Carolina Reaper Plant Issue..

[Powelly]

 
 
Yes !!!
 
What could be done to prevent the P excess in the future?
 
I suspect the excess P coming from the regular water (phosphoric pH down when there is no nutes) after many watering...
 
Alternate between what? Sulfuric,Nitric, acetic acid?
 
The pH down for pools are just salt (sodium bisulfate) I don't think that's gonna help in the soil.

 
Hey man,
I joined just to comment here
 
Simply test your normal plain water using the same test you used before- then you'll know if excess P is coming from the water.
As for pH down, I don't think you need it as the salts from fertiliser will bring it down a bit.
 
In your situation I'd trim those bad leaves off and water it with some seaweed solution and then let it go dry. Next watering I'd water in some worm castings.
 
I don't think you need to flush it with water but if you have it's not the end of the world. Someone mentioned before about 3:1:2 fertiliser and really this is the best you can get and stick with as it's what plants uptake naturally. After you pick the first fruit it can be beneficial to increase the nitrogen and potassium for one fertilisation but it's not really needed. That's as "advanced" I'd get with nutrients
 
I see a lot of people here trying to pick the fruit that has already been picked so to speak- fertilisation is the easy thing to do and most people already do it. But it's not what grows great plants. You'd have a better use of your time:
 

• Giving the plant more light, or better quality light. I give my plants afternoon sun that gives them light from 1400-2100 hours in summer. Maybe morning sun would do better for it? Maybe I could move it so the light hits it at 1300? Light is most important and the amount / type you give it depends on location and season so you need to move it around each week to test.
• Learning to trim your plant correctly, not too much but not too little. Trimming gives big yields in small spaces. Leaving it mostly untrimmed is best for a lot of space and gives the biggest yield 
• Creating and building a good soil

 

[The_NorthEast_ChileMan]

it's not calcium deficiency symptoms.

Why not? Click on pepper leaf calcium deficiency/GOOGLE Image Search and look through all the pictures in the top two rows.... Are they all wrong? Or do you have an alternate fix? I'm always willing to learn!
 
 

 

[The_NorthEast_ChileMan]

 
 
Hey man,
I joined just to comment here
 
Simply test your normal plain water using the same test you used before- then you'll know if excess P is coming from the water.
As for pH down, I don't think you need it as the salts from fertiliser will bring it down a bit.
 
In your situation I'd trim those bad leaves off and water it with some seaweed solution and then let it go dry. Next watering I'd water in some worm castings.
 
I don't think you need to flush it with water but if you have it's not the end of the world. Someone mentioned before about 3:1:2 fertiliser and really this is the best you can get and stick with as it's what plants uptake naturally. After you pick the first fruit it can be beneficial to increase the nitrogen and potassium for one fertilisation but it's not really needed. That's as "advanced" I'd get with nutrients
 
I see a lot of people here trying to pick the fruit that has already been picked so to speak- fertilisation is the easy thing to do and most people already do it. But it's not what grows great plants. You'd have a better use of your time:
 

• Giving the plant more light, or better quality light. I give my plants afternoon sun that gives them light from 1400-2100 hours in summer. Maybe morning sun would do better for it? Maybe I could move it so the light hits it at 1300? Light is most important and the amount / type you give it depends on location and season so you need to move it around each week to test.
• Learning to trim your plant correctly, not too much but not too little. Trimming gives big yields in small spaces. Leaving it mostly untrimmed is best for a lot of space and gives the biggest yield 
• Creating and building a good soil

 

 
 
I hope you continue with great posts like this!

NECM

 

[solid7]

 
I don't think you need to flush it with water but if you have it's not the end of the world. 

 
Hey, welcome, man.

The quote above is the only part of your post that I'd disagree with.  Flush is needed when something is so far out of whack as his P level. It's far enough off the chart, that quantifying it isn't even necessary.  The problem is, it's not going to get rid of itself, and it isn't going to get used, as long as some P is still being added. (it will only further accumulate)  You can't just dose around it either, because as you say, plants have a certain rate of uptake, and some of the components are mobile, and some are not.  P is not mobile. Nitrogen can disappear as fast as it gets built up.  Of course, if you wanted to try to dose around it, that may be possible - if you're open to doing frequent soil testing.  I think that's a pain in the ass.  Great learning experience, but that's it.
.
There are a few symptoms of P lockout that mimic other things.  Calcium lockout can look incredibly similar in appearance to P lockout.
.
I'm a pretty lazy grower, and typically try to get away with the absolute minimum. But in this case, I'd absolutely flush this plant - if it were my own.  You seem fairly knowledgeable, so I'm not trying to cross swords, but I think it's the fastest way to get on track, and stay there.

 

[ELCouz]

 
 
 
 
Simply test your normal plain water using the same test you used before- then you'll know if excess P is coming from the water.
As for pH down, I don't think you need it as the salts from fertiliser will bring it down a bit.
 
 

 
 
I have uploaded a google translated report from the city water annual report. ------>>http://msn.elcouz.net/waterreporttranslated.pdf
 
I was saying the P was coming from the phosphoric acid pH down when I water with plain water because when I use nutes I don't need to add p. acid.
 
Thanks all of you guys, very appreciated!
 
I will check where I can find the CNS17 grow.
 
I will use the CNS17 grow for pots and use the GH flora for the garden until done (not to waste nutes)

 

[solid7]

I will check where I can find the CNS17 grow.
 
I will use the CNS17 grow for pots and use the GH flora for the garden until done (not to waste nutes)

 
Amazon.  Or local hydro shop.

I have never liked GH standard line of nutrients.  Like all things, some people use them to great success.  But if you read deep enough, you'll find that MANY users of GH experience problems - especially when using non-RO water.  In fact, non-RO is often the limiting factor with that line.

 

[Powelly]

Thanks for the welcome, I appreciate it 
It doesn't look like P overdose to me, really you have to try very hard to give a plant too much P
 
This link here is great and gives pictures of various nutrient deficiencies
http://www.haifa-group.com/knowledge_center/crop_guides/pepper/nutritional_requirements/nutritional_disorders_in_peppers/
 
But by all means, trim it, re-pot it and just start again. I don't think we ever ruled out a calcium deficiency either but I've never even seen one in real life that affected leaves only when fruiting.
 
If you're not using a hydroponic setup then personally I'd just fertilise with vermicompost or mushroom compost. It has everything the plant needs. Hydroponic fertilisers are good for if you have a requirement for 100% solubility (a hydroponic setup). You don't need this when you're growing in pots
 
Whenever I see a plant nutrition thread online the poster is unequivocally using hydroponic fertilisers. Not saying that they are bad it's just harder to get right as no-one seems to do a "complete" solution because that's harder to market

 

[solid7]

It doesn't look like P overdose to me, really you have to try very hard to give a plant too much P
 
You don't need this when you're growing in pots
 
Whenever I see a plant nutrition thread online the poster is unequivocally using hydroponic fertilisers. Not saying that they are bad it's just harder to get right as no-one seems to do a "complete" solution because that's harder to market

 
If you say that P in-ground is hard to overdose, I'd agree.  However, in containers, I don't think it's as hard as we like to believe, given that so many fertilizers contain such a high concentration of P, and armed with the ongoing belief (misinformation) that we need so much.  Especially when you see people trying to fertilize peppers like they see weed growers doing, with silly "veg" and "bloom" cycles - which even they don't really need.
.
I'm not suggesting that it's just that simple, because there may be other elements which contribute.  But I will offer up that when I started addressing my "high P theory", I was able to correct many issues with my plants.  Things that I previously tried to attribute to other factors, went away, when I adjusted the NPK ratio to lower the Phosphorus. (not my theory - just one that I latched onto)
.
You are right about the "complete" solution, and that's why I suggested the CNS17 grow.  That is as complete as it gets, and I understand the Dyna-Grow Foliage Pro is the same.

 

[solid7]

If you're not using a hydroponic setup then personally I'd just fertilise with vermicompost or mushroom compost. 

 
You're not actually suggesting that vermicompost or mushroom compost is sufficient feeding for an entire grow, are you?  Because I'd have to disagree mightily with that.

 

[Powelly]

 
You're not actually suggesting that vermicompost or mushroom compost is sufficient feeding for an entire grow, are you?  Because I'd have to disagree mightily with that.

 
I think it is, they both supply adequate nutrients. I've never seen any nutrient deficiency myself by doing this
Maybe the plant doesn't grow as much as it can or fruit as much as it can but the plants are always healthy. It's a great start by any means
 
You obviously think differently though and we can all learn from different experiences- what are your thoughts on it?
 

 
If you say that P in-ground is hard to overdose, I'd agree.  However, in containers, I don't think it's as hard as we like to believe, given that so many fertilizers contain such a high concentration of P, and armed with the ongoing belief (misinformation) that we need so much.  Especially when you see people trying to fertilize peppers like they see weed growers doing, with silly "veg" and "bloom" cycles - which even they don't really need.
.
I'm not suggesting that it's just that simple, because there may be other elements which contribute.  But I will offer up that when I started addressing my "high P theory", I was able to correct many issues with my plants.  Things that I previously tried to attribute to other factors, went away, when I adjusted the NPK ratio to lower the Phosphorus. (not my theory - just one that I latched onto)
.
You are right about the "complete" solution, and that's why I suggested the CNS17 grow.  That is as complete as it gets, and I understand the Dyna-Grow Foliage Pro is the same.

 
I agree with this completely, I don't really understand why P is high in a lot of fertilisers. Even in cannabis the plant does not require that much. I don't think you need veg and bloom fertilisers even in cannabis. I've never seen any study that showed benefit from a larger amount of P!
 
Larger amounts of P can also increase other nutrients (EG if you're using potassium phosphate). 
Going from the tests I can see above, I don't think it's *that* high but I'd just avoid giving the plant phosphorus from now on. If you want to be safe, re-pot it

 

[lek]

 
I think it is, they both supply adequate nutrients. I've never seen any nutrient deficiency myself by doing this
Maybe the plant doesn't grow as much as it can or fruit as much as it can but the plants are always healthy. It's a great start by any means

 
I can confirm that it's more than enough. I grew this pepper using vermicompost. No pesticide, No herbicide, No fungicide.  The plant is healthy.
 

 

 

[JUR-Z-Devil]

it's not calcium deficiency symptoms.  LOL
 
 
 

 

i would disagree... I have cured many a plant that looked just like that by simply adding calcium to the watering... leaves that were not too bad would uncurl to almost normal and new growth would be fine... not saying it is the problem but you cant say its not... most often it happened when using epsom salt in potted plants and not adding calcium too cause they work together.... i found basic calcium magnesium zinc tablets for people worked to fix the issue... one in a gallon of water and within a week things were getting back to normal... sprayed on the foliage and the soil.. ive seen many plants look like this from over usage of epsom salt without adding calcium too

 

[lek]

 
i would disagree... I have cured many a plant that looked just like that by simply adding calcium to the watering... 

 
Don't you think he is too lucky to have Ca deficiency on baby reapers! Just like winning a lottery 

 

[JUR-Z-Devil]

 
Don't you think he is too lucky to have Ca deficiency on baby reapers! Just like winning a lottery 

 

Thats not exactly a baby and as i said doesnt mean it is, but you cant say its not either... he was adding calcium and magnesum them more magnesium without waiting to see how things worked... he can easily have too much magnesium and not enough calcium... people are making suggestions here, you are making definites as if you tested the soil and leaves over the internet.. thats not helpful... no one here can claim definites as we didnt grow em thats why we suggest and he has to narrow it down himself...

 

[lek]

 
Thats not exactly a baby and as i said doesnt mean it is, but you cant say its not either... he was adding calcium and magnesum them more magnesium without waiting to see how things worked... he can easily have too much magnesium and not enough calcium... people are making suggestions here, you are making definites as if you tested the soil and leaves over the internet.. thats not helpful... no one here can claim definites as we didnt grow em thats why we suggest and he has to narrow it down himself...

 
That's definitely a baby. A reaper can grow really large and live long for many years!
 
Too much Ca is disastrous. That reaper will suffer deficiencies of other nutrients, such as phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, boron, copper, iron, or zinc. It's best to balances between soil nutrients which is not easy.
 
Tap water already have Ca, Mg. Why add more? 
 
Stop feeding more chemical nutrient. And raise air humidity level. Clean the reaper using misting nozzle with tap water like this
 

 

 
 
 

 

[JUR-Z-Devil]

 
That's definitely a baby. A reaper can grow really large and live long for many years!
 
Too much Ca is disastrous. That reaper will suffer deficiencies of other nutrients, such as phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, boron, copper, iron, or zinc. It's best to balances between soil nutrients which is not easy.
 
Tap water already have Ca, Mg. Why add more? 
 
Stop feeding more chemical nutrient. And raise air humidity level. Clean the reaper using misting nozzle with tap water like this
 

 

 
 
 

 
see thats what im talking about... now all the way from  bangkok you even know definites on whats in his water supply... jesus christ its no wonder i see so many quoted posts of you arguing with solid7... you are 2 of a kind... shit if i didnt know better id say you were the same person using 2 different screen names to argue with yourself to find out which personality is right... the second any one says something that doesnt agree with your statements its no longer about helping its about being right... for fucks sake... im just adding you to the block list with him cause there is no point as there is no actual conversation, just, im right!!! good day to you lek... jesus...

 

 

[lek]

 
see thats what im talking about... now all the way from  bangkok you even know definites on whats in his water supply... jesus christ its no wonder i see so many quoted posts of you arguing with solid7... you are 2 of a kind... shit if i didnt know better id say you were the same person using 2 different screen names to argue with yourself to find out which personality is right... the second any one says something that doesnt agree with your statements its no longer about helping its about being right... for f**ks sake... im just adding you to the block list with him cause there is no point as there is no actual conversation, just, im right!!! good day to you lek... jesus...

 

 
LOL... oh come on my friend JUR-Z-Devil, I just express my opinion. What's wrong with it. You can agree or disagree. It's up to you.   We are here to help him cure that reaper, right? 

 

[lek]

Why not? Click on pepper leaf calcium deficiency/GOOGLE Image Search and look through all the pictures in the top two rows.... Are they all wrong? Or do you have an alternate fix? I'm always willing to learn!

 
I did take a look at the first 5 pictures and I can tell that it's NOT Ca deficiency. 
 
Just some kind of thrips. 
 
I have several species of ladybug. Very beautiful. 
She's very deligent. She will traverse each and every branch.  then eat, eat and eat....
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
This one is my favorite.
 

 

[lek]

 
Hey, Professor Amino...  Plants in pots need calcium, whether they are presently deficient, or not.  Even more so, after a flush.  So a ready source of calcium has been suggested.
.
As I'm sure you know, a plant won't properly take up nitrogen, where calcium is deficient, or locked up.  I'm sure that you were about to say that, right after a hit and run comment, or two.

 
that's why someone said you & me are 2 of a kind ... $hit ... LOL ... hit and run

 

[solid7]

 
I think it is, they both supply adequate nutrients. I've never seen any nutrient deficiency myself by doing this
Maybe the plant doesn't grow as much as it can or fruit as much as it can but the plants are always healthy. It's a great start by any means
 
You obviously think differently though and we can all learn from different experiences- what are your thoughts on it?

 
It hasn't worked in my experiments.  I am open to the possibility that it could work, but I'd want to see proof.  Other than from lek, whose plants - when compared side by side with those of other growers - look like the equivalent of an omnivorous athlete, standing next to a dreadlocked vegan. (his/her plants are the vegans) 
.
If you can actually make this work, not only would I love to learn about it, but I'd even use the method, because I already have a large worm bed in operation.  At present, it's only used for supplementation.