• Blog your pepper progress. The first image in your first post will be used to represent your Glog.

OCD 2016

Ok, I wasn't going to do a glog this year. So many projects going on with the house, but part of that is a new garden plot. So, I guess this is the best way to document progress. I'm running a drip irrigation this year to free up my time for other things. Last year I discovered Aerogardening. I started plants late last year I the Aerogarden. They ended up producing and being just as big as my Feb. starts. Sold on hydro! This year I acquired another AG from a thrift shop for $5. I hacked it with a bigger pump and planning on a led hack as well. Next year I'm running a bigger scale hydro setup with my DIY Cob Led build. Anyways I'm on my 3rd batch of AG starts. I'm growing lots of GoatsWeed, Carolina Cayenne, Thai, Chi-Chien, Sadabahar, Chiltepin, Cayenne Long, Aji Pinapple, Genghis Khan Brain, Jay's Red, Srtsl x Bbg and there might be a couple of ones I forgot. Enough talk, here's some pics. More pics when it stops raining. 43 days from seed Aero Babies.
 

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Devv said:
Been busy I see!
 
Looks great Chuck!
 
You'll love the chipper, be careful with that thang, they want to pull you in 'em when you drop old pepper plants, etc. in them.
Your not kidding. Gives me anxiety every time I fire her up. It has a chute and a cover that slide over the opening. I'm just going to put leaves and wood chips in it. I'll fill up the chute, pull the cover, and let it drop. Here's a pic of original brochure.
 

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Potted up the SIP's. All GoatsWeed, except two. Chi-Chien and a Carolina Cayenne. I've got a total of 65 chile plants and 27 tomato plants. So much for cutting back and not doing a GLOG. I've got herbs this year and will probably plant more. Going to pot up some more. Need to head to town and get more paint.

I've been researching my clayish soil. It'll be great I've I get more organically in it. My biggest problem will be over watering. Don't know if I should make a oversize hole when I transplant, mix with some peat and native soil. I'll have more organic material by next year, due to composting.
 

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stickman said:
You ought to talk to your county extension agent Chuck... (s)he will be most familiar with your local conditions and can make good recommendations for soil conditioning, pest identification and what have you. http://www.extension.colostate.edu/garfieldcounty/
Wow I'm really uneducated. I didn't know such a place exist. It's the next town over. Thanks!

I transplanted my Aero, not so babies. I made the mistake of letting them go an extra week or so. Their roots were bound pretty tight. I did the best I could un raveling. I used some myco and through in the barge under the lights. I've never once had transplant shock going from Aerogarden to soil. I feel bad. I'm sure they'll rebound, but what a shame. Lesson learned. On they other hand it gave my some ideas, for when I go bigger scale.
 

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Yeah, it's kind of a pain to disentangle the roots when they grow together like that but on the other hand it shows how happy the plants are. They were bound to show a little transplant shock when you first re-potted them, but water them well the first few days and they should make the transition OK. Nice work!
 
stickman said:
Yeah, it's kind of a pain to disentangle the roots when they grow together like that but on the other hand it shows how happy the plants are. They were bound to show a little transplant shock when you first re-potted them, but water them well the first few days and they should make the transition OK. Nice work!
My neighbor was sick yesterday. I got what he had this morning. Damn cold! The funny thing is, it's the same damn cold I got rid of 3 weeks ago. I didn't think one could get a cold after you've had one. Or I have allergy's and don't know it.

Im keeping my fingers crossed Rick, thanks.

The plants in question are Sadabahar, Jay's Red, Srtsl x BBG, and Genghis Khan.

The only Super's I've got. I'll stay positive and they will ALL rebound.

Been busy today. I tilled and shoveled a nice little platform for my SIP's and black pot's. My back is done. I've been putting in 10hrs a day in the garden and house, for the past 5 days. I just can't stay idle. It's just not me.

Here's some pics of the results. I'm documenting everything. Last year, I accidentally erased most of my pictures from the past couple glog's.
 

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No word back from the local extension. I'll hold off till the weekend to plant the rows. I see Justin has clay as well. He said he just digs hole and adds potting mix. I'll wait and see how big of a hole he dig's, before I plant. I'm running drip irrigation to my SIP's. I also tested my composter out on a last years contact mix. AMAZING!!! Comes out fluffier then anything I've seen before. Damn! I wish I would have tried that last week, before I planted up. I think I'm going to have some good compost this year.
 

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You got it going on Chuck!
 
 The county extension agent would probably want a soil sample, if they don't respond, just mix your soil with the potting soil and go for it, being as late as it is.
 
It's still worth getting a soil test done even if you've already planted in-ground. It just means you'd add your amendments as a side dressing instead of tilling them in before planting. The test will show you what your soil has in abundance as well as what it lacks, so you save time and money by getting only what it needs, and not what it doesn't.
   That mulch shredder will be a really useful tool. I have one that I use to chop up the leaves and spent vegetable plants (with no pest eggs or diseases) that I rake up in the fall. The smaller you chop them up, the quicker they break down into humus. I also overspray my compost pile with a mixture I got from Jerry Baker... half a cup of cheap beer, half a cup of ammonia and 2 gallons of warm water. That quick shot of water soluble nutrients gives the soil-dwelling microbes the food they need to begin reproducing. After that you just need to keep the pile damp and turn it over once or twice a week to let in adequate Oxygen.
     A funny story from when I was a kid... my Dad had just gotten the Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening and decided to make enough compost for our half-acre potato patch. He borrowed a 5-ton dump truck from a friend of his and made a huge pile of alternating layers of green chicken manure we got from a local chicken farm and bark and sawdust we got from a sawmill. He didn't turn the pile over all winter, and in spring it had gone from about 5 feet high down to less than a foot. When we dug into it, the top 3 inches were damp sawdust and the rest was ash.
 
stickman said:
It's still worth getting a soil test done even if you've already planted in-ground. It just means you'd add your amendments as a side dressing instead of tilling them in before planting. The test will show you what your soil has in abundance as well as what it lacks, so you save time and money by getting only what it needs, and not what it doesn't.
   That mulch shredder will be a really useful tool. I have one that I use to chop up the leaves and spent vegetable plants (with no pest eggs or diseases) that I rake up in the fall. The smaller you chop them up, the quicker they break down into humus. I also overspray my compost pile with a mixture I got from Jerry Baker... half a cup of cheap beer, half a cup of ammonia and 2 gallons of warm water. That quick shot of water soluble nutrients gives the soil-dwelling microbes the food they need to begin reproducing. After that you just need to keep the pile damp and turn it over once or twice a week to let in adequate Oxygen.
     A funny story from when I was a kid... my Dad had just gotten the Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening and decided to make enough compost for our half-acre potato patch. He borrowed a 5-ton dump truck from a friend of his and made a huge pile of alternating layers of green chicken manure we got from a local chicken farm and bark and sawdust we got from a sawmill. He didn't turn the pile over all winter, and in spring it had gone from about 5 feet high down to less than a foot. When we dug into it, the top 3 inches were damp sawdust and the rest was ash.
Thanks Rick, I'll start sourcing a place to get a soil test. I've found a place awhile back in Boulder, Co. It's the state university, I think part of the state extension. I'll dig some dirt before I start planting this weekend. There is still some virgin soil at the bottom of the row's. I'll dig down 8in and save. I know our ground is high in alkaline. You can see it come to the surface. I read places where it is dry is usually alkaline and places where it is wet all the time is Acidic. That's generally speaking, from what I read anyway. I just don't know how high.

I was visiting The Hippy Seed Company's website. I always love there varieties. I think I'm going to order from them again. They have some cool Annnuum's. That's where I got my Tabanaga sees from. If you get time check them out. PM me if there is something that looks interesting. I'm going to put in a order next week. http://thehippyseedcompany.com/chilli-seeds/
 
stickman said:
It's still worth getting a soil test done even if you've already planted in-ground. It just means you'd add your amendments as a side dressing instead of tilling them in before planting. The test will show you what your soil has in abundance as well as what it lacks, so you save time and money by getting only what it needs, and not what it doesn't.
   That mulch shredder will be a really useful tool. I have one that I use to chop up the leaves and spent vegetable plants (with no pest eggs or diseases) that I rake up in the fall. The smaller you chop them up, the quicker they break down into humus. I also overspray my compost pile with a mixture I got from Jerry Baker... half a cup of cheap beer, half a cup of ammonia and 2 gallons of warm water. That quick shot of water soluble nutrients gives the soil-dwelling microbes the food they need to begin reproducing. After that you just need to keep the pile damp and turn it over once or twice a week to let in adequate Oxygen.
     A funny story from when I was a kid... my Dad had just gotten the Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening and decided to make enough compost for our half-acre potato patch. He borrowed a 5-ton dump truck from a friend of his and made a huge pile of alternating layers of green chicken manure we got from a local chicken farm and bark and sawdust we got from a sawmill. He didn't turn the pile over all winter, and in spring it had gone from about 5 feet high down to less than a foot. When we dug into it, the top 3 inches were damp sawdust and the rest was ash.
 I agree, it never hurts to know where you're at. And one of these days I need to do the same. I've held off, mainly because I've been working hard on the base soil to get the correct tilth,and moisture holding properties down. I know my PH is too high, and the well water even higher. Rain, and capturing it has been a huge plus this season in that regard. I really should send in a sample after I turn it over in the fall; I'm hoping it's close ;) And thinking it is because I've supplemented very little this year. The key I have found is to add the goodies in the fall and then plant the cover crop, this way everything is ready in the spring. This is working really well for me here; and I know it's colder where you live. But more time in the soil equals more time to break down and be ready come dirt day.
 
Devv said:
I agree, it never hurts to know where you're at. And one of these days I need to do the same. I've held off, mainly because I've been working hard on the base soil to get the correct tilth,and moisture holding properties down. I know my PH is too high, and the well water even higher. Rain, and capturing it has been a huge plus this season in that regard. I really should send in a sample after I turn it over in the fall; I'm hoping it's close ;) And thinking it is because I've supplemented very little this year. The key I have found is to add the goodies in the fall and then plant the cover crop, this way everything is ready in the spring. This is working really well for me here; and I know it's colder where you live. But more time in the soil equals more time to break down and be ready come dirt day.
I'll take your advice. I plan on getting a nice amount of compost, by Winter. I'd like to start composting manure and leave's this Summer. Then, I'll till it in and let it sit. It will be covered in snow from Nov. - Mar. .
 
OCD Chilehead said:
Thanks Rick, I'll start sourcing a place to get a soil test. I've found a place awhile back in Boulder, Co. It's the state university, I think part of the state extension. I'll dig some dirt before I start planting this weekend. There is still some virgin soil at the bottom of the row's. I'll dig down 8in and save. I know our ground is high in alkaline. You can see it come to the surface. I read places where it is dry is usually alkaline and places where it is wet all the time is Acidic. That's generally speaking, from what I read anyway. I just don't know how high.

I was visiting The Hippy Seed Company's website. I always love there varieties. I think I'm going to order from them again. They have some cool Annnuum's. That's where I got my Tabanaga sees from. If you get time check them out. PM me if there is something that looks interesting. I'm going to put in a order next week. http://thehippyseedcompany.com/chilli-seeds/
 
Thanks for the offer Chuck, but I'm good for seeds for the foreseeable future. Glad to hear you're going to get a soil sample sent in for testing at your convenience. It probably is the University extension service lab that'll handle it... The Stockbridge school of agriculture at UMass Amherst has the lab that does soil testing for our state. The high pH in your soil probably means it's high in Calcium. It could also be  Boron, but unlikely in your location. That's good news as far as dealing with Blossom End Rot, but you still need to make sure your plants get adequate water of low enough pH to dissolve it. That's why Scott collects rainwater for his garden... it's naturally mildly acidic. The other way you can acidify the soil is by adding compost. It's rich in Tannic and Humic acids. If you need an extra acid boost, the organic way is to add Leonardite Shale. http://drearth.net/learning-center/the-technology/humic-acid/
 
stickman said:
Thanks for the offer Chuck, but I'm good for seeds for the foreseeable future. Glad to hear you're going to get a soil sample sent in for testing at your convenience. It probably is the University extension service lab that'll handle it... The Stockbridge school of agriculture at UMass Amherst has the lab that does soil testing for our state. The high pH in your soil probably means it's high in Calcium. It could also be  Boron, but unlikely in your location. That's good news as far as dealing with Blossom End Rot, but you still need to make sure your plants get adequate water of low enough pH to dissolve it. That's why Scott collects rainwater for his garden... it's naturally mildly acidic. The other way you can acidify the soil is by adding compost. It's rich in Tannic and Humic acids. If you need an extra acid boost, the organic way is to add Leonardite Shale. http://drearth.net/learning-center/the-technology/humic-acid/
Thanks for the Humic Acid read. I'm it may be high in calcium. A couple seasons ago, I gave a nieghbor a couple Bhut plants. I went by to visit around August and his plants looked better than mine. I asked him what he fed them with and he said, nothing. He tilled in some composted manure I the Spring. No leaf distortion and the plants looked great.


moruga welder said:
Looking great my friend !

Thanks! Not anywhere close to your grow yet. It's a lot of work, that should get better year after year.
 
I finally got some stuff done. Got a bunch of tomatoes in the ground and a couple rows of chile's. Still have about 20 chile plants to go. I think I have 15 containers with soil. I'll pot the rest up and hook drip irrigation to them.

My Chinese plants are coming out of shock.

Can't take all the credit today. I had help. It's so nice when the get big enough to dig and shovel soil. LOL
He's my pride and joy. We have a awesome time together.
 

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It's really great your son enjoys working in the garden with you. Not only is it good one on one time but he learns a very useful skill. ;)
 
And Rick's correct about BER hit it right on the head, kinda funny how calcium rich soil raises the PH and then in turn retards calcium uptake. Leading to BER. My trick is to add the calcium using calmag via a foilar application. It simply won't work added to a watering program, at least here, believe me I tried. 1 tsp per 1 gallon applied with a standard watering can, 2 times a week if weather permits while fruit are emerging and small, done early in the morning, or later in the day when very overcast. In fact any foilar application should follow those rules. I get 50% BER loss with tomatoes if I do nothing. So far zero with early girl, and a low percentage with San Marzano's, Roma's just won't do it here. But the trick really helps peppers as well, I just get nicer larger pods.
 
Garden looks great Chuck!
 
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