beer ASK WHEEBZ

ASK WHEEBZ -

Thinking about doing a beer with pilsner malt, a kiss of dextrine malt (not sure which one's I have, but I have some from like CaraFoam/CaraPils/CaraMunich) and maybe a little acidualated, and then maybe a little flaked oats to combats the inevitable dryness ...

Light hop extract for bittering, and then hopbursting Citrusy hops, and using a starter made with Wy3724 (so it bails early), and during the first days of primary be building a b. trois starter, and a b. clausenii starter to pitch pitch at like 48 hrs or so ...

Maybe keep it at like 65F for the 3724 for the 48 hrs, but leave it out in the room after adding the brett's ...

Then dry hop w/ more citrusy hops ...

Too far? Wrong way of thinking about it? Could pitch all yeast at once I guess, I think there's only really like 3M in a vial since it's meant as a second fermenter ... and, I guess the trois might not even be a brett, too, but whatever ...

Let me know, thanks ... I'm holding off on the Beersmith time until I figure out how many IBU's I might want to target etc ...

Thanks, man!
PS - sep brett starters to make side-by-side split-batch to compare a 3724 vs 3724+trois vs 3724+claus. ... i have two smacks of 3724, and one wy5151, and one wlp trois, and one wlp claus ... oh, I have a Roeselare smack'r too ...
 
Claussenii is a primary Brett strain. You will get nothing post primary from it just like the brux trios.

I would primary with Clausenii or trois and them hit it with just regular Brett brux after 3 days.
And don't acidify beers and then dry hop with citrus hops. Smells and tastes like feet
 
dog got loose, sorry ;)

i have one vial of brux, i think, too ...

ok, thanks ... i'll have to do some latenight reading on the couch, now! ;)

i'll take some more time tomorrow to jam on some recipes, and to think through it some more going off your input ... and then brew on Sunday ...

thanks, man!

:cheers:
 
Since starting to develop my first recipes I've wondered at the various mash thicknesses. I've always used 1.25/lb as my general guide but I came across this interesting response to a mash thickness question and am interested in your opinion. Could a greater better conversion be achiever with a thinner mash?

Here's the response,
"In general, as said, mash thickness between 1-2 qt./lb. will make little to no difference. Even as high as 3 qt./lb. is fine. Kai Troester (www.braukaiser.com) has performed detailed experiments that show that higher rations lead to greater conversion efficiency. I've pasted in a chart from his work below. He has said that thinner mashes convert more quickly and completely. Here is a quote from his study...""But while thick mashes offer better protection for the enzymes, they also inhibit the enzymatic activity through the reduced availability of free water and the sugars acting as competitive inhibitors [Briggs, 2004]. In addition to that the gelatinization of starch is also slower and happens at higher temperatures in thick mashes and as a result thinner mashes are known to give more fermentable worts at normal mashing temperatures. " (source). Having a higher conversion efficiency means that you don't need to shoot for a really high lauter efficiency, which can lead to better quality beer. If you batch sparge, it works really well to use a ration that gets you approximately half your total boil volume from the mash. That's usually the main factor for me in deciding on ratio. I find that I usually end up around 1.6 qt./lb."

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Like I said, I might be out for now but it may not be forever so I'll still be here
 
To a certain degree yes that is correct in my experience. I always use the same ratio when I brew beers that are under 8.5% abv and another for beers that are over, but that is because of mash tun space usually.

Thinner mashes will make conversion easier and quicker. However having half of your kettle full wort in your mash tun is super excessive

Take however many pounds of grain that you have, divide it by 3.5, and that's how many gallons of strike water you should be using.
 
Ok, following up on that if I have. 19 pound grist divided by 3.5, I need 5.4 gallons of strike water. If my MLT will only hold a 12 pound grist max can I divide the grist in half and do 2 equal mashes to create the total amount of wort for the boil? If I can do I need to do something with the first wort collected to prevent it going bad or souring?
 
If you are mashing back to back, you should be fine. Your wort isn't going to sour that quick. Basically get kettle half way full, remash in, and then get kettle full and boil.
 
If you are mashing back to back, you should be fine. Your wort isn't going to sour that quick. Basically get kettle half way full, remash in, and then get kettle full and boil.


probably a case where mash-out of 1st step helpful to keep the fermentability and mouthfeel design of the recipe intact, right? ...
 
saying that if one is doing multiple mashes in series into a larger boil kettle, that that would be a case where properly mashing out each of the batches before the last probably makes sense ... to not have active enzymes continuing to do their thing on all the liquor sitting in the boil kettle waiting for the rest so that the boil can begin ...
 
What would the downside be to the enzymes continuing to break down the things they were supposed to break down anyways? You should already be converted if you mashed properly anyways.

When you step mash you go from low to high. Once you run in to your kettle all your doing is letting the wort cool a little as you wait. Your sparge water is already hotter than your mash. Those enzymes were already active and denatured at the higher sparge temp.

The reason that you would do a mash out is to decrease viscosity of you mash for a better lauter.
 
i feel like all my biab beers before i started sparging were inevitably fated towards a thinner perceived body from the long mashes and slow ascent to the boil ... that the long chains were getting broken longer than they should have been ...

biab problems, perhaps ...
 
the long chains are not going to get broken unless you hit your mash temp for those specific temperatures
 
think about it, if you hit your 154 to 155 for your mash, you are retaining those higher chain sugars, and as you sparge, with water 20 degrees higher than your mash temperature, why would it get cooler?
 
I start the heat on my kettle 2 minutes into my sparge
 
RM can do the same thing, and just maintain a temp above 160 for the entire time
 
BUT, think about it, his second mash is going to be done the way it should be, and he is also going to be fermenting a wort that is much much higher in gravity than your usual beers
 
what happens to high gravity beers? They never ever attenuate like a lower ABV beer will, so you will still have all that extra body and mouthfeel because of the fact that its just a higher ABV beer
 
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