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Grafting A Multi-Pepper Plant?
- Thread starter PrairieChilihead
- Start date
crazy8 said:
Precicely, space moneys, the first
(It's got the Apollo 11 theme ok... 
)PCH I forgot to say that I sliced the plants longways as in the second splicing pic which was posted, it seemed the easiest but on second thoughts it wsa difficult to line up and tie the plants together.
The attached part is really looking quite sad. To make a perfect hot pepper you have to break some plants...
I think the idea will work but you may not have success this season with it. I did some research and found this....
Step By Step Guide To Grafting Plants
1. Wait until early spring to collect the sections ready for grafting. The scion should always include at least three dormant leaf buds. It should also be of last year’s shoots, meaning that it came well last year. This will ensure that the process stands a chance. Place the scion in water until the rootstock has been readied for the process to begin.
2. Prepare a sterile and sharp knife in order to make the cut.
3. Cut the rootstock about 6” above the ground and make sure that the cut is clean. It should be cut upwards, meaning that there is a diagonal slope on the top of it, which will fit the scion perfectly.
4. Take the scion out of water and place the two edges together until they fit perfectly. When they do, use rubber grafting tape to bind the two sections together and use grafting wax to seal the tape.
5. Check on the graft regularly to make sure that t is not diseased in any way. After a few weeks, the graft should begin to take, which you will be able to see from the level of fusion in the join. After six months, it should be fully fused and sprouting.
most sites I read says to do the graft in early spring or while the plant is dormant.
Step By Step Guide To Grafting Plants
1. Wait until early spring to collect the sections ready for grafting. The scion should always include at least three dormant leaf buds. It should also be of last year’s shoots, meaning that it came well last year. This will ensure that the process stands a chance. Place the scion in water until the rootstock has been readied for the process to begin.
2. Prepare a sterile and sharp knife in order to make the cut.
3. Cut the rootstock about 6” above the ground and make sure that the cut is clean. It should be cut upwards, meaning that there is a diagonal slope on the top of it, which will fit the scion perfectly.
4. Take the scion out of water and place the two edges together until they fit perfectly. When they do, use rubber grafting tape to bind the two sections together and use grafting wax to seal the tape.
5. Check on the graft regularly to make sure that t is not diseased in any way. After a few weeks, the graft should begin to take, which you will be able to see from the level of fusion in the join. After six months, it should be fully fused and sprouting.
most sites I read says to do the graft in early spring or while the plant is dormant.
Here is a link to some posts that were made on another site when I was trying to get my Habanero Arbol to grow as many different peppers as I could graft onto it...
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/771750/
There are some links to grafting info on it.
I had some stuff saved from a guy who sucessfully grafted a pepper plant-several if I remember right.
That hard drive got the smoke let out of it a while back so I lost the info.
They sell little clips to use for grafting that are really cool.
No wax etc.scroll down-tomato grafting clips
http://www.hydro-gardens.com/growsup1.htm
http://www.tradealliance.biz/graftingclips.htm
grafting info-the fig.4 veneer graft was what the guy at the nursery said to use for peppers.
cleft grapft wouldn't take after many tries...
T-Budd was also sugested
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/grafting.html
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/ag396.html
http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/graftingGHtomato.html
http://www.hort.uconn.edu/ipm/greenhs/htms/Tomgraft.htm
I want to try the tongue aproach grafting
Put several plant varieties in a 15 gal pot as sprouts.When they get big enough do the graft.
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/771750/
There are some links to grafting info on it.
I had some stuff saved from a guy who sucessfully grafted a pepper plant-several if I remember right.
That hard drive got the smoke let out of it a while back so I lost the info.
They sell little clips to use for grafting that are really cool.
No wax etc.scroll down-tomato grafting clips
http://www.hydro-gardens.com/growsup1.htm
http://www.tradealliance.biz/graftingclips.htm
grafting info-the fig.4 veneer graft was what the guy at the nursery said to use for peppers.
cleft grapft wouldn't take after many tries...
T-Budd was also sugested
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/grafting.html
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/ag396.html
http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/graftingGHtomato.html
http://www.hort.uconn.edu/ipm/greenhs/htms/Tomgraft.htm
I want to try the tongue aproach grafting
Put several plant varieties in a 15 gal pot as sprouts.When they get big enough do the graft.
millworkman
eXtreme
Smokemaster, good to see you around. Lets keep these tries coming guys. Mine grafted with electrical tape is holding on for now. Will get pictures later when I find my digicam.
Thanks Guys, it's ok, I will definitely try it again, have not give up. Soon my friends, soon there will be a world of watermelon sized Habaneros and we can take over the world (evil Laugh)...
Thanks for all that info, damm thats great, I will follow those instructions and give it another go, a stronger branch next time, that poor thing would have bent with 1 Aphid sitting on it.
Thanks for all that info, damm thats great, I will follow those instructions and give it another go, a stronger branch next time, that poor thing would have bent with 1 Aphid sitting on it.
This might help.
Healing & Acclimatization: Proper healing and acclimatization are very important for grafted plants to survive. After the grafts are made, the plants must be protected from wilting until the cut ends knit together (heal). Keep the grafted plants at about 86°F and with more than 95% relative humidity for 3-5 days while the cut ends heal together. This can be accomplished by placing the grafted plants under a heavily shaded area with fog or mist. Alternatively for small scale operations, the newly grafted plants can be placed under an opaque plastic tent or a humidity dome covered with an opague plastic or even newspaper to reduce light levels (Figure 8). Plants under the tent or dome should be misted once or twice a day during this period. A small had-held pressurized sprayer works well for small scale misting.
After healing, the plants must be re-acclimated to the full-sun conditions of the greenhouse environment. Do this gradually over a period of 3 to 4 days. Start increasing the light exposure by removing the opague plastic sheeting (if using humidity domes). Start by cracking open the tent or domes a few hours in the early or late part of the day and increase the interval each day. Continue to mist as needed to avoid wilting. After a few days, move the plants completely into the house but continue to mist as needed to avoid wilt.
Finally, when you plant the grafted plants into the production house it is important to keep the graft union above the soil line. Tomatoes tend to root easily and if the scion roots into the soil, the plant will be susceptible to soil-borne diseases and you will some of the benefits of the graft.
Healing & Acclimatization: Proper healing and acclimatization are very important for grafted plants to survive. After the grafts are made, the plants must be protected from wilting until the cut ends knit together (heal). Keep the grafted plants at about 86°F and with more than 95% relative humidity for 3-5 days while the cut ends heal together. This can be accomplished by placing the grafted plants under a heavily shaded area with fog or mist. Alternatively for small scale operations, the newly grafted plants can be placed under an opaque plastic tent or a humidity dome covered with an opague plastic or even newspaper to reduce light levels (Figure 8). Plants under the tent or dome should be misted once or twice a day during this period. A small had-held pressurized sprayer works well for small scale misting.
After healing, the plants must be re-acclimated to the full-sun conditions of the greenhouse environment. Do this gradually over a period of 3 to 4 days. Start increasing the light exposure by removing the opague plastic sheeting (if using humidity domes). Start by cracking open the tent or domes a few hours in the early or late part of the day and increase the interval each day. Continue to mist as needed to avoid wilting. After a few days, move the plants completely into the house but continue to mist as needed to avoid wilt.
Finally, when you plant the grafted plants into the production house it is important to keep the graft union above the soil line. Tomatoes tend to root easily and if the scion roots into the soil, the plant will be susceptible to soil-borne diseases and you will some of the benefits of the graft.
millworkman
eXtreme
Does anyone have one that actually took?
My tree habanero is growing new leaves and branches now.I'm going to try a few grafts with small branches from several of my other pepper plants that are also into the growth mode.
If I'm successful I'll post about it with pics.
If I'm successful I'll post about it with pics.
Any updates?
Did any of us in the Southern hemisphere try grafting?
Cheers,
RS
Did any of us in the Southern hemisphere try grafting?
Cheers,
RS
Surely someone has been successful???
I can't believe there is a thread about this! I was sitting in the lunch room at work 1 week ago reading a nursery magazine and read an article on grafting. A light bulb appeared and I said to everyone that it wanted to give it a go with chillies as I had heard of the "fruit salad tree". I thought I was the only one to think of this I pinched the mag and have it in my car so will have a read of it again to get some tips.
So now that I know you guys have all tried it is there any tips you would give or is there anything you would say definately not to do?
I would be interested in seeing some pics also if anyone has been successful?
I pinched the mag and have it in my car so will have a read of it again to get some tips.So now that I know you guys have all tried it is there any tips you would give or is there anything you would say definately not to do?
I would be interested in seeing some pics also if anyone has been successful?
millworkman
eXtreme
Use real grafting supplies and do not try to "wing it"
so it's been a few months with no more responses....i can only assume failure for all?