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Chicken husbandry ?? EGGS, FERTZ, MEAT - ANY TIPS?????
- Thread starter chilliman
- Start date
.. that is what I was thinking. I know my little brother.. and he is a bit wrong... first thing he asked was "can I cut a head off one and watch it run around ?"Hence I dont think he would even make sure they are feed and watered..
Axel and Missy will tell him when they are hungry other wise they would eat his leg.
I like your little brother even though i haven't met him!! Just yesterday i went around to a mates house only to be told that he had just ended the life of four Bantam roosters. My first words were "Why the f#$k didn't you wait 'till i got here, i would have bought around my machete!!1
Bwahahahahha
Bwahahahahha
And I need the "motivation" to make my cider..stillmanz said:
I was thinking of having them free roam around the yard, but my dogs would chase them all day
And dose a corn feed diet mean that the meat will taste of corn ?? ( that sounds like a stupid question I know) But I thought that the feed will have influence on the meat ?
Lice and worming ?? Is that feed or applyed ?
lice and worming stuff is added to the water. Corn puts on weight in the animal fast same with beef.
If you gonna eat them nothing over16 weeks and flat out corn diet is a good idea.
your dogs will chase them chickens are nervous animals so betterto keep enclosed and let out under supervision. like yard time in jail lol
If you gonna eat them nothing over16 weeks and flat out corn diet is a good idea.
your dogs will chase them chickens are nervous animals so betterto keep enclosed and let out under supervision. like yard time in jail lol
Corn helps to fatten them up. It really helps to add a layer of fat under the skin. I use corn as more of a supplement to their feed and wouldn't use it as an exclusive feed especially with the layers. It can cause them to have too many problems, like being egg bound, ect.
Most of the heavy breeds are too heavy to fly, and if the do, they usually don't fly that high if they do.
Most of the heavy breeds are too heavy to fly, and if the do, they usually don't fly that high if they do.
chilliman said:
No corny taste but too much will make em fat and reduce egg production. A trim happy hen is your best egg layer. Harvesting a bird for meat is another story.
For lice and worming I use DE. Chooks will scratch out a barren area for dusting themselves and I just sprinkle a little DE in those areas and mix it in and let them treat themselves.
For worming just add a little DE to their feed. DE is a really useful multipurpose item to have around.
Matt Berry said:
Exactly, I only use cracked corn as an occasional treat.
If your chicks are young and aren't close to laying yet and winter is coming on a little corn can add some fat to help keep em warm thru the winter.
Chilliman, ere are a few shots to give you an idea of how quickly they grow and maybe a few tips. ;-)
When your chicks arrive dip each chick's beak in the water to show them where it is since they'll
be very thirsty after their trip. Also lay down a few sheets of newspaper for the first few days
and sprinkle it with chick starter feed until they learn to eat from a feeder. Be sure to clean
their waterer and provide fresh water daily.
Chicks at 5 days old on a diet of non-medicated starter/grower crumbles with heat supplied by a
250W infrared heat lamp. Non-medicated food is used because it is better metered by adding it to
their water instead. They are enclosed in a circle of "Brooder Guard" which is nothing more
than 18" wide corrugated cardboard used to contain the chicks and reduce drafts. Most places
state that an 8ft. diameter circle is a large enough area for 100 chicks, but I made a 12ft.
diameter circle for 38 chicks. The larger area makes them less likely to peck each other,
gives them more room to exercise and allows them to easily self regulate warmth by varying
their distance from the heat lamp. In the beginning you want to use a thermometer to get the
area directly under the lamp about 95 degrees. Each week there after reduce the temp by 5 degrees
by increasing the height of the lamp and/or switching to a lower watage bulb until
you eventually reach room temperature.
At 13 days the Cornish X Rocks are twice the size of the others and are moved to a separate
brooder area. The water and feed are raised higher to help keep the pine shavings out of it
and a low perch is also provided.
22 days old and they have enough feathers now and no longer need a separate heat source unless
you have them in an area colder than 70 degrees, but I still provide additional light for 12 hours
each day to augment the window light.
29 days old. The hanging bobble gives them something to peck besides each other.
When your chicks arrive dip each chick's beak in the water to show them where it is since they'll
be very thirsty after their trip. Also lay down a few sheets of newspaper for the first few days
and sprinkle it with chick starter feed until they learn to eat from a feeder. Be sure to clean
their waterer and provide fresh water daily.
Chicks at 5 days old on a diet of non-medicated starter/grower crumbles with heat supplied by a
250W infrared heat lamp. Non-medicated food is used because it is better metered by adding it to
their water instead. They are enclosed in a circle of "Brooder Guard" which is nothing more
than 18" wide corrugated cardboard used to contain the chicks and reduce drafts. Most places
state that an 8ft. diameter circle is a large enough area for 100 chicks, but I made a 12ft.
diameter circle for 38 chicks. The larger area makes them less likely to peck each other,
gives them more room to exercise and allows them to easily self regulate warmth by varying
their distance from the heat lamp. In the beginning you want to use a thermometer to get the
area directly under the lamp about 95 degrees. Each week there after reduce the temp by 5 degrees
by increasing the height of the lamp and/or switching to a lower watage bulb until
you eventually reach room temperature.
At 13 days the Cornish X Rocks are twice the size of the others and are moved to a separate
brooder area. The water and feed are raised higher to help keep the pine shavings out of it
and a low perch is also provided.
22 days old and they have enough feathers now and no longer need a separate heat source unless
you have them in an area colder than 70 degrees, but I still provide additional light for 12 hours
each day to augment the window light.
29 days old. The hanging bobble gives them something to peck besides each other.
36 days old, cage is finished and they get a new outdoor home.
Cornish X Rocks at 36 days old. Quite a bit larger than the others at 36 days.
One gallon paint can supporting the cardboard as size reference.
39 days and the fence is up and they get a taste of freedom....
most of em anyway. ;-)
Cornish X Rocks at 36 days old. Quite a bit larger than the others at 36 days.
One gallon paint can supporting the cardboard as size reference.
39 days and the fence is up and they get a taste of freedom....
most of em anyway. ;-)
Day 43 and the Cornish X Rocks enjoy their last meal. All dressed out to over 5LBs.
Day 43 and few shots of the others...
for size comparison to the X Rocks. The cage doors are left open as they return
there every evening to roost until I get the coop finished.
49 days old and already tearing up the ground.
Day 43 and few shots of the others...
for size comparison to the X Rocks. The cage doors are left open as they return
there every evening to roost until I get the coop finished.
49 days old and already tearing up the ground.
57 days and they're enjoying their freedom and a bread snack but high protein starter/grower
pellets are kept in their feeder.
62 days old and still growing.
81 days and they're close to the height of the Cornish X Rocks when they were harvested at day 43,
although they aren't as broad nor as heavy. After one more month their feed will be switched to
layer pellets since they'll start laying in 7 or 8 more weeks. Also free choice crushed oyster
shells are made available.
And here's a shot of them taken a few weeks ago with their coop and Barred Plymouth Rock rooster
in the background. They had their 2nd birthday about 10 weeks ago and still average 9 eggs per
day. At their peak they averaged 10 per day. One can only eat and pickle so much, so I sell the
excess at $3 per dozen and that covers the feed bill. ;-)
pellets are kept in their feeder.
62 days old and still growing.
81 days and they're close to the height of the Cornish X Rocks when they were harvested at day 43,
although they aren't as broad nor as heavy. After one more month their feed will be switched to
layer pellets since they'll start laying in 7 or 8 more weeks. Also free choice crushed oyster
shells are made available.
And here's a shot of them taken a few weeks ago with their coop and Barred Plymouth Rock rooster
in the background. They had their 2nd birthday about 10 weeks ago and still average 9 eggs per
day. At their peak they averaged 10 per day. One can only eat and pickle so much, so I sell the
excess at $3 per dozen and that covers the feed bill. ;-)