beer =[ GM's 1st 16x Batches, and/or 10 mo. Brewing ]=

The BrewHardware guy, Bobby I think - if I recall correctly from months ago, is super helpful ...
 
I'm considering assembling and breaking down my plumbing per-batch, actually ...
 
Yeah, for sure on the boil kettle. Make sure no nasties get in there. I'm really digging the solderable fittings. I was going to have my father in law weld some couplers in, but I can easily solder if I buy those.

I'm planning on 3 holes. Valve, temp/sight glass, and whirlpool port. I like the idea of soldering way better than trusting the silicone washers on a boil kettle.

So you're going to try to trub guard as opposed to a bazooka screen?
 
Ozzy2001 said:
Yeah, for sure on the boil kettle. Make sure no nasties get in there. I'm really digging the solderable fittings. I was going to have my father in law weld some couplers in, but I can easily solder if I buy those.

I'm planning on 3 holes. Valve, temp/sight glass, and whirlpool port. I like the idea of soldering way better than trusting the silicone washers on a boil kettle.

So you're going to try to trub guard as opposed to a bazooka screen?
Click to expand...
 
Yes ... but only because I have squat kettle, and a high-temp filter housing and 304 filter ... and the bazooka SUCKS in terms of cleaning/sanitization ...
 
grantmichaels said:
 
Yes ... but only because I have squat kettle, and a high-temp filter housing and 304 filter ... and the bazooka SUCKS in terms of cleaning/sanitization ...
Click to expand...
I'm curious as to how well a trub guard/dip tube will work in my keggle, having a domed bottom and all. I haven't really figured all of that out yet.
 
Ozzy2001 said:
I'm curious as to how well a trub guard/dip tube will work in my keggle, having a domed bottom and all. I haven't really figured all of that out yet.
Click to expand...
 
Apparently the deal is that as the water level lowers, when the trub cone sticks out above the water level, the cone falls and spreads outward ...
 
The guard keeps that from going through the tubing, and reportedly works quite well in that regard, since it sits right on the bottom when properly installed ...
 
When it comes to whirlpooling it does more than just make a trub cone right? Because, I can just stir the ish out of the wort and accomplish the same thing. And using the counter flow chiller, I don't need to recirculate to help cool it either.
 
whirlpooling is done with the purpose of creating a trub cone and pulling particulates down to the center of the kettle and away from openings to outlets and pumps
 
It is done to save you beer that you would otherwise dump
 
imagine a fermenter with all your yeasties spread evenly out across the bottom, and using a racking cane
 
now imagine if all those yeasties were in a cylinder right in the middle, how much more beer you could get out without pulling yeast up with it
 
same concept
 
It's just the tea leaf paradox ...
 
I mean, yes and no ...
 
I was going to go that route myself, and have one of these: http://amzn.com/B00XK4PP5I
 
But, getting the pick-up down really low is going to make a huge difference in the amount of beer I get out of such a broad kettle ...
 
I'll lose too much beer and have to pour, if I don't whirlpool gather ...
 
And ... I like whirlpool additions from what I've experienced so far ...
 
Ozzy2001 said:
Well, I'm not sure I want to bother with putting a whirlpool arm in when my stirring has been doing the job quite well, and I use a counter flow chiller.
Click to expand...
 
Your dimensions aren't going to be as critical in that regard in a keg, and they make kits with pick-up tubing designed to what I figure is a pretty tight spec ...
 
I have some doubts about how good of a cone someone could do manually, but no experience to backup that suspicion ...
 
One errant paddle could probably cause a twister =)
 
Lol wish I still had the picture. I made a pretty good cone with an 1"-1.5" perimeter clear along the outside of my pot.
Here's when I did my DIPA which had 5oz of hops in it
 
I haven't had much trub the way I've been doing stuff, truth be told ...
 
The BIAB bags don't let much out, nor does the SS mesh hop spider or whatever you call it ...
 
But, the beers w/ wheat and stuff make some proteins that tend to clog up the bazooka, and then the bazooka becomes a fin and fucks up the circulation ...
 
some of the best cones I have had were manual
 
on the 1bbl pilot system I use, I take 10 seconds to whirlpool. Kayak paddle in a clockwise motion for 8 or 10 seconds, and im done and the cone is fucking amazing
 
wheebz said:
some of the best cones I have had were manual
 
on the 1bbl pilot system I use, I take 10 seconds to whirlpool. Kayak paddle in a clockwise motion for 8 or 10 seconds, and im done and the cone is f**king amazing
Click to expand...
 
Yes, Mr. Awesome ...
 
Now ...
 
Tell me about foam coloring ...
 
Which grains and/or adjuncts have you noticed contribute to darkening the head? ...
 
I'm having fun try to figure that one out ...
 
I've seen some Red IPA's that get a off-white coloration from presumably hop oils ...
 
I've seen big barrel aged beers with dark, dark head ...
 
But I think the beer I've made that had the most, got it from either black patent, pale chocolate, or crystal malts ... because they are the stand-out ingredients from the Darkness Everybody batch to the others ...
 
the higher percentage of roasted malts the darker your foam monster
 
which is why guinness has a super white head, is that it only uses a little bit of black malts to get its color and a touch of dark flavor, but almost all of it is base malt
 
and then you look at like ten fidy and its like dark brown
 
for your red IPA's, its very easy to get that color using a touch of roasted barley/chocolate malt, but still maintain that white head
ive seen recipes using as little 1.5 to 2% roasted barley just to make a pilsner an amber
 
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