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Queequeg grows stuff, and fixes junk.

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plants:
if they look crumy, its because they are.
need water and ive been lazy, ill go back out there and water them at some point today.
also got SMASHED last night by some nasty wind...
 




victim of mine, not the wind. pvc hose sliped off the table and snapped it.
serrano dosent seem to care though. we shall see what happens...





lettuce plants.



cactus plants.



tobacco plants from last winter... i chopped these down to a stump but they grew back. ive not watered these what so ever since last... december ?
no clue why they are alive still.



fertigation machine. in pieces.

my intention here is to shrink the system down substantiall.... such that it fits into the trunk of my car. im going to fold my old design into 2 pieces... and push the frame out into the third dimension.
im also going to add a filtration system. the filtration will require a far more substantial pump, so im going to just mount this onto the frame as well as the filter.





my fancy pump. grundfos up15-58 with a custom plastic head from some other hydronic heating company.



can anyone identify this plug? if so i will kiss your mouth.
spent like an hour on the molex website... im 60% sure its not a molex branded connector.



 
Click to expand...
queequeg152 said:
 
 
cool. im glad to hear the little root nubs are hearty...  im going to start sectioning them this evening. i think ill put them roots face down into the DRY coir for like... a week? then wet the coir out to get them rooting and fire up the T8 light?
 
do you use a fan to dry out the cuts? ive done it both ways... didnt notice much difference to be honest. not like i have two fans to put on both ends anyway.
Click to expand...
 
 
     Sounds good. As long as your light isn't too intense, they should do fine. Just water super conservatively at first - don't give them more than they can use.
     I don't think a fan would make any appreciable difference. Healing wounds on cacti isn't so much about drying out. (I hacked mine back this morning and they're already "dry".) It's all about allowing time for the plant to develop a skin ("dermis" and "epidermis") of undifferentiated callus cells on the cut surface. As long as the wound is kept unwet during that time, the cactus will do its thing. 
 
haha you see that tile job up there scoville?

i just remembered a few days back that i lied to you when i said i had not done tile work since i was like 14.

i had to replace all the tile around that pool skimmer like 3 years ago... was leaking through a joint. the old tile is no longer made, which is fine because its ugly. went with that fancy pool tile mosaic stuff.
was outrageously expensive like 15 bucks a square foot!!!. apparently its special pool tile... glazed front and back.

i didnt even have a grout float, nor did i even know wtf that was. all done with a cold chistle and my fingers!!!
 
:rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:
 
LOLOL Don't feel bad, it took about 2 months to do our own bathroom that was only 93 hours total. (I keep meticulous records).
 
Nice finger job QQ. Good thing it was mosaics! I grouted a shower one time with rubber gloves. True story. It was a PIA customer about 65 miles miles away from anywhere and I had forgotten my floats. Yep, I put the rubber gloves on and fingered the grout in the entire shower. That was one of those jobs that I was glad as hell to not get a call-back.
 
cocks.



lovely cactus cuttings sent to me by the attractive hybrid mode.

i had a bad dream where my feet were slapping around in about an inch of dirty axe body wash water... so i had to be certain in order to get back to restful sleep.



fooling around with stuff and junk



stuff and junk thinsetted down for good. its there for ever.



broken tom stem that refuses to rot out.



ph electode i bought from this guy in houston who makes em.



trellis tension is only at like 200 lbs right now.



guy wires.



things.



idk why i took this pic... i think it had something to do with flower truss spacing, but fuck that you cant see shit in this picture.



another thing.



mite damage. already sprayed with abamectin



water melon damage... this is due to huge rainfalls washing out the fertilizer charge, and me not replacing the fertilizer charge for like a week.



comeing back now.



something else here.



some junk here... ignore dirty pool.



asshole spiny ass gay ass wierd plant thing thats taking over the area. im spraying it with diquat because i hate it.



snapped stem... this is what happens when you get lazy with toms.

 
is it unusual for grout color to still be uneven 24 hours later?
 
the grout around the drain, which i did separately is still slightly darker.
 
Different mixes can definitely have color differences. You should ALWAYS mix as much as you need and grout it all at once. There is also a depression where the weep holes are that can hold more moisture and make that area take longer to cure. That's  the second possibility. The third possibility is efflorescence, which is mineral build up from the water, used to mix the grout, and wipe it. Usually a light color "calcium" looking shit. If you didn't do a thorough enough wiping job on the main floor area, it will look lighter due to this effect. I don't think that's what happened though, my thought is different mixes. What brand of grout is it? If you tell me Mapei.. then fuck you, I hate that shit. LOL Just kidding. If you think it's efflorescence, let me know, I'll give you instructions for that. Otherwise, just use the shower (After a good quality, expensive sealer. You get what you pay for).
 
Its the stuff you told me to buy. the polyblend sanded in delorian grey. 50% water replaced with stain defender instead of the stuff you reccomended. they didnt have the stuff you reccomended here in my store. made by the same company though.
 
i did the floor in 3 batches... back, then front, then a tiny batch just around the drain. i wanted to spent alot of time on the drain such that the polished steel was revealed properly. thats what that little finger nail brush was for in that pic above.
 
here is the thing though...when i wet the tile the grout all looks the same. 
 
like you said the area around that drain has that depression... where the bonding flange drain sits down low( no weep holes btw.) when you set the drain you are supposed to screed thinset out over that depression then screw out the threaded drain thing untill you hit your elevation bang on. 
 
could that extra 1/4" of thinset screed be causing this? i would think that extra thinset would be causing the grout to dry FASTER though... sucking the moisture out of the grout?

oh and yea, i finger packed in the grout that touches the steel drain frame. it was very deep like 1/2" deep so i figured the grout float would not get it that deep so i used meh fingers. its not just that grout line though, its the grout i packed in that third batch ontop of the bonding flange depression thing.
 
ok i guess im a worrying lady. the grout is perfectly matched now. i guess it was just a bit wetter than the rest? idk.

still fucked up the drain though. gota re do that with caulk.
 
Caulk around shower drains is a no no. Caulk does not allow vapor transmission so it traps water and grows bacteria and mold. It's good to hear that it dried the same color. That additional thickness of thinest is what caused it to dry slower. Tile also does not allow vapor transmission so water in the additional thinset takes longer to dry. Think about it, there is only one way for that thinest to dry, evaporation. The water in the thinset can't go down, it has to evaporate up and the glazing on the tile slows that process, so the thicker layer of thinest will take longer to "dry".
 
Your drain does have weep holes. I hope they didn't get clogged with that green shit because otherwise there will be a permanent pool of water around your drain. It is a misconception that water does not get under the tile. It does in fact drain under the tile. The tile is basically just the surface you walk on. Water drains or "migrates" under the tile, through the thinset toward the drain, hence the sloped pan and the weep holes.
 
Here is a picture showing the weep holes under the drain flange, they are all different but the principle is the same. Without weep holes, the water cannot drain.
 
71UvU+VatgL._SX355_.jpg

 
image003small_zpsiojw1v3o.jpg

 
Your weep holes should be here around your drain flange. Without them, water must pool to get up and over the flange and thus, never completely drain, causing standing water, mold and all kinds of funky green shit. LOLOL.
image002small_zpsy3xgrx7m.jpg
 
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