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Jeff H's 2014 glog- Season ending harvest pics.

Okay, time to kick this growing year off. First a pic from last year of the hydroponic scorpion right before I added it to the compost pile. The plant was so productive with 4 gallon freezer bags stuffed plus more already dried that not only did I decide to not overwinter it, but TSBTs won't be on the grow list next year. This was truly a beast and by far my most productive plant. IIRC, it was over 5' tall and just about as wide when hte branches were heavy with pods.
 
It was started about this time last year, so it is about time to start some of those pesky slower growing plants if I want them this big next year.
 
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All good things come to an end. The plants will be chopped up and mixed with the leaves for compost.
 
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Okay, with that out of the way, let's get started on next year.
 
First, a shot of some of the over winter plants in the upstairs window sill. I just plan on keeping them alive here with no real growth expected until I put them outside next year. The two small plants are scorpion clones from the monster. I still don't think they will make the grow next year, but I just couldn't kill it without taking a couple clones. Other overwinters in this pic include a ghost pepper, hot paper lantern hab, tabasco pepper, my largest and most productive giant jalapeno and a couple of others.
 
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Now down into the grow room for an overall shot of what I am doing this year. The flood table is new, but everything else is the same from last year. Same 600W MH light and same mylar on the walls.
 
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Now at this point, let me take a minute to explain that there is no organic soil in anything I brought inside, nor anything that I plan to plant this year. Everything will be hydroponic in one way or another. Even the plants upstairs. My soil for all plants not in the flood table is 50/50 perlite and peat moss. I water them with hydro nutes every few days, but probably can get away with once a week or so. Soil drains really well but the peat moss holds a decent amount of moisture. I'm hoping that we have no issues with root rot this year. I'm also betting that fungus gnats won't like this fast drying soil either. Well that and the mosquito dunks that will be in the hydro water if those bastards do show up again this year.
 
A close up of the "soil". Look at all that great perlite.

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Now, looking at the plants in the flood table, the perlite/pete moss is about 80/20 and I flood hte table once a day. As it is, there is probably too much pete in the soil because the grow bags stay soaked all the time and I'm going to have mold issues. I need to rethink this, but this is what I have for now.
 
Here they are the day it was installed on Oct 21st.
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Here they are a week later (last night). You can't really see it, but there are a couple of tiny growth nodes on the ghost pepper (big pot on the left) and the paper lantern in the black pot. No sign of growth on the monzano yet, but if you look close at the pot, you can see what looks like mold starting. I tossed a cup of H2O2 into the rez last night to kill it if it was mold. We'll see. Maybe plastic air pruning pots would be better suited, or giant net cups.
 
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That is all for now. Join me back on the next update. I'm working hot and heavy on some clones and other projects that aren't quite ready to be photographed yet. Soon though.
 
maximumcapsicum said:
Veggies look perfect. Gonna hit up that thread and learn to boil like a cajun.
 
 
HillBilly Jeff said:
Those veges are looking wonderful
 
Thanks guys. Veggies are looking better than some of the peppers
 
Devv said:
Gonna have to read up on the Cajun plate Jeff, looks good!
 
Interesting about the lights.
 
Weekend's approaching!
 
Thanks Scott. Weekend can't come soon enough.
 
 
This update is mostly pod shots but I have a couple other things to discuss too.
 
1st is the problem plant. This one is a Caribean Red but I have several other plants showing similar characteristics. I'm guessing this is nutrient related, but I've researched it a couple of times and don't see anything conclusive.
 
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My finger shown for reference. This plant is actually smaller than when it went in the ground a month ago. All of the large indoor leaves fell off and were replaced with these tiny tiny crinkly looking leaves. The plant is short and stunted.
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Putting out plenty of buds, but look how compact the plant is. I can't figure this out.
 
Similar issues with a reaper that is near the hab, but the reaper is much larger  overall and much better looking. Same wavy leaves on the new growth though. Old growth looks normal.
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Jalapeno with some nute issues too. I think I have this figured out but looking for confirmation. What does it look like to you?
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A few more damaged plants but most are healthy and growing strong so if I could just get these 1/2 dozen or so moving in the right direction, I'd be really pleased.
 
 
 
 
 
This is a WTF photo. Mirasol peppers are annuums, right?????????? Why do I count 4 flowers on one node then?  After I saw this I googled mirasol pictures and sure enough, they have multiple peppers per node.
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A wall of Romas photo for Trent. These weren't buried much deeper than the 5" pot they were in. Plant grew fairly compact and exploded outside. On a strange note, the soil mixture is the same for the peppers and tomatoes. The tomatoes sure seem happy.
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1s Pasilla bajio
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big peppers, small plant- more corno de torno
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Biggest of the paper lanterns.
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That is 10. Need a bump.
 
GA Growhead said:
Some of those leaves look like mild mite damage. Especially on the reaper with the thin looking leaves. I'm hoping not.
The corno de torno is too funny! Pod is bigger than the plant!
 
Yeah, I forgot to mention that battling broad mites is like my 2nd hobby.  There is a special place in hell for mites :fire:  I should have mentioned that. I was more trying to showcase the small and crinkly leaves. Not sure what causes that.
Adult bhut leaves have that look, but Habs do not. Not sure about the reaper, but from pictures, I doubt it is normal.
The rest of the pics shortly unless Google and I disagree more today.
 
I haven't looked back through what I've missed since last I checked in here.  Maybe it's been addressed already, but using uncomposted wood chips for mulch could be part of the problem with those stunted peppers.  They could be leaching something the peppers don't like or, as they decay, they could be tying up nutrients that would otherwise be available to the peppers.  The fact the tomatoes seem happy argues against that, but their needs aren't exactly the same as peppers.  I just know I've heard it often said you shouldn't use uncomposted chips.
 
I've got practically the same thing going on here Jeff... minus the broad mites. I think the problem for me is sustained cold for weeks on end. Now that I covered the Chinense peppers with an insulating row cover fabric they've all put on new growth and in the case of the big King Naga plant, the flower stems are staying green and sticking. Wood chip mulch may help keep the weeds down (especially if you put down sheets of newspaper underneath it) but it increases the albedo of the soil surface. The more light you reflect away, the cooler the soil becomes, and we all know the Nightshades like warm feet. Also, the wood sucks up nitrogen from the soil as it (slowly) decays. You might want to give 'em a shot of liquid nutes or a side dressing of high N ferts. Cheers!
 
ChiliNoob said:
Thanks
 
maximumcapsicum said:
Great pods Jeff! Lovin the lanterns! Bump.
Thanks Adam. A few more below.
 
Sawyer said:
I haven't looked back through what I've missed since last I checked in here.  Maybe it's been addressed already, but using uncomposted wood chips for mulch could be part of the problem with those stunted peppers.  They could be leaching something the peppers don't like or, as they decay, they could be tying up nutrients that would otherwise be available to the peppers.  The fact the tomatoes seem happy argues against that, but their needs aren't exactly the same as peppers.  I just know I've heard it often said you shouldn't use uncomposted chips.
 
Nitrogen tie up is always in the back of my mind with the wood chips. I don't see any symptoms though, but I agree, they could be leaching something else out. But what?
 
Tomatoes are happy and so are the onions and beets.
 
stickman said:
I've got practically the same thing going on here Jeff... minus the broad mites. I think the problem for me is sustained cold for weeks on end. Now that I covered the Chinense peppers with an insulating row cover fabric they've all put on new growth and in the case of the big King Naga plant, the flower stems are staying green and sticking. Wood chip mulch may help keep the weeds down (especially if you put down sheets of newspaper underneath it) but it increases the albedo of the soil surface. The more light you reflect away, the cooler the soil becomes, and we all know the Nightshades like warm feet. Also, the wood sucks up nitrogen from the soil as it (slowly) decays. You might want to give 'em a shot of liquid nutes or a side dressing of high N ferts. Cheers!
 
Interesting thought about the temperature. I guess that could be stunting them. It has been a cool spring so far.
 
Nutes- not yet. There is a bunch of compost and manure mixed in that soil and I sprinkled some slow release 10-10-10 down a few weeks before I put the plants in. If anything, I am leading to a toxicity of some sort. I just can't put my finger on it.
 
 
The rest of the pics.
 
Red Thai
 
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Purple jalapeno
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Monzano shot
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I had a few more but they were out of focus.
 
Happy Friday Eve everyone.
 
Jeff H said:
 
Nutes- not yet. There is a bunch of compost and manure mixed in that soil and I sprinkled some slow release 10-10-10 down a few weeks before I put the plants in. If anything, I am leading to a toxicity of some sort. I just can't put my finger on it.
 
 
 
 
I spent the last hour reading articles on nutrient toxicities and deficiencies and I may have stumbled on to something.
 
This article is leading me towards Phosphorus deficiency.
 
 
From the article
 

Phosphorus Deficiency
l
Deeper green foliage.
l
Heavy stunting (compact form).
l
Purple (or red) pigmentation in several
species.
l
Fewer & longer roots, more root mass
at first, less when deficiency intense.
l
Lower leaf chlorosis -->necrosis
 
 
The chlorosis and then necrosis of the lower leaves was something I saw a few weeks ago and the severe stunting sure seems to point me in this direction.
 
Need to do more research, but a foliar spray high in P might be in order. (soil fertilizers won't do much now with all the rain we have had.
 
Interesting link.  With all the things that can go wrong, it's a wonder we ever get anything to grow.
 
I agree with all the comments about the cool weather.  I've got stunted plants here, too, and as far as I can tell, there's no nutrient-based reason for that to be so.   Yesterday was a nice, warm, sunny day, but today we're back to cloudy and only 68ºF at 9 am.  The high is supposed to be 73ºF.
 
maximumcapsicum said:
Seems like the 10-10-10 should still help out with that? Are the struggling plants all next to each other?
Plants aren't all in the same place.
 
That is exactly why I am scratching my head on this. Between the 10-10-10 and the compost, there should be an abundance of nutes. Look at the tomatoes. Now, mind you, tomatoes can take a higher concentration of nutes so toxicity is still very much on the table, if I could figure out what it is.
 
Here is another thought: It might be a P deficiency brought on by too much nitrogen in the soil. I read an article last year that pointed to the roots not absorbing certain nutrients if they were getting an excess of nitrogen.
 
Although, it might be as simple as Rick's comment about the cool temps. The stunted plants are all random plants, but they are all Chinense.
 
A few things:
 
I don't mulch the plants, just the walkways. Mainly because they mess up the flooding of the ditches. But I have read not to mulch plants until it's beneficial to help cool things down as it gets hotter.
 
I've read up a lot on using RCW to build soil after chatting with Gary. The most they say can happen is N being tied up the first year if tilled in. I believe you just put them on top so that shouldn't be a major issue in that regard. AND the plants are dark green.
 
Not knowing the source of the mulch is certainly an unknown (to me).
 
I have seen plants slow down with too much nutes. Lord knows I've killed plants in every which way at one time :shh:
 
A good soaking may help flush things out.
 
I only use granular ferts on corn as they are such heavy feeders. The peppers get small doses of 6-12-6, this way I have more control and can apply more often if needed.
 
I did think mites at first, and I know you have the 60x mag glass, so a look may be needed. However, I did not see any of the classic rust they create.
 
Mine in the raised beds look horrible, I feel it's mites and have treated them quite a few times. But I used fresh soil I purchased, didn't have time to plant a cover crop or allow any bad things to work themselves out. So I'm wondering if the soil had chems in it.
 
One last thing, the tom's as mentioned above certainly don't care about some things the peppers do.
 
In the long run I'm sure you get them squared away and kicking some tail!
 
Dude those pictures look surprisingly like mine after mine got a whiff of 2,4-D (or whatever auxjn stimulant was on the wind that they hit the corn fields with).
 
Basing that on several aberrations shown, like too many flowers per node, extraneous small crinkly leaves, and WAY too much forking. 
 
If it was the same crap I got hit with, LET IT RIDE! Those plants will work themselves out.
 
The outcome was positive on ALL of the new plants that got a whiff of it. The overwinters required pruning intervention and root stimulant, but they're back to normal now.
 
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