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Potawie needs help

Its not the bottom leaves falling off but all the new growth tip are burnt. Now the plants have to produce all new shoots which will set them back many weeks/months or even kill them.
I'm sure any commercial grower would monitor for pests. Most also start with treated seeds and often use hybrids or strains known for disease resistance and they also often use pesticides and fungicides approved only for commercial growers.
 
Potawie,

We raised tobacco commercially. plus planted close to an acre of potatoes and a couple hundred tomato plants each year. We never checked the plants for pests, at least not once we started growing large amounts.

As for pesticides that are approved, perhaps Canada is different, but the US does not differeniate between commerical and non-commercial growers as to what insecticde/pesticide can be used. Jeez, we used DDT for years to control potato bugs when I was a kid. Yeah, so my firstborn has three eyes and four ears - he can see and hear really good! (J/K - dad never sprayed the taters we would eat within six weeks).

I'm just saying I trust Mother Nature and the natural way plants grow. If leaves curl or fall off - crap happens. But it happens far more frequently with worse consequences indoors where nature cannot work.

Again, YMMV and my rantings should be taken with a grain of salt.

Mike
 
I had the same problem with the top leaves on several plants after a pretty significant aphid infestation. I went ahead and topped the affected plants just below the lowest affected leaves and they have been growing normal ever since. I certainly don't claim to be an expert but it worked for me. Good Luck!
 
I've worked in nurseries and commercial greenhouses and we always inspect the plants for bugs and disease. Monitoring is a very important part of an environmental pest management strategy
Also, if I just let mother nature take care of my peppers, then the aphids would have finished them off long ago. Nature often needs a helping hand
 
Potawie/Mike...my opinion on the theory of growing plants is very simple...if there is a problem, eliminate it...that is my gift to mother nature for all the other wonderful things she gives us...

IMO - most of our problems come from not recognizing the onset of the problem...that is why I look at each of my plants (more of quick inspection) every day...most I look at 3 or 4 times...I try to be quick with identification of a potential problem and work to eliminate it before it starts...

***thinking....was I ranting?***

I, like Potawie have deformations on the new growth of the plants but right now, there seems to be no ill effect from this...plant is growing and producing flowers and fruit...

Here is a series of photos of a clipping I took this morning from one of my bell pepper plants.

Deform1.jpg


Deform4.jpg


Deform3.jpg


Deform2.jpg


I know it is not a hot pepper but I had rather sacrifice new growth of a bell pepper than one of my hot peppers...same occurance with them...

I took these pics with my macro lens to get a real close look at the growth...I don't see anything out of the ordinary except deformed growth...
 
I have been thinking on what could be causing these abnormalities and have come up with a few thoughts to throw out there. First, since there seems to be different geographic regions being represented, I would rule out environmental. Next thought I have is could this be a result of some abnormality from last year that was unreported by the seed companies?

I really have no information to contribute other than another analytical mind that is brainstorming...

I have read and re-read this thread trying to find a commonality between all of you that have this weird new growth going on. I think that if a common element exists, then the answer will be there. We need to "sit down" and share our notes about everything from what type of peppers, where the seeds originated from, what type of soil, soil ph, water amounts/frequency/ph, types of fertalizers...ect...I truly believe that there is a commonality here somewhere...

Just my 2-cents and hope it helps, at least somewhat...
 
Paul,

What type of peppers: almost all of them whose leaves are plain green. The ones with purple leaves or variegated such as Fish or Filus Blue do not show any signs.

Where the seeds originated: Several different seed companies in the US and one in S. Africa. Some seeds came from forum members also.

What type of soil: I have to be unique. The bottom layer is dirt from the "dead" area of the garden. It fills the bottom of the container but I doubt the roots have reached that deep yet. It is almost 100 percent silt, according to the layer test. It has some peat with manure mixed with it. Next is a small layer of potting soil, followed by bagged top soil. The plant's roots sat on this and the rootball lined with potting soil and bagged top soil to the top of the rootball. Then more dead dirt was added until it reached the first leaf.

Soil ph: About 6.4-6.5 but it is hard to tell because of the levels of different mixtures.

Water amounts/frequency. The ones on the back porch and sidewalk have been overwatered - we are far above average rainfall for the year. The ones on the front porch about half as much, just enough to keep the soil moist, though the top dries out. That dead soil simply does not retain moisture. We had six inches of rain over a two-day period and a day later I was digging in the garden and the dirt did not clump together.

Types of ferts: 12-12-12 applied when I was mixing the dirts. Approximately one ounce per pot.

Amount of sunlight: The ones on the sidewalk and back porch have direct sun almost all day long. The ones on the front porch, which were recently transplanted have morning-very early afternoon sun.

Infestations: except for a couple of plants that seemed to have aphids just before I transplanted them, no signs on any other plants.

Stage of development: Most of the seeds were sown December 20-30, though a few were re-sown Feb. 7. The last were sown Feb. 23. They have been transplanted since May 1- May 30. Some have pods that are nearly ripe, some are flowers but no pods yet, the last that were planted have not flowered yet.

Temps: the ones that show the worst signs of curling are those whose first few days were in intense heat - low 90s. They were not in the direct sun except for the morning when the temps were low 70s - 80s. The ones on the back porch, most of which show far less curling and some next to none, started out in very cool weather, some days the temps not making it into the 60s. They had been out close to a month before we had more than two days in a row of 80 degree temps and six weeks before the 90s hit.

If I had to postulate a cause, it would be the plants' normal response to high temps, the kinds normally not seen this early in the season.

Mike
 
My peppers plants are doing the exact same thing, and have been for about a month. I just today found an aphid infestation on one of the plants, being farmed by ants. :( I don't see any pests at all on the rest of them.

Let us know if you ever figure this out..

- Eric
 
wordwiz said:
Paul,

What type of peppers: almost all of them whose leaves are plain green. The ones with purple leaves or variegated such as Fish or Filus Blue do not show any signs.

I guess we can rule out a type of pepper of a particular species

wordwiz said:
Where the seeds originated: Several different seed companies in the US and one in S. Africa. Some seeds came from forum members also.

Sounds like the next thing that can be ruled out is last years crop having an unknown problem

wordwiz said:
What type of soil: I have to be unique. The bottom layer is dirt from the "dead" area of the garden. It fills the bottom of the container but I doubt the roots have reached that deep yet. It is almost 100 percent silt, according to the layer test. It has some peat with manure mixed with it. Next is a small layer of potting soil, followed by bagged top soil. The plant's roots sat on this and the rootball lined with potting soil and bagged top soil to the top of the rootball. Then more dead dirt was added until it reached the first leaf.

Soil ph: About 6.4-6.5 but it is hard to tell because of the levels of different mixtures.

I find that this would be very unlikely as a common thread since you all seem to represent different geographical regions.

wordwiz said:
Water amounts/frequency. The ones on the back porch and sidewalk have been overwatered - we are far above average rainfall for the year. The ones on the front porch about half as much, just enough to keep the soil moist, though the top dries out. That dead soil simply does not retain moisture. We had six inches of rain over a two-day period and a day later I was digging in the garden and the dirt did not clump together.

This might be a similar factor since we all have had a very wet spring with lots of storms...

wordwiz said:
Types of ferts: 12-12-12 applied when I was mixing the dirts. Approximately one ounce per pot.

I would think that this is unlikely, but you all will have to compare notes on this.

wordwiz said:
Amount of sunlight: The ones on the sidewalk and back porch have direct sun almost all day long. The ones on the front porch, which were recently transplanted have morning-very early afternoon sun.

This also seems like a possible link. I know that AJ had a few plants that got sun-scald, but I don't know about the rest of you with this problem. If so, are the plants that got sun-scald the ones with the weird growth?

wordwiz said:
Infestations: except for a couple of plants that seemed to have aphids just before I transplanted them, no signs on any other plants.

Another possible link...Is it possible that the aphids this year are carrying some new type of disease? I know that we all have seen this with the mosquito population over the last few years.

wordwiz said:
Stage of development: Most of the seeds were sown December 20-30, though a few were re-sown Feb. 7. The last were sown Feb. 23. They have been transplanted since May 1- May 30. Some have pods that are nearly ripe, some are flowers but no pods yet, the last that were planted have not flowered yet.

Temps: the ones that show the worst signs of curling are those whose first few days were in intense heat - low 90s. They were not in the direct sun except for the morning when the temps were low 70s - 80s. The ones on the back porch, most of which show far less curling and some next to none, started out in very cool weather, some days the temps not making it into the 60s. They had been out close to a month before we had more than two days in a row of 80 degree temps and six weeks before the 90s hit.

Somthing else we probably should compare is, what has our individuale UV index been foe the year so far. Could this be caused by higher than normal UV levels for the particular plants development stage? OR Could this be a combination between higher UV levels coupled with an immediate heat wave.

I know in my area, we went from 70 degree weather right into the 90's without a gradual step. Could the plants be in some sort of shock, thus the new growth is trying to compensate by curling itself?

wordwiz said:
If I had to postulate a cause, it would be the plants' normal response to high temps, the kinds normally not seen this early in the season.

Mike, I want to thank you for taking the time to post all of this information. I really think that there has to be a common thread here somewhere and by comparing notes, we might be able to find the cause to this problem.

You may be right that this may be the plants' normal response to higher than normal temperatures and perhaps maybe higher than normal UV levels. I know that it seems every year the UV index keeps going up.

I hope that no one is offended by my suggestions or aid in analyzing this phenomenon. I am only trying to help....
 
Paul,

I really do think that your idea of going from cool to very hot temps without a stopover in the midpoints has a huge bearing. IIRC, both AJ and Potawie mentioned it got hot in a hurry.

My farming experiences shows me plants adapt very quickly to their situation. Newly transplanted plants will develop deep roots if the weather is dry following transplant, if it is wet, they don't. Tobacco plants have leaves straight up in the daytime in dry weather, exposing less surface to the sun. Yet at night, they droop and become perpendicular to the ground so they can collect the maximum amount of dew. In a drought, tomatoes will shed their outermost leaves as they are not needed.

Everyone so far (with the exception of those reporting an aphid infestation) say their plants are growing, flowering and forming fruit.
That's why I have to go with a natural response to stimuli.

Mike
 
I get the same thing sometimes.... alot of the time the plant grows out of it ( I often remove affected branches and wait for new growth).
I blame my tap water as it never happens to chilli plants I don't water. I found it struck my hydroponic chillis reguliarly.

Its very frustrating isn't it.
 
no sacrifice yet....I am going to check the ph of my soil today...gotta go get a test kit...
 
Thanks RWI...will order one today...that is exactly what I wanted and needed...chlorine removal from the tap water..
 
what I need

AlabamaJack said:
That is exactly what I wanted and needed...

My specialty.
Tap water is safer than bottled, but needs to be filtered for happiness.
A hose filter is easy, cheap, and once installed will provide your plants with pure goodness. Good luck :)
 
I did read somewhere about letting the water stand for 24 hours before you use it because of the chlorine in the water supply. I don't know how this helps to remove it though.
 
chlorine

rainbowberry said:
I did read somewhere about letting the water stand for 24 hours before you use it because of the chlorine in the water supply. I don't know how this helps to remove it though.

The chlorine and/or chloramine evaporates over time. Easier is using a carbon filter. They are very cheap and make a world of difference.
 
unfiltered tap water???

stillmanz said:
I blame my tap water. I found it struck my hydroponic chillis regularly.

You grow hydroponically and use unfiltered tap water???

That's like building a race car and using discount tires from costco.
 
I would say go for the water filter thing and give it a try. If that works great...

BTW the purpose of my earlier post was to try and find a commonality among everyone that has this problem. If you all are using regular tap water that has chlorine in it then there's the common thread Chlorine. However, everything that I have read concerning the effects of chlorine on plants is that it leads to chlorosis, which the plant will exhibit yellowing of the leaves and stunted growth. Plus, all of the articles I have read concerning this suggests that the chlorine contents have to be really high (like what is found in swimming pools) and usually higher than regular tap water. If the Chlorine in the tap water was the culprit, then why is it effecting so many people from so many differing areas. I know for a fact that each municipality has their own amounts of chlorine that they treat their water with, it's like their own 'recipe' and if you have traveled and tasted the local water you know what I mean. You can all contact your water supplier and get a fact sheet detailing the amounts of chlorine that is in it per unit to compare if there are any similar amounts.

I also hate to see pepper plants suffer along with my brethren scrambling for solutions. I still say that there has to be a common reason why this is happening.

I know that I don't have a specific answer to this problem and only seem to be offering up more questions than anything, but I think that is how we can solve this puzzle.
 
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