Don't get me wrong there are benefits, but outside of a lab, they are outweighed by the risks.
Would you mind posting some of your research?
Would you mind posting some of your research?
-
Do you need help identifying a 🌶?
Is your plant suffering from an unknown issue? 🤧
Then ask in Identification and Diagnosis.
Calcium deficient here as well
- Thread starter Proud Marine Dad
- Start date
Pepper-Guru
eXtreme
Cayennemist, I use nature to eat the aphids and if that's not working fast enough, I use natural pyrerhrin. It doesn't have a toxic buildup over time like neem, and works much better.
What risks are you referring to?
Michigan State University did a study years ago and I did a little research before I bought some Spray-N-Grow last year as I was curious if it really was better.
Here is some info I found with a Google search just now. http://www.unitedsta...ar_feeding.html
Just curious about the toxic buildup you speak of regarding neem. Google is failing me. Hard to find anything but praise for it except from people wondering why it doesn't kill on contact. Any links would be appreciated.
As for aphids, I usually just repeatedly shake them off and blast them off with the garden hose. Takes a couple of weeks sometimes but aphids have always been one of the easier problems for me to deal with.
When I was asking for your research, I was thinking along the lines of the MI state study... the only one I know of, as it pertains to peppers was published in the 50s... there may be more, and more recent, but i don't know about them...
Any way, there tend to be two camps - those who swear by foliar feeding, and those that hate it... I find my self more in the middle, because it IS situationaly advisable.
Reasons not to:
Promotes fungus, mold, leads to nute build up in the soil, can burn the leaves, and most importantly, doesn't address the soils deficiencies, which means that any boosts tend to be temporary. Its far better to have good soil to start with, than to foliar feed.
I am of the opinion that someone saw a little research once, and put out a hype product. Most everything I've read on the subject (and its not been a small amount) suggests that at best, its advisable when something has caused the roots to no longer be able to absorb nutrition... Finally, it tends to be more expensive than having the nutrients available to the roots. Good organic ferts can be had at reasonable rates... IF you are noticing a boost in growth/production, then most likely there is a soil issue, and much of the foliar feeding is running off and finding its way to the roots...
An easy way for you to prove foliar feeding is better would be to take three plants, plant 1 - foliar feed with a barrier preventing the run off from reaching the roots, plant two use a well balanced non-foliar fert system, and plant three use the previous fert system in conjunction with foliar feeding... post photos of all three on a regular basis
.
Looking forward to reading your U of M study.
Ken
Any way, there tend to be two camps - those who swear by foliar feeding, and those that hate it... I find my self more in the middle, because it IS situationaly advisable.
Reasons not to:
Promotes fungus, mold, leads to nute build up in the soil, can burn the leaves, and most importantly, doesn't address the soils deficiencies, which means that any boosts tend to be temporary. Its far better to have good soil to start with, than to foliar feed.
I am of the opinion that someone saw a little research once, and put out a hype product. Most everything I've read on the subject (and its not been a small amount) suggests that at best, its advisable when something has caused the roots to no longer be able to absorb nutrition... Finally, it tends to be more expensive than having the nutrients available to the roots. Good organic ferts can be had at reasonable rates... IF you are noticing a boost in growth/production, then most likely there is a soil issue, and much of the foliar feeding is running off and finding its way to the roots...
An easy way for you to prove foliar feeding is better would be to take three plants, plant 1 - foliar feed with a barrier preventing the run off from reaching the roots, plant two use a well balanced non-foliar fert system, and plant three use the previous fert system in conjunction with foliar feeding... post photos of all three on a regular basis
.Looking forward to reading your U of M study.
Ken
Pepper-Guru
eXtreme
FOliar feeding is great for giving pants that extra boost. If you're brewing the right aact teas or using organic sprays, you won't promote fungus. In fact you will essentially vaccinate your plants hy doing so.
If your soil is right, they won't need that little extra boost
An easy way for you to prove foliar feeding is better would be to take three plants, plant 1 - foliar feed with a barrier preventing the run off from reaching the roots, plant two use a well balanced non-foliar fert system, and plant three use the previous fert system in conjunction with foliar feeding... post photos of all three on a regular basis
Surely there has to be someone on here who could do this test with clones. Some of you have more peppers than NMSU!
Here's some useful info on foliar feeding
" A supplement, not a substitute – Remember that foliar is very useful, but cannot replace healthy soil and roots. A plant’s roots purpose is to supply large amounts of nutrients which you cannot get through foliar feeding. Foliar feeding can do the following:
Provide nutrients after transplanting. Until new roots are formed, the plant is completely dependent upon stored nutrients to maintain itself, but foliar feeding can minimize the shock and keep the plant growing.
Cold soil in early spring growth can be limit perennials, even when the air is warm. Soil microorganisms are not capable of converting nutrients into forms available for roots to absorb. Foliar feeding can quickly provide the needed nutrients to the plants, thus allowing the plant to begin growth before roots can furnish needed nutrients from the soil.
Provide peak need feeding when the plant can demand nutrients faster than the roots can furnish them. Foliar feeding can influence flowering, fruit set, fruit size, amount of vegetative growth, among other things.
Allows flexibility in supplying nutrients. Small imbalances in the soil can lock up various nutrients, foliar feeding allows the ability to correct these problems. Iron is in most soils but is very hard to get into a form plants can use.
Can provide nutrients during times of plant stress. It can protect plants from the damage of weather extremes and drought.
Help provide disease and insect protection.
Some plants, such as azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, and blueberries, thrive in low pH conditions so they can not extract iron unless the soil is quite acidic (5.0 or less) and may need a foliar spray boost even in slightly acidic soil."
http://www.turfprousa.com/organic_growing_foliar_feeding_3008a.html
" A supplement, not a substitute – Remember that foliar is very useful, but cannot replace healthy soil and roots. A plant’s roots purpose is to supply large amounts of nutrients which you cannot get through foliar feeding. Foliar feeding can do the following:
Provide nutrients after transplanting. Until new roots are formed, the plant is completely dependent upon stored nutrients to maintain itself, but foliar feeding can minimize the shock and keep the plant growing.
Cold soil in early spring growth can be limit perennials, even when the air is warm. Soil microorganisms are not capable of converting nutrients into forms available for roots to absorb. Foliar feeding can quickly provide the needed nutrients to the plants, thus allowing the plant to begin growth before roots can furnish needed nutrients from the soil.
Provide peak need feeding when the plant can demand nutrients faster than the roots can furnish them. Foliar feeding can influence flowering, fruit set, fruit size, amount of vegetative growth, among other things.
Allows flexibility in supplying nutrients. Small imbalances in the soil can lock up various nutrients, foliar feeding allows the ability to correct these problems. Iron is in most soils but is very hard to get into a form plants can use.
Can provide nutrients during times of plant stress. It can protect plants from the damage of weather extremes and drought.
Help provide disease and insect protection.
Some plants, such as azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, and blueberries, thrive in low pH conditions so they can not extract iron unless the soil is quite acidic (5.0 or less) and may need a foliar spray boost even in slightly acidic soil."
http://www.turfprousa.com/organic_growing_foliar_feeding_3008a.html
Pepper-Guru
eXtreme
There are too many reasons foliar feeding is the shit. But don't take our word for it, find out the truth yourselves. Good post potawie. Guess we need to make some pinned topics on supplements...
i compost my own manure, and put it in my garden. My stuff grows like crazy...
Also, I have worms in my soil already
Better still, I feed the animals whose manure I compost haha.
So I know exactly whats in there.
Also, I have worms in my soil already
Better still, I feed the animals whose manure I compost haha.
So I know exactly whats in there.
Pepper-Guru
eXtreme
Well.......... im going to make a LONG answer very short. When you brew aact teas, worm teas specifically, the flora of micro organisms in the tea produce natural chemicals that EAT the exoskeletons of insects. When sprayed on the plants, the stomata eat what they need, and the remainder stays behind to ward of bugs, and fungi, and bacteria, and viruses, and.....etc etc etc
Ahhh the wonders of nature
I started off using seaweed foliar spray on my seedlings a few weeks after germination but didn't notice any additional growth. The leaves were also getting purple patches on them and turning yellowish, so I stopped. Once planted outside in properly prepared soil and warmed by a black plastic thermal mulch (zone 5) they've grown very quickly. No foliar feeding necessary. I did spade in bonemeal and 3 year old horse manure/bedding before planting as I have very sandy soil with a definite Phosphate deficiency and this was newly broken ground. So far, the only pests that have been a problem have been cutworms and asiatic garden beetles. Took care of the cutworms with bamboo skewers and the beetles by squishing every adult beetle and grub I saw while digging. No chemicals.
I have learned loads since this post was created. Guru is right about the neem. Neem makes a hydrophobic film that blocks stuff out and kills microbes and bugs, but it kills the good stuff like good aerobic microbes that create a Biofilm to protect our babies. Plants have evolved to depend on symbiotic relationships for health. Be it, immunity or nutrient intake, plants need these beneficial microbes to flourish in nature. You can grow plants without these environmental variables, but be prepared to spend a pretty penny trying to replicate the effects of said beneficials.
As for the Cal and mag, there is more than enough in soil for your plants, they just need to be able to get it, unless you have soil less mix or something. IMHO only soil-less and hydro need Cal-Mag, the rest of us with potting soil or garden soil should focus on healthier soil with a complete food web that breaks stuff down and delivers the trace minerals to the plants. "Feed the soil, not the plants."
As for the Cal and mag, there is more than enough in soil for your plants, they just need to be able to get it, unless you have soil less mix or something. IMHO only soil-less and hydro need Cal-Mag, the rest of us with potting soil or garden soil should focus on healthier soil with a complete food web that breaks stuff down and delivers the trace minerals to the plants. "Feed the soil, not the plants."