The road to DWC - ups, downs, info, failure, success, guidance....

Im not sure where you are getting the directions for mixing amounts but with GH nutes the amounts are for 3.79 liters or 1 US gallon. If it says 3ml micro 3ml grow and 3 ml bloom thats per gallon. Where did you read ?ml/10L thats almost 2 1/2 gallons of water and if your mixing by that your going to be way low on nute strength.
 
Its from the european bottles and I now understand that I did not think of it as a 3 part system...... the good thing about life is that you always learn new stuff  :party: Now I will go by 10ml of each (30ml total) as a base and ppm to further mix and succeed ;)
 
 
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So I guess that the drawing of a small plant is a seedling, the larger one vegging state plant, the flower drawing blooming stage, but what is the tomato ? Is that for fruit plants ? 10 - 5 - 15. 
 
In 17L that makes approx. 6ml micro - 3ml gro - 9ml bloom at half strength ?! 
 
Yea if you look at the light cycle thats for cannabis but they cant advertise it that way so they show a tomato instead of a big bud. LOL  Yea the little one is showing seedling stage and the big one is vegetation stage. That mix sounds like a good start just check your ppm and watch your plants.
 
Just came back from a weekend on the mountain. The plants grow like weeds. The root mass is twice as much as before the weekend. Guess the right amount of nutes really did matter BIG TIME! WC rules so far!

On the soil side of things in the tent:
I have a aji habanero. It has almost 100 flowers on it. But none set to pods. The stem out to the flower becomes light green and falls off with the flowers. Any idea? I might suspect it to be root bound.
 
Sounds like they may need more p-k. Do you have a fan in the tent? They need something to shake the flowers to pollinate since there aren't any natural pollinators.
 
Yes sir. Two fans blowing on the plants. I shook them somewhat rufly now. Peppers and chills are pretty self polinating, or that's my opinion. It's probably 70-90 flower buds, will have a hell of a time pollinating them my self ;)

I'll post a pic of the roots 2m btw...
 
NorwegianChili said:
Just came back from a weekend on the mountain. The plants grow like weeds. The root mass is twice as much as before the weekend. Guess the right amount of nutes really did matter BIG TIME! WC rules so far!

On the soil side of things in the tent:
I have a aji habanero. It has almost 100 flowers on it. But none set to pods. The stem out to the flower becomes light green and falls off with the flowers. Any idea? I might suspect it to be root bound.
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Let's take this a little slower. You just started this hydro program and the plants are probably still real stressed. Give them a month or so in their new environment before you start really worrying about flower drop. 
 
This is awesome. I wanna try a one bucket setup, just want to ask some questions, how important are the water temps? I don't intend to keep mine inside as it is spring here so outside would be the right place. I read the first page about the nutes you use and how often you change, just want to confirm the top ups. Is that with regular ph adjusted water or is that a nute and ph adjusted mix that you top up with. If I read correctly its a 45 day cycle between depleted nutes and changes?
 
This is awesome. I wanna try a one bucket setup, just want to ask some questions, how important are the water temps? I don't intend to keep mine inside as it is spring here so outside would be the right place. I read the first page about the nutes you use and how often you change, just want to confirm the top ups. Is that with regular ph adjusted water or is that a nute and ph adjusted mix that you top up with. If I read correctly its a 45 day cycle between depleted nutes and changes?


A single bucket would be a great learning instrument!

The water temperature is critical in my humble opinion. 62-68 degrees is optimal. You will begin seeing pathogens starting to thrive in 73+ degrees.

45 days is about 31 days too long to let your reservoir go.

There is two schools of thought generally speaking when it comes to topping off the reservoir.

1. Top off reservoir with ph adjusted water only to maintain proper reservoir depth.

2. track your nutrient usage and add ph adjusted water and nutrients to obtain your desired ppms.

I use method number two.

If there is interest in some calculations for method two, I would gladly explain it.
 
Im a newbee so I dont know! But the temperatures should be under 24C in the reservoir. I do a 14 day cycle now. Adding just PH adjusted water when they drink. With new water change new nutes are added accordingly to the ppm. If they drink a lot of nutes, I add that too on the way. But, as I said, Im a not an expert. Just barley getting the hang of it. Further, the bold notes on the 1 page is a summary of what experts in here say ;)
 
In this picture you can see how the soil roots die as new DWC roots grow.
 
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The canopy and the density of the plants leaves are insanely compact under CFL lights compared to T5. Its like a rainforest 
 
theliveculture said:
You can get identical internode spacing using t5 also.
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Ok. Never had the intensity like now. Its just madness :) 
 
As the old roots are rotting I thought that using some H202 once and then is a good thing. In my mind the H202 is cleaning up the rotting old soil roots and not  attacking the new roots. At least not in the same intensity. Whats your opinion on that ? 
 
 
Ok. Never had the intensity like now. Its just madness :) 
 
As the old roots are rotting I thought that using some H202 once and then is a good thing. In my mind the H202 is cleaning up the rotting old soil roots and not  attacking the new roots. At least not in the same intensity. Whats your opinion on that ? 


The use of h2o2 every few days is not a bad thing.

I really like Dutch Master Zone. I primarily use that in my reservoir. If I'm fighting a pathogen, I generally will use h2o2 for a few days before going back to zone.
 
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