wheebz said:
This absolutely does work. The theory behind it is that lager yeasts can indeed work at higher Temps and very quickly compared to when they ferment at lower temperatures and produce that same clean neutral taste from a lack of production of acedaldehydes, phenolic compounds, and esters. fermenting under pressure does indeed surpress the formation of these compounds and can even negate them all together. This is why German brewers brew in open top fermenter for hefes and dunkel because it allows for maximum ester production.
Technically you would not have to raise them temp to 70 for a diacetyl rest because with this method you should be fermenting in the 75 to 80 degree range.
This is what budweiser does. This is how miller and coors are made. They turn over lagers in 14 days like this.
This is for lager production though. You want all the things this methOD surpresses in your ale fermentations. And there are other factors involved than just temp and pressure bug you will figure those out. Sounds like a fun experiment.
Ohh and I'm still gonna tell you, not a single brewery in the world doesn't chill their wort. Hell even the Belgiums use coolships to chill their wort faster than just letting it slowly chill using just room temp.
I don't get your obsession with not following a crucial and necessary step in wort production but hey if you weird home brewers like your beer to continue to be full of easily preventable off flavors by not running your beer through a wort chiller after boiling then by all means continue to do so.
Sorry, I'm
not planning to no-chill this ... it's something I've been working on that's born out of my research while I was planning to no-chill.
I'm happy w/ my new plate-chiller routine, it's kool and the gang and not as big of a deal as trying to use the immersion chiller as a pre-chiller for the plate chiller ...
I would definitely consider dropping the ice portion of the no-chill (I can get to 100F easily via tap-water, and then need to pump ice water through the plate chiller to get down low) though, to do this, and then transfer it in at the bottom of where the groundwater can get it - which is around 95F ... and then I think while it oxygenates off the disturbance of being pumped against the walls of the keg, I'm sure the temp will drop a little more and the keg can dissipate heat to the air for being metal ...
But yeah, I've been really close to brewing one of these, just need to decide if I'm using a filter housing or an extra (smallish) keg for the water trap between the ferm-keg and the spunding valve.
I've got two (one w/ a dial, one without) that are meant for counter-pressure filling here already, but the parts are coming to build two better one's ... one using stuff from Amazon, and one using parts from McMaster-Carr ...
Good times ... thought I might do the WLP940 this way!
Hawaiianero said:
Dude.........whaaaaaaat????
I normally think I am a fairly intelligent guy but your post just dropped be back into grade school. All I could gather is you have a question about fermenting under pressure.
You definitely earned your nickname "Gadget"
Even though the fermenters (which can be pressurized) in a brew house aren't typically - they are inherently ...
.43 psi per foot of liquid, and many are 15 ft tall, which amounts to about 6 psi down at the yeast cake (for bottom fermenting yeast, anyways) ...
There's some decent reason to believe that one of the reasons professionally brewed beer is "better" than homebrew is because of the this, along w/ the severely limited chance of infection of the system remaining closed afterwards ...
It's achievable at home, and I can't help myself ...
Should I be taking the time for this, instead of recipe development ... probably not.
It's just who I am ...
tctenten said:
This is not homebrew - it's about brewing like a pro, in your home.
