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overwintering Winter-Summer in OZ "Comparison" / Aussie Blabberers

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  • A muppet

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  • A muppet

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  • Total voters
    58
Looking into bleach treatment for seeds and I couldn't find any brands that didnt have sodium hydroxide in it. So next thing was hydrogen peroxide. Have read some interesting stuff so far on germinating and growth/fruit size. Here is a quick read http://www.gardenzine.co.uk/peroxide.html
 
Wildfire Chilli Australia said:
Looking into bleach treatment for seeds and I couldn't find any brands that didnt have sodium hydroxide in it. So next thing was hydrogen peroxide. Have read some interesting stuff so far on germinating and growth/fruit size. Here is a quick read http://www.gardenzine.co.uk/peroxide.html
Click to expand...

I treated 4 Habanero seeds with 3% H2O2 solution for about 30 minutes (longer than I preferred). I diluted it down by adding roughly 1 part distilled water to 1 part 3% H2O2 solution and left them to soak overnight.

The seeds are now in a zip lock bag between paper towel that I moistened using the diluted H2O2 solution. I decided to use the solution in the zip lock bag to counteract mould.

I had success with this method of germination last season.
 
Wildfire Chilli Australia said:
Looking into bleach treatment for seeds and I couldn't find any brands that didnt have sodium hydroxide in it. So next thing was hydrogen peroxide. Have read some interesting stuff so far on germinating and growth/fruit size. Here is a quick read http://www.gardenzine.co.uk/peroxide.html
Click to expand...

I know of some people using a weak Hydrogen Peroxide solution for watering their plants increasing available oxygen to the root system, and aiding in the control of fungal issues.

Link 1

another option could be citric acid as a pre-germ soak
 
I don't know if any of you have read this before but it is quite a detailed look at germination of the different varieties of peppers and details successful and unsuccessful germination techniques in a laboratory type set up

Germination Theory

A little full on but makes some observations about maybe using some different ideas such as fluctuating temps?

I. Evidence of dormancy

Freshly harvested seeds of C. annuum, C. frutescens, C. chacoense, C. chinense, C. baccatum and C. pubescens can show dormancy (12,16). An after-ripening period of about 6 weeks is required at room temperature to remove dormancy (12).
Click to expand...

V. Successful dormancy-breaking treatments

Capsicum spp.

Potassium nitrate (ISTA)

Light, Potassium nitrate (AOSA)

C. annuum

Warm stratification: 20°C, 25°C, 30°C, 35°C, 45d, then 30°/15°C (16h/8h) (16); 15°C, 65d, then 30°/15°C (16h/8h) (16)

GA3: co-applied, 100 ppm, 25°C, any light regime (10); co-applied, 1000 ppm (18)

Removal of seed covering structures: germinate at 15°C (20)

Oxygen: 40, 60%, at 15°C, 25°C (21)

GA4/7: co-applied, 500, 1000 ppm (19)

C. baccatum

Warm stratification: 20°C, 25°C, 45d, then 30°/15°C (16h/8h) (16)

C. chinense

Warm stratification: 20°C, 25°C, 30°C, 35°C, 45d, then 30°/15°C (16h/8h) (16); 15°C, 54d, then 30°/15°C (16h/8h) (16)

C. frutescens

Constant temperatures: 30°C (16)

Warm stratification: 15°C, 65d, then 30°/15°C (16h/8h) (16)

C. pubescens

Constant temperatures: 25°C (16)

Warm stratification: 20°C, 45d, then 30°/15°C (16h/8h) (16); 15°C, 65d, then 30°/15°C (16h/8h) (16)
Click to expand...


VI. Comment

It would appear that no special precautions are necessary for the light environment because although incandescent light is inhibitory the fluorescent light sources likely to be used in germination cabinets do not inhibit Capsicum seed germination - but neither are they reported to promote germination (9). Nevertheless if at all possible the light regime given in Chapter 6 should be provided.

Non-dormant seeds of all Capsicum spp. germinate well when tested over the constant temperature range 15°-30°C (1,3,4,6,7,15,16) and non-dormant seeds of C. baccatum also germinate fully at 10°C and 13°C (6,11). The alternating temperature regimes 15°/30°C, 15°/27°C or 20°/30°C promote the germination of dormant seeds of C. annuum, C. baccatum, C. chinense, C. frutescens and C. pubescens quite substantially (6,16). Dormant seeds of C. annuum var minimum, C. baccatum and C. chinense fail to germinate when tested at constant temperatures of 15° to 30°C for up to 60 days, but germinate promptly when transferred to the alternating temperature regime 30°/15°C (16h/8h) (16). Consequently it is suggested that the AOSA/ISTA prescribed alternating temperature regime of 20°/30°C (16h/8h) is likely to be satisfactory for most gene bank purposes, but that the regime 30°/15°C (16h/8h) provided for more than 14 days may be preferable for the most dormant seeds.
Click to expand...
 
Trippa said:
I know of some people using a weak Hydrogen Peroxide solution for watering their plants increasing available oxygen to the root system, and aiding in the control of fungal issues.

Link 1

another option could be citric acid as a pre-germ soak
Click to expand...
Yeah I have used Oxy Plus (h.p) from Growth Technology a few times in both my plants in soil and in hydro. Sounds like it does a lot of good for them.
 
Hey Candice nice link to mix ratios :cool:

Been using Hydrogen Peroxide occasionally in my outside Hydro Channel to mainly keep any fungie away. Also used it very well soaking some seeds sent in a trade that looked pretty funky.

Mmmmm Trippa i'm gonna need a while to sit down and read that sort of info. Interesting theories though.

Micca
 
I use the seaweed and ferts from these guys as well as the micro organisms additive and think they are great ... also have these type of products speaking of hydrogen peroxide

Smart Garden
 
So I went to the laboratory (ie my kitchen ) last night and soaked another bunch of seeds for planting tonight .. This time I used a mixed solution of Seaweed Extract and Chamomile tea to try to get some of those Stubborn Hot Cherry types to show themselves.

I am also going to pull the existing Hot Cherry's I have in my propagation unit out and place them on a sunny window sill allowing them to cool down at night and heat up during the day to see if this works to break dormancy ??? (As was suggested in the literature)

EDIT: I forgot to add I also Soaked some Bhut Jolokia Assam, 7pot/pod 'Jonah', and White Bullet Hab's (all courtesy of JR)
 
Looky what i got in the mail today! Thanks Dazastar. :D
2011-07-13081413.jpg

The blade looks awesome and it came sharp as a razor, :woohoo:
 
Trippa said:
I don't know if any of you have read this before but it is quite a detailed look at germination of the different varieties of peppers and details successful and unsuccessful germination techniques in a laboratory type set up

Germination Theory

A little full on but makes some observations about maybe using some different ideas such as fluctuating temps?
Click to expand...

No idea how you found that but I think I love you.
 
Trippa said:
I am also going to pull the existing Hot Cherry's I have in my propagation unit out and place them on a sunny window sill allowing them to cool down at night and heat up during the day to see if this works to break dormancy ??? (As was suggested in the literature)
Click to expand...
I'm about to jet off so I will read the lit later.... but what you say is interesting, trips. On quite a few occasions now, I've had seeds sitting in my prop box do nothing for two or three months, then strangely, a couple days after removing them, they decide to pop! Def gotta be something to this dormancy stuff......
 
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