had the rootstock under t8 verses a 255 watt PLL fixture for the triploid melons...
 

idk actually, maby i can still side graft them. ill look at them over the weekend. i only have 3 mm clips... but maby i can make something happen with the parafilm.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ybfXC-2PQE&ebc=ANyPxKohKi9O4ROICxNdJGjQP0q_dP-fHw3cL1gO7smJqJGnRDP93kpnrKBheXjYtIkPrEr017KJV03NpPWxmyZznBerjIcOtg
 
queequeg152 said:
root stock is EXPLODING.... sadly i dont think they will be graftable. they simply out grew the triploid melons. oh well. next time ill plant these like 10 days later.
 
i even had the rootstock under t8 verses a 255 watt PLL fixture for the triploid melons...
 
 
dk actually, maby i can still side graft them. ill look at them over the weekend. i only have 3 mm clips... but maby i can make something happen with the parafilm.
Click to expand...
 
Does the root stock & the plant you are planning on grafting to it need to be roughly the same diameter or something? I've always found the idea of grafting interesting but never had anything to try it with. 
 
TXCG said:
 
Does the root stock & the plant you are planning on grafting to it need to be roughly the same diameter or something? I've always found the idea of grafting interesting but never had anything to try it with. 
Click to expand...
 
it does for tube grafting.
 
not so much for side grafting, but they need to be close.  side grafting is easy, but requires plants to be a bit taller.  ill look at them over the weekend and decide what im going to do.
 
all my grafting plans are shot this season. my maxifort seeds are trashed.... barely 30% germination. i guess i should have kept them in the frige or something.
 
RIght on. Well hopefully you manage to get some to take at least so the whole season isn't shot. Good luck with the rest of your 2016 season.
 
TXCG said:
RIght on. Well hopefully you manage to get some to take at least so the whole season isn't shot. Good luck with the rest of your 2016 season.
Click to expand...
 
nah the season wont be shot. infact grafting would likely have little effect on anything other than increasing yield slightly and increazing the total suspended solids of the melons... grafting is more for fun.
 
none of what im growing is heirloom or delicate or prone to disease or anything like that. they are all hybrid commercial cultivars with documented resistances. 
 
problem was i could not find any documents regarding my rootstock. with maxifort there is plenty of junk online telling you to start the seeds in waves 4 6 and 8 days after you seed your scions... but nothing for the gourd rootstock.
 
i panicked and poped them when i saw the melons emerging so soon.
 
went ahead and grafted 4 extazy's and 3 leopards.
 
i have 2 rootstocks left. im letting them fill out a a bit and ill try and graft them to the smaller diameter leopards i have left.
 
went alot easier than i imagined... considering how approach grafts work, i think i stand a decent chance of success despite the mismatched sizes.
 
worst case scenario i still have 5 leopards and 5 extazys and a shitload of toms to fill out the trellis.
 
i assumed at least some of the grafted plants would have failed by now, but alas this is not the case.  no wilting, no necrotic shrunken down shit around the graft union yet.
 
i took the clip off the most grossly mis matched plant... thinking by now it would have separated as was the case last time i tried tub grafting toms to peppers... but no, its quite firm. i even tugged on it a bit to see if it slipped at all, but no. it seems to be stuck in some fashion.
 
i FUCKED UP the shower mud pan.
 
hollow sounding... unbonded from the slab. im going to tear it out this weekend and redo it.  pictures to follow.
 
second mud pan went very well. 16 hours and no hollow sound yet.
 
used a concrete mixer this time and my brother helped out. the concrete mixer was not very helpful to be honest... but having a second person was VERY helpful... i used a polymer modified thinset instead of a bonding agent this time. it was some fancy thinset made for large format tiles... mapei LFT something. surface finish was not as good as before, but i think thats because i went alot faster. less time slicking it down. 
 
 
few gouge marks where i dug in with the trowel, but i think i fan fill those in with thinset. they are fairly small.
 
pics to follow.
 
ok here was the first shower pan.  it was incomplete. i fucked up the math and was short 4 bags out of 14.  when it cured around 48 hours it sounded hollow on about 50% of  mud pan so i decided to tear it out and start over at a loss of about 90 bucks worth of mortar.
 

 
shit wad of tile.
 

 
bad pan comeing out.
 

 
mostly out.
 

 
all out. tookl about 2 hours total... the bonding agent was very tedious to remove.
 

 
new pan. two things done differently.
 
1. i decided to use a screed guide, similar to how one grades a slope on a parking lot or patio. 
 
2. i went with a polymer modified thinset instead of a straight up bonding agent.
 
here is the screed guide. i spent a good hour and a half with the lazer and level checking and rechecking and adjusting this thing.
 

 
three screed boards. i attached a piece of pvc i ripped to slide along the top of the screed guide. the screed guides are placed such that the top of the guide elevation - the screed board width = the shower pan finished elevation.  these boards are milled MDF trim board things that are painted... i found them at home depot. they are very straight.
 

 
second shower pan finished.
 

 
about a days cure.
 
 
finish was not as nice as the first one... its a bit sandier, but im guessing its down to the fact i spent alot less time with the finishing trowel and used less water in the mortar mix.
 
i dug in with my trowel in like 5 places. i filled these small dents in with thinset. i do not have pics though.
 

 
guide boards removed. note the raised bit. this is shaved down with this carbide concrete sanding block thing i have.
 

 
partially sanded flush.
 

 
onto the plants... its supposed to rain a shit load tomorrow, 4 inches supposedly.  all my plants are indoors atm as they are not going to apreciate so much water in this early stage of growth.
 
ill get some pics of them up later on when they go outside and i can get them all in one picture.
 
here are the grafted plants though.
 

 
graft union with clip removed.
 
the union started fattening up like 4 days ago and the plants are really kicking back into high gear. roots are exploding. transplanted into solocups and roots hit the bottom in 2 days.
 

 

 
all 6 are alive and thriving. today was day 8 or 9... according to the university of flordia, on the 9th day i am to cut off the rootstock scion. so i did.
 
rootstock scion was hollow... like a milkweed.
 

 
 
i cut off the melon roots last night. this morning two started wilting when the lights came on.
 
the two that look to be failing are the ones that i slit in the wrong direction... scion was slitted upwards now downwards. i think thats why they failed.
 
2 leopards, 3 extaxzy for sure made it. the two that are wilting may make it but idk.
 
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