beer =[ GM's 1st 16x Batches, and/or 10 mo. Brewing ]=
- Thread starter grantmichaels
- Start date
https://youtu.be/20uWXTsb3w0
Quantities (for Wheebz to check out):
90% Pilsner (2 Row) UK (1.0 SRM) 6 lbs 12.7 oz
8% Flaked oats (1.0 SRM) 9.7 oz
2% Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) 2.4 oz
Whirfloc
.65 tsp Yeast Nutrient
4.9% Fuggle .5 oz
5.5% Pacific Hallertau .25 oz
5.5% Pacific Hallertau .50 oz
I used a 72% efficiency, setup for Light Body adjusted to 150F ...
90 min mash
90 min boil
Est OG 1.060
Bitterness 19.7 IBU's
Color 2.7 SRM
Est ABV 6.8%
Bitterness Ratio .329 IBU/SG
Est Pre-Boil Gravity 1.047
Est Final Gravity 1.008
Measured OG? 1.046
Wanted to also verify the 78F for 3 days ... which, really ... is probably my room temp across the room from the A/C vent ...
Look good?
Quantities (for Wheebz to check out):
90% Pilsner (2 Row) UK (1.0 SRM) 6 lbs 12.7 oz
8% Flaked oats (1.0 SRM) 9.7 oz
2% Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) 2.4 oz
Whirfloc
.65 tsp Yeast Nutrient
4.9% Fuggle .5 oz
5.5% Pacific Hallertau .25 oz
5.5% Pacific Hallertau .50 oz
I used a 72% efficiency, setup for Light Body adjusted to 150F ...
90 min mash
90 min boil
Est OG 1.060
Bitterness 19.7 IBU's
Color 2.7 SRM
Est ABV 6.8%
Bitterness Ratio .329 IBU/SG
Est Pre-Boil Gravity 1.047
Est Final Gravity 1.008
Measured OG? 1.046
Wanted to also verify the 78F for 3 days ... which, really ... is probably my room temp across the room from the A/C vent ...
Look good?
Wheebz will give you the pro tips, but from my perspective your OG is 0.014 off, which is big.
I personally would drop the pilsner malt % slightly and add in some pale malt to boost the enzymes available for conversion, although most pilsner malts are pretty well modified these days, so wouldn't add too much. Other things that could have contributed is so you added too much sparge and or your boil wasn't rolling hard, or your mash temps were higher than planned. Did you squeeze the bag hard when draining, and stir the mash a couple of times in the mash period too? Also, did you ask your grain supplier to crack for BIAB? it needs a slightly finer crack than standard AG.
You could add some light malt extract now to boost the alcohol closer to intended OG or be happy with a 5% beer assuming it hit final projected gravity.
If you had enough ingredients to brew it again, it would be worth making the same beer twice and tweaking the process and recipe to see if you can increase the efficiency, or calculate at a guess more a 55% efficiency not 72% as your rigs efficiency and increase the ingredients accordingly. I can get up to 80% efficiency on my BIAB rig, so I think it is recipe and process that needs to dial in.
I personally would drop the pilsner malt % slightly and add in some pale malt to boost the enzymes available for conversion, although most pilsner malts are pretty well modified these days, so wouldn't add too much. Other things that could have contributed is so you added too much sparge and or your boil wasn't rolling hard, or your mash temps were higher than planned. Did you squeeze the bag hard when draining, and stir the mash a couple of times in the mash period too? Also, did you ask your grain supplier to crack for BIAB? it needs a slightly finer crack than standard AG.
You could add some light malt extract now to boost the alcohol closer to intended OG or be happy with a 5% beer assuming it hit final projected gravity.
If you had enough ingredients to brew it again, it would be worth making the same beer twice and tweaking the process and recipe to see if you can increase the efficiency, or calculate at a guess more a 55% efficiency not 72% as your rigs efficiency and increase the ingredients accordingly. I can get up to 80% efficiency on my BIAB rig, so I think it is recipe and process that needs to dial in.
Wheebz will give you the pro tips, but from my perspective your OG is 0.014 off, which is big.
I personally would drop the pilsner malt % slightly and add in some pale malt to boost the enzymes available for conversion, although most pilsner malts are pretty well modified these days, so wouldn't add too much. Other things that could have contributed is so you added too much sparge and or your boil wasn't rolling hard, or your mash temps were higher than planned. Did you squeeze the bag hard when draining, and stir the mash a couple of times in the mash period too? Also, did you ask your grain supplier to crack for BIAB? it needs a slightly finer crack than standard AG.
You could add some light malt extract now to boost the alcohol closer to intended OG or be happy with a 5% beer assuming it hit final projected gravity.
If you had enough ingredients to brew it again, it would be worth making the same beer twice and tweaking the process and recipe to see if you can increase the efficiency, or calculate at a guess more a 55% efficiency not 72% as your rigs efficiency and increase the ingredients accordingly. I can get up to 80% efficiency on my BIAB rig, so I think it is recipe and process that needs to dial in.
?
I haven't brewed it yet ...
That's the info from Beersmith because he doesn't use it
I personally would drop the pilsner malt % slightly and add in some pale malt to boost the enzymes available for conversion, although most pilsner malts are pretty well modified these days, so wouldn't add too much. Other things that could have contributed is so you added too much sparge and or your boil wasn't rolling hard, or your mash temps were higher than planned. Did you squeeze the bag hard when draining, and stir the mash a couple of times in the mash period too? Also, did you ask your grain supplier to crack for BIAB? it needs a slightly finer crack than standard AG.
You could add some light malt extract now to boost the alcohol closer to intended OG or be happy with a 5% beer assuming it hit final projected gravity.
If you had enough ingredients to brew it again, it would be worth making the same beer twice and tweaking the process and recipe to see if you can increase the efficiency, or calculate at a guess more a 55% efficiency not 72% as your rigs efficiency and increase the ingredients accordingly. I can get up to 80% efficiency on my BIAB rig, so I think it is recipe and process that needs to dial in.
?
I haven't brewed it yet ...
That's the info from Beersmith because he doesn't use it
? What is your measured OG then? Whoops!
I didn't get that either ... it's a Beersmith field in the UI ...
:shrug:
I didn't get that either ... it's a Beersmith field in the UI ...
:shrug:
Did you get the Beersmith file in the forwarded email?
Yeah ... I'll brew that puppy in like 8-9 hrs ... watched Kingsmen w/ D and waiting for the coffee to wear off for a bit of sleep, then it's ON ...
Dual wort chillers today, and a starter ... hoping for a smooth, enjoyable brew!
Doing some recipe-commonality research ...
The sources:
Grant. Use your refractometer if you have to pre boil
Best part is I have actual recipes from some of the biggest breweries in the country. You wanna make Pliny the elder I got that. You wanna make any beer from Southern tier I got that. You wanna make something from dogfish, well I have the Festina recipe and that's it but yeah I will hook it up
I would love to make something like Goose Island's Bourbon County Stout ... anytime! I'm looking at clone recipes from Beersmith cloud, but I'd sooner do a Wheebz ditty!
Dual wort chillers today, and a starter ... hoping for a smooth, enjoyable brew!
Doing some recipe-commonality research ...
The sources:
Grant. Use your refractometer if you have to pre boil
Best part is I have actual recipes from some of the biggest breweries in the country. You wanna make Pliny the elder I got that. You wanna make any beer from Southern tier I got that. You wanna make something from dogfish, well I have the Festina recipe and that's it but yeah I will hook it up
I would love to make something like Goose Island's Bourbon County Stout ... anytime! I'm looking at clone recipes from Beersmith cloud, but I'd sooner do a Wheebz ditty!
Adjusting the grain bill now, down to 5.6% ... 1.049 target ... same hop amount and schedule ...
Final recipe ...
Hedged a bit, rounded a bit, added a little bit here and there to have round numbers, and ultimately not sure 72% will happen in truth, so it'll be interesting ...
There's about 30 mins left in the mash, but I'm busily making hose assemblies w/ quick-disconnects and clamps so I can try the plate chiller today ...
This one's going into a five gallon glass carboy with an airlock, and chillin' in my brewery room out of cold storage ...
I think 78-79F is probably room + ferm temp, yes?
Pre-grist water was a pH of about 6 today, so I just used a 1/2 tbsp of pH5.2 and no citric acid ...
Crazy as hell to have water move between 5.5 and 9.5 from day to day, hour to hour ...
Now, though ... how do perform this iodine test? ... need some quick Google time before I get ready to transition to the boil ...
Hedged a bit, rounded a bit, added a little bit here and there to have round numbers, and ultimately not sure 72% will happen in truth, so it'll be interesting ...
There's about 30 mins left in the mash, but I'm busily making hose assemblies w/ quick-disconnects and clamps so I can try the plate chiller today ...
This one's going into a five gallon glass carboy with an airlock, and chillin' in my brewery room out of cold storage ...
I think 78-79F is probably room + ferm temp, yes?
Pre-grist water was a pH of about 6 today, so I just used a 1/2 tbsp of pH5.2 and no citric acid ...
Crazy as hell to have water move between 5.5 and 9.5 from day to day, hour to hour ...
Now, though ... how do perform this iodine test? ... need some quick Google time before I get ready to transition to the boil ...
You don't need an iodine test. If you Re mashing for over an hour you are more than fine. Saccarification actually happens in about 40 minutes
But if you want, take like a white plate or ramekin or dish, add mash liquid to it, add a drop or two of iodine, if it turns black/purple it's not converted fully, if it ssays the same color you are good.
But if you want, take like a white plate or ramekin or dish, add mash liquid to it, add a drop or two of iodine, if it turns black/purple it's not converted fully, if it ssays the same color you are good.
wheebz said:
I did it on chalk as per:
http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Iodine_Test
and it was iodine negative ...
I'm like 15 mins into the boil, now ...
During the mash I setup my 2nd freezer w/ temp-control to 32F and it's keeping between 30-33F or so, I think ...
I've got the plate chiller setup w/ the immersion chiller as a pre-chiller, to sit in the sink in an ice bath, and I'm using a small BIAB bag with the hops in it tonight, to try to help mitigate the hassle of cleaning the bazooka during the CIP ...
Mostly it's going nice today ... I kind of enjoyed measuring out the ingredients, pretty much as I thought I would ...
Thanks for helping w/ the recipe and looking over it ...
Hopefully the wort chilling is improved for using both devices ...
No floods or pump st00pids ... at least not so far, anyways ...
Ozzy2001 said:
That's good ...
Tonight, while brewing, I figured out how little it would take to do 5-6 gallon batches, without having to buy very much, beyond a bigger kettle ...
In order to boil a batch of that size inside, I would just need to use both the range, and an electric element in my kettle w/ the controller ...
So I can buy a 10 gallon kettle, punch it in a couple of places w/ a stepping-bit (the one for my Weber kettle will be fine, or I'll get the greenlee for the spigot size, actually, probably), and use it on the stove, and also plugged in to the outlet ...
I would only need to give it the boost from the range burner to get to the boil in timely fashion ...
I have the 2000 kw element in my kettle now, so I know the controller is setup for my adding a 2000 kw element to the new kettle ...
Since I assembled mine, and have extended the design, I now know all of the couplers and plumbing and stuff, so I won't have to buy anyone else's design going forward, unless I want to anyways ...
It takes a long time to do AG batches with full 90 mins mash & boil ... but you know, being new and inexperienced in a myriad of ways, I might as well reap the quality benefits of the extended mash & boil, since other shit may or may not go as well as I'd like ... LOL.
Still, makes for a pretty extended event, doing AG ... I can't imagine doing another batch right behind this ... not at all.
CHEERS!
I moved the 1.002 FG Saison L'Orange batch from the 3gal primary to the 2.5gal keg earlier on a dropper's worth of biofine, but I totally forgot the CO2 purge ...
It's pretty damn full, and some trub/yeast went through the siphon, so i think it might do ok, but i did forget that part ...need to get beer gun out, and figure it out now ...
The 2.5 gal keg is now sealed up, not a fermentation lid, but a normal keg lid ...
It's in a freezer around 32F, so I don't have to worry about pressure build-up now, right? ...
Next move will be to charge it up w/ CO2, right? ... how many days at 32F? ... can I just charge it up in there, or will i need to transfer it because of the biofine ... can I just charge it in there and expect the first glasses with have crap, or ? ...
Hate to keep moving it and oxidizing it ... and there shouldn't be yeasties after this crash, I imagine ...
Hmmm ...
OK ...
Wheebz Quickie Saison ...
Quite an unfortunate ground water temp today!
But, oddly enough, the pH was better ...
So I skipped the citric acid and used a little pH5.2 ...
I weighed my ingredients for the first time ...
Also first time w/ a starter ...
First use of hop bag ... helpful.
Continued ...
First ran without ice bath for pre-chiller ...
Then added it at like 110F ...
Ice ran out with temp around 79-80F ...
Which is probably right around the same temp as the starter, or certainly within five degrees ...
Gave it a little nutrient ...
Though to just use erlenmeyer from starter for blow-off, but forgot to get an OG ...
I think I didn't boil at .5 gal, so I'll need to hone in on the boil off rate vs kettle efficiency to tweak ...
Temp adjusted OG in 83F wort = 1046.
It's pretty damn full, and some trub/yeast went through the siphon, so i think it might do ok, but i did forget that part ...need to get beer gun out, and figure it out now ...
The 2.5 gal keg is now sealed up, not a fermentation lid, but a normal keg lid ...
It's in a freezer around 32F, so I don't have to worry about pressure build-up now, right? ...
Next move will be to charge it up w/ CO2, right? ... how many days at 32F? ... can I just charge it up in there, or will i need to transfer it because of the biofine ... can I just charge it in there and expect the first glasses with have crap, or ? ...
Hate to keep moving it and oxidizing it ... and there shouldn't be yeasties after this crash, I imagine ...
Hmmm ...
OK ...
Wheebz Quickie Saison ...
Quite an unfortunate ground water temp today!
But, oddly enough, the pH was better ...
So I skipped the citric acid and used a little pH5.2 ...
I weighed my ingredients for the first time ...
Also first time w/ a starter ...
First use of hop bag ... helpful.
Continued ...
First ran without ice bath for pre-chiller ...
Then added it at like 110F ...
Ice ran out with temp around 79-80F ...
Which is probably right around the same temp as the starter, or certainly within five degrees ...
Gave it a little nutrient ...
Though to just use erlenmeyer from starter for blow-off, but forgot to get an OG ...
I think I didn't boil at .5 gal, so I'll need to hone in on the boil off rate vs kettle efficiency to tweak ...
Temp adjusted OG in 83F wort = 1046.
The yeasties are rollin' ...
I didn't no-chill, but I'm still looking forward to doing a bunch of batches into the HDPE containers ...
closed-system transfers become automatic blow off tube into starter flask -yes, please =)
I didn't no-chill, but I'm still looking forward to doing a bunch of batches into the HDPE containers ...
closed-system transfers become automatic blow off tube into starter flask -yes, please =)