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Grafting A Multi-Pepper Plant?

PrairieChilihead said:
I have a dream to take a well established 2 year old Seven Pod plant with a thick, woody trunk and graft branches from maybe 3 other peppers onto it. I'm thinking maybe a Fatalii branch, a Naga and a Bhut Jolokia. I have so little room to over winter plants that such a creation would provide me with a nice pepper assortment and also be an interesting project. Those peppers are sufficiently different in colour and shape to be visually arresting.

Of course, it's just a dream. But is it possible? Has anyone ever done such a thing?
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I think might work grafting it but when you have two of more variety on one plant if you succeed like grafting fruit trees only think you have to do over winter that plant every year & you will have good production bunch different variety on the singe plant.Good luck my friend!!!!!!!!!!
:lol:
 
OK, asked a guy here at work that grafts lots of japanese maples and such, and he said a simple splice graft is all that would be needed, and the graft should take pretty easily! He also thought it would be best to have a relatively young plant as the rootstock, and to avoid trying to graft any woody tissue. Soft branches should work fine though.

Here's a pic of a simple splice graft...

ag396-5.gif


And here's the website where I got the info. Right here in NC too.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/grafting.html
 
Not positive Carol, but I do know that it's done with tomatoes when they're very small. From what I gathered talking to the guy here at work, pretty much any time would do for a non-woody plant like peppers.
 
Yeah Im thinkin Im all over this one. I have always wanted to do something like this when I was a kid and saw in a book demonstrated how you could take a fruit baring branch from an apple tree and graft it to a small sprouted tree. Thus creating a fruit baring bonsai if I recall. Now I have some plants to do it with.
***Rubs hands together*** Yes all sorts of plants that could meet my blade. Oh but which ones to choose.
 
I have a BHUT that is flowering now and the Gardner broke off a small branch leading off to the side. It's been about a week, but if I did cut it back a little could I still try a grafe? I have quit a few other plants that I could take a stem off of that has 3-4 leaves. I did a little reading and I think I would need some type of sterile wrap and some type of graffing compound to cover them with, but other than that I guess it should work. Of course I will use gloves and sterilize my sharp fillet knife. Any other suggestions? I may do it this weekend if I can find the wrap and compound locally.
 
Oh Boy! Now I'm fired up! I didn't even think this was possible...I was really goofing around, but I'm going to do this too. So, like Carol, I am wondering if this is something to do now, while the plants are in the ground and growing, or in the Winter when they slow down and go dormant.

Thanks for making this so interesting!
 
Not positive about this, but pretty sure there's no time like the present. If you have established rootstock plant, the go for it! The grafting expert I asked said the only stumbling block he could see was the woodiness of older stems. So if you're grafting soft green tissue onto soft green tissue, you should have better luck. It would seem to me that while plants are actively growing, they'll be more likely to heal graft unions than when they're dormant. Read a bit about grafting on the net to get your mind right, and go for it! Hell, what do you have to lose, a branch? Could be much worse I'd say. Start with one or two grafts and if you have good luck, go wild.
 
Heres some usefull info.

Abstract
The cause of the low survival rate of sweet pepper plants after grafting was investigated and compared with findings of eggplant and tomato plants, and the promotive effect of ascorbic acid (AA) was determined. Sweet pepper plants formed less callus at the cut surfaces of the stem compared to eggplant and tomato plants. Foliar application with 100 mg Lāˆ’1 AA promoted callus formation at the cut surfaces of the scion stems and improved the survival rate after grafting. We suggest that the low survival rate of grafted sweet pepper plants is caused by their low rate of callus formation, and that AA can be used to promote graft-take through the acceleration of callus formation at the cut surfaces of the stems.
 
patrick said:
What is L-1 AA anyway?
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That would read as 100mg ascorbic acid per liter. Ascorbic Acid is Vitamin C. I've never tried this, but it sounds like you could take a 100mg Vitamin C tablet and dissolve it in a Liter of water to promote callus formation. This would improve the results of grafting and maybe cloning.
 
I understand the theory behind this idea. Bit I have a question....

When we plant different varieties of peppers we seperate them to try to stop cross pollenation.

Would that not happen if there were 3 different peppers growing on 1 plant?
 
I also think that when your grafting the "root" of the plant doesn't know the difference between different pepper plants that are being attached to it. I suppose the root part of it sees this as a sort of injury and tries to heal itself which in turn it kind of does but it does in a way that it kind of becomes a different plant.
 
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