beer ASK WHEEBZ
- Thread starter frydad4
- Start date
Hey Wheebz, the nectar is getting better with every passing minute. True story.
Now tonights effort. A kit a bits, tell me what you think if you will.
Coopers real ale goop can
900 grams dextrose
100 grams light dry malt
100 grams honey
500 grams dark crystal malt (steeped at 65c for 30 min)
15 grams fuggles boiled for 15 minutes
11.5 grams US-05 pitched at 24c ambient temp around 20c
Planning on a dry hop of 30 grams cascade after the head falls.
What say thee o wise one?
Now tonights effort. A kit a bits, tell me what you think if you will.
Coopers real ale goop can
900 grams dextrose
100 grams light dry malt
100 grams honey
500 grams dark crystal malt (steeped at 65c for 30 min)
15 grams fuggles boiled for 15 minutes
11.5 grams US-05 pitched at 24c ambient temp around 20c
Planning on a dry hop of 30 grams cascade after the head falls.
What say thee o wise one?
Sounds like its going to be a nice basic pale ale, which is exactly how I like them, not overdone and stupidly overhopped like the beers we brew at Southern Tier
What I would is toss in the honey in the last 2 minutes of the boil, and you will be able to taste it and smell it along with the cascade, should be pretty nice
do the cascade hop at day 7, then rack the beer out at day 14
What I would is toss in the honey in the last 2 minutes of the boil, and you will be able to taste it and smell it along with the cascade, should be pretty nice
do the cascade hop at day 7, then rack the beer out at day 14
I know a lot about this beer
its basically a generic pale ale recipe, not like sierra nevada pale ale, very light on the hops, and they actually use apricot flavoring, not puree, when they brew this beer, similar to the blueberry wheats and raspberry wheats and stuff like that
What I would do is ferment the beer until day 5 or so, using a regular california ale style yeast, then throw it into a secondary fermenter, add your puree, or even juice, and bottle it accordingly
if you had actual flavoring, which you can get at a homebrew store, you can make the pale ale and when you go to bottle/keg, throw in the flavoring right into your bottling bucket, rack the beer on top of that, and then into your bottles, if you are kegging, add it to the keg, and throw your beer on top of it then carb
As for the exact amount of flavorings per what I am assuming is a 5 gallon batch, i couldnt tell you as I have never used it before, so its kind of up to your tastebuds as far as whether its going to be too much or too little
its basically a generic pale ale recipe, not like sierra nevada pale ale, very light on the hops, and they actually use apricot flavoring, not puree, when they brew this beer, similar to the blueberry wheats and raspberry wheats and stuff like that
What I would do is ferment the beer until day 5 or so, using a regular california ale style yeast, then throw it into a secondary fermenter, add your puree, or even juice, and bottle it accordingly
if you had actual flavoring, which you can get at a homebrew store, you can make the pale ale and when you go to bottle/keg, throw in the flavoring right into your bottling bucket, rack the beer on top of that, and then into your bottles, if you are kegging, add it to the keg, and throw your beer on top of it then carb
As for the exact amount of flavorings per what I am assuming is a 5 gallon batch, i couldnt tell you as I have never used it before, so its kind of up to your tastebuds as far as whether its going to be too much or too little
There it is..... the mark of wisdom. I always have to roll my eyes when people ask me what my favorite color is, too.
Having lived in Germany for 3 years and like Wheebz did traveled about and tried alot of the beers, I have to agree also. There are just too many really good beers to say I have a favorite. There are beers that I could call my go to beers but there are several of them as well.
Todays effort is another partial brew. 23 litres.
.5 kg crystal malt
1 kg choc malt
Steeped at 68 celcius for 60 min
1.7 kg coopers pale ale goop
800 grams Dextrose
300 grams LDME
60 minute boil
20 grams Fuggles 45 min
15 grams Cascade 30 min
Added the dextrose at the start of the boil and the malt at the end.
So did i screw up or what?
Edit: Forgot to mention the yeast, US-05. Had a packet here so will use that.
.5 kg crystal malt
1 kg choc malt
Steeped at 68 celcius for 60 min
1.7 kg coopers pale ale goop
800 grams Dextrose
300 grams LDME
60 minute boil
20 grams Fuggles 45 min
15 grams Cascade 30 min
Added the dextrose at the start of the boil and the malt at the end.
So did i screw up or what?
Edit: Forgot to mention the yeast, US-05. Had a packet here so will use that.
the DME/dextrose should both be added at the same time, works better for hop utilization
and thats a boatload of chocolate malt, should be an awesome porter, only i would have subbed out the cascade for like styrian goldings or kent goldings, but thats personal preference as I am not a fan whatsoever of cascade hops
should have done the fuggle for the full 60 minutes as well
there should always be a 60 minute long hop boil, as that is the minimum amount of time to get the almost full isomerization out of your A.A's.
We do a 90 minute boil, and our bittering hops go in at the start of the 90 minute boil
and thats a boatload of chocolate malt, should be an awesome porter, only i would have subbed out the cascade for like styrian goldings or kent goldings, but thats personal preference as I am not a fan whatsoever of cascade hops
should have done the fuggle for the full 60 minutes as well
there should always be a 60 minute long hop boil, as that is the minimum amount of time to get the almost full isomerization out of your A.A's.
We do a 90 minute boil, and our bittering hops go in at the start of the 90 minute boil
Thanks for the response mate! I will keep in mind your suggestions in regard to the goldings. I didn't want it too bitter so decided on 40 minutes thanks for clearing that up too. I really love being able to ask you questions it makes me learn quicker and probably gives you a laugh. 
Cheers mate.
Cheers mate.
Well the best way to do it is choose a bittering hop that corresponds to the correct alpha acids you want for your bittering IBUs, not changing the addition time
You have to remember, you will not taste nor perceive your boil hops whatsoever, so it doesnt matter what you use, just as long as you are hitting your target IBUs
We use 12+ alpha acid hops for every single one of our beers as bittering hops, even for our 422 wheat beer, all you ever want out of them is utilization
You have to remember, you will not taste nor perceive your boil hops whatsoever, so it doesnt matter what you use, just as long as you are hitting your target IBUs
We use 12+ alpha acid hops for every single one of our beers as bittering hops, even for our 422 wheat beer, all you ever want out of them is utilization
well its a combination of a couple of things
1. The beard, its a red beard, and its pretty amazing
2. I am awesome, as we have all established, in fact, the captain of Team Awesome, and I dub thee, finally, as one of my minions of Team Awesome, feel privileged.
3. I had a new candid camera shot taken of me tonight drunk forklifting out some spent grain, and its a pretty awesome photo
1. The beard, its a red beard, and its pretty amazing
2. I am awesome, as we have all established, in fact, the captain of Team Awesome, and I dub thee, finally, as one of my minions of Team Awesome, feel privileged.
3. I had a new candid camera shot taken of me tonight drunk forklifting out some spent grain, and its a pretty awesome photo
well its a combination of a couple of things
I had a new candid camera shot taken of me tonight drunk forklifting out some spent grain, and its a pretty awesome photo
Ah, the Sternewirth Privilege in practice. Nice!!!!!!!!!
Cheers wheebz!
RM
wheebz, I really hate asking this question as the thought of it just bothers me but a buddy of mine was recently put on some meds and the doctor told him he won't be able to drink any more and this guy loves good beers and wines. Now I'm thinking that as a homebrewer there has to be a way to make a good beer and then remove the alcohol and still have a good brew. I did some looking on the interweb and found a procedure that adds a couple of steps to the normal brewing procedures to take any recipe that you brew and remove the alcohol, well at least most of it. Once the beer is ready to bottle you rack it to your brew kettle and place it in a 180 degree oven for 30 minutes. Cool it as you would after the boil and pitch new yeast to it along with the 3/4 cup of priming sugar. The resulting brew should be less than 1% ABV. Now he also points out that any aroma hopping that was done will go away. My question is couldn't this beer then be dry hopped for a period or some aroma hops go in the water with the priming sugar to back in the aroma hopping that would have been in it and then pitch the new yeast and prime and bottle? Also he talks about pitching a complete new pack of yeast. It seemed to me that you wouldn't want to pitch that much to avoid having a yeasty tasting beer. I thought that something like 1/4 to 1/3 the amount that would be normally pitched would be enough to carbonate the bottles. What do you think aside that I may be F'in crazy for making a Alcohol free beer?