beer ASK WHEEBZ

nah
 
Wyndridge Farms in Dallastown PA
 
Making cider beer soda and wine
 
and creme brulee is just a regular imperial stout with 2 kinds of artificial flavorings added to it
 
My wife came up with an idea for a party to celebrate William Shakespeare's Birthday we're calling "Ballads, Bards and Maiden's Fair". I've started a quick Mead recipe I found but I need to make an ale in the style that would have been done in the Tudor times in England. I did some cruised the net a bit and found that during the Tudor times in England there was a big difference in Beer and Ale. The difference being that Beers had hops or some other bittering (Ale Cost or Rue) in them while Ales were sweet and unhopped. I found a recipe for a Tudor Ale to use as a starting point:
 
5 Gallon Batch Size (scaled for 70% efficiency)
O.G: 1.046
F.G: 1.012
BUs: 15
 
MASH INGREDIENTS
7.25 lbs. Crisp Maltings Floor Malted Organic Pale Malt
1.2 lbs Simpson’s Crystal Medium
0.5 oz Simpson’s Black
 
MASH SCHEDULE: SINGLE INFUSION
Sacch’ Rest: 154° F for 45 minutes
Mashout: 172° F for 5 minutes
 
BOIL ADDITIONS & TIMES
60-minute boil
0.5 oz East Kent Goldings (55 min)
2.5 oz Honey (50 min)
0.1 oz Fresh Sage, chopped (5 min)
 
YEAST
Wyeast 1028 London Ale
Fermentation Temp: 68° F
 
FERMENTATION SCHEDULE:
One week primary fermentation
“Dry-hop” with 0.5 oz dried sage for one week.
Into the Keg to condition for 2 weeks
 
I found this on the Northern Brewer website from a thing Summit Brewing did. In the Tudor period this would have been done over a wood fire and so would have taken on some of the smoke from that. So here are my questions:
1. I can't find the Crisp Maltings Floor Malted Organic Pale Malt here locally but I can find Crisp Pale 2 Row and Crisp Maris Otter which it says has been used for English style brews for a long time. Which do you think would be better?
 
2. For the Crystal I can get M&F Crystal Lv 60-75 will it serve for the Simpson's Crystal Medium and then Crisp Black Patent for the Simpson's Black?
 
3. To add that smoked flavor to it I'm thinking about using maybe 2 oz Peated Malt which is British. Do you think that will be enough / too much and do I need to adjust the other grains any to add it to the grain bill?
 
4. This will be my first AG brew and the Mash Schedule calls for a Single Infusion, Sacch' Rest at 154 dF for 45 Minutes. Am I thinking correct that I'll Mash in at 154 dF and let it sit for 45 minutes maintaining that temp? Also, how many gallons should I Mash in with and then how many gallons for the Sparg? Don't have time to rebrew so I don't want to F' this one up :)
 
5. Can't get Wyeast locally but I can get White Labs so I'll probably switch to WLP013 London Ale Yeast.
BTW, I never got your new address and I have a couple sauces with your name on them...
 
Thanks
 
1. Marris Otter - gods gift to grain
2. yes, and yes, but that is a boatload of crystal, not sure if you really want 14% of your bill being caramel malt
3. thats enough for a light smoke
4. Mash in at 154, let it sit for an hour and 15 minutes, not 45 minutes. Marris otter takes longer to convert, and an hour and 15 you will guarantee conversion. You would mash in at a rate of 3.5:1. Meaning 1 gallon of water for ever 3.5lbs of grain. Sparge until you are kettle full. Slow down your sparge to the point where it takes you a half an hour to sparge until you are kettle full. No need to rush it. 
5. I use white labs for almost everything. 013 or WLP005 would be well suited for this style. 
 
New brewery address
 
Brewery at Wyndridge Farms
885 S Pleasant Ave
Dallastown, PA 17313
 
straight up sucrose, table sugar
 
breaks into glucose and fructose, monosaccharides that are super easy to ferment
 
So, if I change the grain bill to:
 
8 lbs. Marris Ortter
12 oz Crystal Medium
0.5 oz Black Patent
2 oz Peated Malt
 
that takes the Crystal down to 8%. I'm also thinking about increasing the Peated Malt to 2.5 or 3 oz to get a little more smoke in there. If the original brews were done over open fires I'd think there would be a lot of smoke in the brews. I don't want to cover up the notes coming off of the other ingredients though.
 
Thanks
 
definitely better
 
and watch out with the peated
 
I used 12 ounces in a 30 gallon batch and it was pretty damn apparent
 
Ingredients ordered and on their way. I'll be changing the name of the Mead thread I started to include the Tudor Ale. I'm really excited about making this one. We've talked about ancient brews before and getting to brew with Sage, seen several sage brews out but not tried them, win!
 
wheebz, what's the best way to convert DME to Grain and what Base Malt would I use for Light DME? I've got a brew that uses 4.5 lbs. or Light DME and I want to convert it so I can make it AG.
 
Best way is to use BeerSmith for direct conversions
 
your standard American 2 row would be what you would use for your base malt for light DME
 
I started to ask this in my thread after you mentioned it but thought it might be a great question to out in here for all to benefit from.

My question is after cold crashing your brew at 32 for say 3 to 7 days, is there still going to be enough viable yeast left to bottle condition the beer or is this something that's done only for kegs where it can be force carbonated? Also for the benefit of new Brewers can you explain what is happening when you cold crash it?

Thanks
 
there is more than enough for bottle conditioning it should take you 3 weeks at room temp
 
crashing your beer down allows your beer to clear, and allows tannins and polyphenols to drop out of suspension, reducing the harsh bitterness and helping clarity
 
another option is to add Biofine or Kesselguir (or however that stuff is spelled) to your beer when transferring to secondary
 
that way you dont have to crash the beer and change the temp
 
What follows references the Brooklyn Brewery Kit beer ... which are reduced complexity, all-grain, brew (I think) ... setup on a two-week cycle, two weeks in the fermenter, two weeks "bottle conditioning" ...
 
My question is ... in this case, is anything happening during the two weeks of "bottle conditioning" BESIDES getting carbonated by the processing of the additional sugar? ...
 
I have a CO2 tank (and a regulator) and I use it w/ one of those carbonator cap thingy's (the metal one's work pretty well, the plastic not so much) to charge 2 liter PET bottles w/ soda if I don't feel like driving to the store or brewing tea etc ...
 
At the two week point, can I take the gallon of beer and bottle 5 or so of them, and pop the other half of the gallon in a 2 liter and "charge" it up and go to town, or is there more going on during that 2nd two-week's than just getting fizzy? ...
 
I mean, I'm sure the fact that some things improve further beyond the 1st two weeks in bottle conditioning means there's more going on in a more deeply technical sense - but in the case of a person who'd like to know after two weeks how their 1st brew tastes, can you get an idea just charging it up in a 2 liter? ...
 
And if so, what's the pressure for the CO2 for charging beer? ... I think I use like 34-38 for soda, depending ...
 
Thanks for taking the time =)
 
Couple other things are happening. Flavors are getting molded together, and, in the general sense, haze forming things are dropped out of suspension.
 
I am not a fan whatsoever of putting beer in plastic anything. BUT, you should know after primary fermentation what your beer tastes like, even with it not being carbed up. If you are still impatient, go ahead and toss it in the 2 liter and get it to 2.4 to 2.5 dissolved volumes of CO2. As far as the pressure for beer, its not just about pressure, its also about temperature, and about time, volume, density of the solution, head space of the container, and a couple other things. They are all variables of each other. 
 
Basically, at 34 degrees, and 10 psi, your beer should be at 2.52 volumes of CO2. That is assuming all of your CO2 is binded in solution. 
 
Your soda is mostly around 2.9 to 3.1 dissolved, at least thats what I carb ours up to here at my place before we bottle. 
 
If you want to do the soda bottle, charge it to like 30 psi and maintain 30psi overnight and you should be fine for the next evening, give or take .2 or .3 dependant on all those other factors
 
Can't think of a better solution to losing a week, than recouping 13 days for half of it ;)
 
I won't ultimately cut corners, but I'm happy to on the 1st batch ...
 
I wasted last night's late-night couch time, accidentally, Google'ing "nano brew" and thinking it would be a smaller batch-size than "small batch" ... but it was interesting to see what people are building, the tech is very similar to the industrial controls we use in our fab shop for the CNC's etc ... I threw BrewPi on one of my extra Pi's and poked around in the source code just to see how things work by reading the source code to the software ...
 
I'm pretty amped at this point, and the way my life works (for instance, I'll work overnight tonight), Friday afternoon will be here in no time! ...
 
Thanks!
 
Toss all things patience related out the window with the first batch... but patience and beer is defintely your friend, and you will be rewarded in the end.
 
Now you guys got me wanting to make soda which I have never done.
 
HigherThisHeat said:
Toss all things patience related out the window with the first batch... but patience and beer is defintely your friend, and you will be rewarded in the end.
 
Now you guys got me wanting to make soda which I have never done.
Click to expand...
 
Yeah, most thing in life work out better w/ some patience ...
 
I have to build some momentum too, though, or I risk a complete failure to launch ... I'll spot another shiny and take off after something else ...
 
And then the most insidious risk - the "too much, too soon" - trying to figure it all out the hard way in my head, before I've even tried to just do it once the easy way ... I'm good for that one ...
 
So, mostly the next step is to just do it Friday, and not to over think it before I've gone through it once ...
 
I am, however, kind of excited about doing it ... something I've thought about doing for a number of years now ...
 
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