Thanks for the info, I feel that it is important to have a place like this thread where people can share information and help evolve an idea.
My point was that there are ways to speed up the prosess. And I will now be putting those tips in to the guide. like "The smaller the pieces the more surface area there is for bacteria to start breaking down the food, making it easier for the worms to consume."
I will also add "Mature castings should be fairly dry and very fine like sand as it's completely broken down to it's final state." to the guide. Thanks for your imput.
I am not an expert at this "yet" but with the collective imput of you guys, we can quickly understand the all the ins and outs of Vermicomposting.
Now I understand the stinky garage thing LGHT! I thought it was all due to fishy equipment!
Keep going Cay... Good info!
2 questions
Can you buy this worm castings already bagged up to tickle your fancy?
Also can you use it as a top coating on to soil to break down into it or just make tea???
Ty! Im really interested in this. What nutrients are contained in castings? At what ratios
http://mypeoplepc.com/members/arbra/trinity/id14.htmlred wiggler worm castings have a N-P-K ratio of about 3.2-1.1-1.5. Nutrients are readily available, yet the castings are incapable of burning plants.
Organic Growing from a Microbial Perspective
This is a very interesting topic for sure!!
For a good explanation on how this stuff works check out this link http://microbeorganics.com/ and go down to the part where he discusses
It makes for some good reading and explains some of this in a way that's easier to understand.
The Pepper Guru is right when he says that it's all about the " Soil Foodweb" . If you google that you will find lots of reading material.
Cayennemist you are doing a great job here. Keep up the hard work.
Soil Mix is a very common way of using worm castings. If you have ever used a store bought Organic soil, then there is a good chance that it had worm castings in it already. You can go up to 20% worm castings in your soil and see great results. Exceeding 20% will however make for a over rich soil that maynot drain.
What I wanted to share with everyone, which might vary from state to state, country to country is how to find your own red wigglers...
When I first made the worm bin, I went to michlendons and bought 2 containers of 200 live worms. Total: 24 dollars. Total worms: 400.
The worms were medium sized, nothin huge.. and definitely expensive IMO. I've seen many many websites, local and not selling them for about the same price. I have a few hundred plants goin and want some serious worm production and there was no way I was gonna buy 30lbs of red wigglers lol.. So I had an idea. They are the best compost worms out there so.. why not check the compost pile?
I started a compost pile about a month ago before I decided to go with the worm bin. Mainly grass from mowing the lawn, left over fruits and veggies, etc.. Been turning it a good 3-5 times a week. I thought, what better place to check for redwigglers..
Turns out, the surrounding areas of the compost pile (not the heated center) were full of red wigglers!
An easy dead giveaway is the yellow tip on the tail (you can see it perfectly on the picture Caymist posted on page 1)
So anyway, start a compost bin somewhere in your yard, on the ground obviously, and watch the wigglers show! I've been collected for 3 days, thats it, and I've easily collected 800+ red wigglers. Big ones at that. Which boils down to 50+dollars of store bought worms.. I've spent maybe 15 minutes total searching for these worms. Time well spent and money saved.
Hope this helps a few.
Great topic CayMist.
Brandon
FREAKING YES! few things...
1. THANKS for your tip!
2. I will be doing this very soon
3. Have you seen any results using Worm Tea?
4. How do you use your worm Tea? Foliar or on the soil or both?
5. Nice setup you got there!
No problem! I've been all about finding cheap ways to do things lately(savin for a few 1000watt MH HPS bulbs lol..) I have seen great results from using the worm tea. I had a pretty bad bacspot infection that eventually got to the point where I had to remove every leaf on every plant. For some unknown reason once the new growth started coming back about half of the plants were coming back yellow as can be.. I was using botanicare products with no results, I tried damn near everything. I still to this day don't know what the reason was. My only guess is some crazy trace mineral that was missing or an odd deficiency that wasn't NPK Mag, or Cal. Once I started lookin at more organic ways to do things I decided to try out the worm/compost tea. After the first application, 3 days later, 99% of the yellow plants were now back to emerald green and growing twice as fast as they were. So whatever my plants were missing, they certainly got it from the tea. From that day forward, I've been a believer.
As for how I use it, I've been foliar and soil feeding them lately, I'll be starting another 20 or so species here in a few weeks and I'm really interested to see how fast the seedlings grow with the tea compard to the previous botanicare, superthrive fertilizers I used back in January. I'll keep you posted!
Thanks for the reply man
Brandon
Yep! I filled a 7gal at the beach. now it is sitting in my green house. I rinsed it well and stored it in a bucket. I throw it in a blender and then add it to my worm tea.I was thinking about that same thing! Anybody near the coast I feel could do it. My dad lives on the sound and the beach is always covered in seaweed. Fresh seaweed incorperated into the tea? Or better yet, harvest a ton of it off the beach and let it sundry? Not a bad idea and worth a shot if you ask me. Don't know if that's where you were goin with it so hopefully were on the same page lol.
Brandon
Where can i buy a said bag of worm castings?
Where can i buy a said bag of worm castings?
Whats the difference from dressing the castings vs teaing the castings?
I assume the tea just gets absord quicker?
Using your castingsThis process is done by aerating the worm castings, water and unsulphured molasses for approximately 48 hours in order to explode the aerobic microbe population.