Queequeg grows stuff, and fixes junk.

plants:
if they look crumy, its because they are.
need water and ive been lazy, ill go back out there and water them at some point today.
also got SMASHED last night by some nasty wind...
 




victim of mine, not the wind. pvc hose sliped off the table and snapped it.
serrano dosent seem to care though. we shall see what happens...





lettuce plants.



cactus plants.



tobacco plants from last winter... i chopped these down to a stump but they grew back. ive not watered these what so ever since last... december ?
no clue why they are alive still.



fertigation machine. in pieces.

my intention here is to shrink the system down substantiall.... such that it fits into the trunk of my car. im going to fold my old design into 2 pieces... and push the frame out into the third dimension.
im also going to add a filtration system. the filtration will require a far more substantial pump, so im going to just mount this onto the frame as well as the filter.





my fancy pump. grundfos up15-58 with a custom plastic head from some other hydronic heating company.



can anyone identify this plug? if so i will kiss your mouth.
spent like an hour on the molex website... im 60% sure its not a molex branded connector.

 

[queequeg152]

ima restart this thing to document how good i am at building duct work.

ill just... vomit out all the shit stored on my camera first. i stopped taking pics of the shit im doing around for a while as i lost the camera for quite some time... but who cares.

can i get like 11 bumps?

 

[queequeg152]

this is my fertigation rig... i think i discussed it earlier on. idk wtf it is i am taking a picture of here.



this is the rotameter connection?? idk what this pic is for.



enclosure to hold the ph analyzer and conductivity analyzer.



my irrigation controller. got this on ebay years and years ago. was like 25 bucks, works flawlessly.



here it is outside... i ended up redoing some of the plumbing w/ plumbing paste to deal with leaks at the solenoid connections.



did i show these trellis things yet?



toms n melons



melons




another melon



condensor fan died on me. i replaced it with a more modern motor, 1/5th hp instead of 1/4hp... supposedly moves the same cfm, but required a 7.5 mfd cap.



trying to get the old blades off... lol this was a disaster.



the white shit on my wrench is hand meat dug out when the wrench slipped lol.





old cap seemed to run the new motor fine... so i left it on untill i could get the new one in the mail.



these are dual caps... you will find them on almost all new equipment. basically they combine the compressor and fan run caps into one enclosure.



this is my BADASS manometer i got on ebay for like 50 bucks. back in the 1980's this thing would have costed like a grand easily.

its basically just a regular vertical manometer, but with an electrode on this depth micrometer. you need a special fluid for this thing to run well... basically a green dye + a surfactant to kill off the water meniscus.


new fan in place... note the new blades lol... the old blade was in fine shape... but hopelessly stuck in place.

its mostly my fault, i tried to break it loose by pushing it down farther on the shaft which i cleaned and lubed with penetrant...but this just got it stuck even more.

i put a fan blade puller tool on it, but it was basically 100% seized.

the new fan blade is more efficient anyway, and better balanced.



some melon



this MASSIVE fucking spider i found.



thats a regular size fork. i found what sort of spider this was... some kinda spider eating spider, i forget the name.

 

[tctenten]

Nice shit Q!

 

[queequeg152]

thanks.

ok, this is one of my vacuum pumps... i think i was going to email these photos to someone or something, ill just post them here because its cool.

this is the rear of the 2 stage pump cartrige. this pump does not have pumped lubrication... it was built in the 80's when they didnt think good.

this do dad on the back of the housing is a flapper that opens and closes to prevent vacuum from escaping when the cylinder is in the suction position, the clapper opens up via a centrifual cam during the pressure phase.



high quality batch labeling lolol... british.



lol check out that void in the aluminum casting... british.



1st and second stage exhaust valve positioners.



another thing



coupling and the IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCESS mounting bolts... british.



exhaust valve



whole cartrige.



seals



frist rotor.



second rotor



oil nozzle. i pushed a pin through to verify the size was right and it was not plugged. this nozzle sprays lube into the first stage.



teensy nozzle.



testing journal bearings.


super high tech setup.


bump this ho.

 

[tctenten]

Bump. Have no idea about any of this stuff...but cool to look at.

 

[queequeg152]

damn firefox crashed and my shit was not saved.
 

 

[queequeg152]

omg i just backed out of the second post. how do you restore saved shit again?
 
OK. take three.
 
new batts.
 

 
uplift resistance blah blah.
 

 
drywall
 

 
pocket door header.
 

 
soft close mechanism.
 

 

 
bracket that engages the soft close.
 

 
spring open mechansim.
 

 
momentary switch for auto closet light. 
 

 
another thing.
 

 
thermostat cable for radiant heater things.
 

 
proximity switch shuts off the closet lights when the door closes.
 

 
springy cover thing to conceal the lighting controller and light relay/timer.
 

 
said things.
 

 
installing door pulls.
 

 
hilarious 1/2" drywall screws.  the pocket door kits all have these 3/4" thick metal studs so you need these stupid teensy drywall screws.
 
never use 1/2" drywall screws for anything other than this. you want 1"to 3/4"  minimum penetration into the wood for any drwall hanging.
 

 
i cut a metal stud in half to provide backing for the drywall near the floor... something that is badly needed in these kits.
 

 
testing out the door
 

 
installing the pop open thing.
 

 
adjusting depth.
 

 

 
 
 

 

[Guatemalan Insanity Pepper]

 
 
 
bump *

 

[queequeg152]

lol hack job ductopus.

 

[queequeg152]

god without no script photobucket is literally useless... jesus this is like a 1998 porno site? who the fuck thought this was ok?

 

[queequeg152]

ok no more photobucket.
 
here is the door popout thing finally fitted.
 

 
first skim drywall
 

 
casing the jamb
 

 
magnet for the proximity switch
 

 
setting location of the magnet
 

 
painting door.
 

 
another one of the proximity switch
 

 
door bushings
 

 
lol nailing trim... i forgot there were metal studs back there.  it seriously took me like 2 minutes to figure out why the hell my nailer was fucking up.
 
then i was like oh derp.
 

 
hogging out some material to hide the bushings.
 

 
the hogged out trim sits ontop of the bushings
 

 
im using these fancy trim head screws. they have reverse threads that cut open a little path for the tiny trim head. work pretty well, not too expensive ether.  they are called GRK trim head screws or something like that.
 

 

[queequeg152]

then i went  out to finish the ceiling in the atrium area...
 

 
gutted and replaced all the old shitty #3 lumber, replaced with some no.2 hem-fir.  they dont have to be 100% straight because i still have to strap the ceiling with 1x3.  the vinyl needs support at 12" intervals so strapping is a must.
 

 
reinforcing old separating hip connections.
 

 
cut some holes for the accent lighting.
 

 
here is a welch 1402 vacuum pump i got from some med school liquidation auction.  it came with a pallet of shit... but for 120 bucks i got this fucking badass pump and a bunch of other shit i didnt really want... but what ever. 
 

 
here are some of those accent lights installed.
 

 
proper miters yo.
 

 
 

strapping the ceiling.
 

 
i got this neat little collapsing table on amazon. its a keter work table.
 

 
putting vinyl up.
 

 
relay box for new occupancy sensor.
 

 
testing out new sensor.
 

 
some crazy fog one night. looks like a bomb going off... its just an HPS street light glowing like the sun in the fog.
 

 

 
what happens when u use camera flash in heavy fog.
 

 
lol traffic lights.
 

 
 

 

[Scovie]

FWIW... You might want to lower your door guides so you don't get scratch lines on your door after 346 open/close cycles. My prefered door guides are hidden ones...

Hidden door guides.

 

[queequeg152]

yea man id love the hidden ones, but i dont have a router =(.
 
 
scratch lines hmm... yea i thought about that, big reason why i went with a "satin white" high quality paint( also i suck ass at painting so "satin" aka low gloss hides my horribleness).  i figured anything glossy would collect lines across the bushings.
 
problem is i putty'd over and painted the trim head screw holes already... i dont suppose you know of an easy way to get at these screws throught he putty? i have some fancy neodymium magnets, so i know i can FIND them... but getting my driver onto them through the putty?
 
then again id have to replace the trim anyway... im going to think about this when i go to do the second closet.
 
fwiw. i kept the second closet unfinished because i need it for storage of the shop vac and tools... the finished opening will be too narrow for the shop vac to roll through.
 
im not too lazy to finish the second one it in other words... thats my story and ill stick to it thanks.
 
idk why i located them that high up now that i think about it...  the picture you linked looks alot better, ill def. do the second door like that.
 
 

 

[Scovie]

Those door guides aren't supposed to be hidden or "buried" behind the trim. They should be exposed for future adjustments or replacement, they can wear out. Key word: CAN. They may not but solid core doors (like yours) are harder on them than the cardboard hollow core doors.

Yeah, just eat a can of spinach, turn your sailors cap around backwards and shove your driver bit through the putty.

I'm glad you brought this thread back!

 

[queequeg152]

so ill just unload the rest of these before i get onto the kitchen demo and plumbing and ducting... and the hall demo and plumbing and ducting... and the dining room demo and ducting.
 
this is how you get rid of like 44 lbs of frozen toms btw. i like to freeze the ones i cant give away and the ones that look bad from cracking or BER or russeting etc... basically all the ones you cant give away.
 
then when its cold out i put on my 3 gallon pressure cooker pot/ brew kettle ... put it on the lowest it can go. 
 

 
dont remove anything... it takes too long when they are frozen.  later when they are boiling mush you can pluck them out if you want... i dont but you can.
 

 
then u smash them down
 

 
then cook the water out. this was after like 12 hours maby more.
 

 
then i move it to the "warming" burner for another 8 hours or so... its this tiny burner on the back of the stove that basically is there to keep tea kettles warm. its probably the only time it gets used ever.
 

 
you stop when thee sides pull away from the pot... kinda like brownie mix? or is that cake mix?
 
i didnt get any pictures of the next part... but basically you put it through a food mill with a fine fine mesh.
 
this removes all the skins and seeds and stems.
 
then you ladel it all out onto a 1" deep tray and set your oven to its lowest setting.  my oven is built into my stove top ( whats that called again?), so it too has a "keep warm" setting... but i also wedge a wood ladle into the door so heat and humidity can escape.
 
i let the oven go for another 12 hours, or untill the tom soup starts to crack like dried clay...  like this but not so much... just around the corners and edges.
 

 
then you just sort of peel the paste out of the pan with a spoon and knife when its still warm.  it goes into bags and then into the freezer. when its cold it should feel like clay, it should not freeze solid.  if it does, you dun did it wrong.
 
i also add salt and bay leaves and shit, but thats all up to you.
 
when its all done you are left with just 4 or 5 sandwich baggies of paste and a shit load of extra freezer space.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Those door guides aren't supposed to be hidden or "buried" behind the trim. They should be exposed for future adjustments or replacement, they can wear out. Key word: CAN. They may not but solid core doors (like yours) are harder on them than the cardboard hollow core doors.

Yeah, just eat a can of spinach, turn your sailors cap around backwards and shove your driver bit through the putty.

I'm glad you brought this thread back!

 
they are so ugly though.
 
id rather re trim that thing than look at those ugly bushings.
 
i guess i really should get a router setup...

 

[Scovie]

Yes, I know you are anal like that. LOL Truth be told, in 6 months from now you won't see them.

Get a router. People as particular as you NEED one!

Bosch or Porter Cable. Fuck DeWalt.

 

[queequeg152]

i would have gotten a router years ago if i JUST wanted a router... problem is i want a router + a decent table... and i cant really decide on what table setup i want.

really like the woodpecker tabels, but i think maby i should get something that is portable... or what ever. idk i havent really needed one much. maby when i redo the cabinets ill revisit all that.

i was looking at the makita or bosch 2-1/4" hp routers. mostly interesting in routing MDF sheet and maby a little bit of hard wood edging for work tables and crap like that so i think a smaller router would be fine.

 

[Scovie]

Yeah, you don't need one that big. I have 5 routers and the biggest is the BOSCH 21/4 hp plunge router. Very cumbersome and bulky.

The 690 is a perfect all around router with TONS of add-ons, and their table is pretty dang good, especially for home owner stuff. If you anything better, you're looking at upgrading to Festool, and that's a hell of alot of money for just odd projects and homeowner stuff. http://www.cpofestool.com/festool-574339-plunge-router/fesn574339,default,pd.html?ref=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=727&zmap=fesn574339&gclid=CMuH4sTrntECFRSPfgodTswNDQ

Porter Cable: $150
Festool: $450

 

[queequeg152]

damn thats a nice looking table. ive never heard of that one, thanks ill looking the porter cable.