beer ASK WHEEBZ

just drugstore iodine
 
and if you mash ffor at least an hour, you will get your conversion
 
as far as mash pH, and all the other stuff that can be added, if you are using bottled water, you definitely want to add some minerals back in
 
Good to know. I have to run out to pick up a paint bucket, but I also need a spray bottle for sanitizer too, I guess ...

I watched like 3x start-to-finish all-grain YT videos earlier, so I filled in some gaps in my understanding, certainly ... being careful right as the boil breaks and backing off the heat until the proteins get reabsorbed ... they didn't get into that in the BB instructions, or mention that the boil increases w/ the hops temporarily, to add them gently ...

BIAB looks like a good match for early days brewing - what styles of beer lend themselves to single-sparge, and which should be avoided for not getting to sparge, let alone recirculate through the bed? ...
 
yea you dont want the proteins to reabsorb into the solution, you want them "broken" apart and settled at the bottom of the kettle when you are done, hence the name "hot break"
 
boil vigorously my friend, always boil vigorously, and I literally toss in all of my bittering hops at once, no need to add them slowly, just get them puppies in there
 
and no one style should be sparged any diffferently than any other style, the entire point every time of sparging is to get as much sugar out of your grains as possible, regardless of the beer style
 
What's the 80/20 scenario for water for homebrewing? My options are Zephyrhills drinking water, tap water that's been circulating to remove chlorine (happen to have an unused airstone + pump about), or I could use a pair of Fiji water bottles, which I think might have significantly more minerals than the Zephyrhills drinking water ...
 
Drinking water Drinking water is just that: water that is intended for drinking. It is safe for human consumption and comes from a municipal source. There are no added ingredients besides what is considered usual and safe for any tap water, such as fluoride. (Incidentally, my tap water in New Jersey didnt even contain fluoride a necessary mineral for a childs growing teeth and gums. We had to give our kids fluoride supplements.)

Distilled water Distilled water is a type of purified water. Its water that has gone through a rigorous filtration process to strip it not only of contaminants, but any natural minerals as well. This water is best for use in small appliances like hot water urns, or steam irons, because if you use it, you wont have that mineral buildup that you often get when you use tap water. Though it may seem counterintuitive, this water is not necessarily the best for human consumption, since all of the waters natural, and often beneficial, minerals are absent.

Purified water Purified water is water that comes from any source, but has been purified to remove any chemicals or contaminants. Types of purification include distillation, deionization, reverse osmosis, and carbon filtration. Like distilled water, it has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantages being that potentially harmful chemicals may be taken out and the disadvantage being that beneficial minerals may be taken out as well.

Spring water This is what you often find in bottled water. Its from an underground source and may or may not have been treated and purified. Though spring water sounds more appealing (like many others, I imagine my spring water coming from a rushing fresh spring at the base of a tall snow-capped mountain), its not necessarily the best water for drinking if you have other options. Studies done by the NRDC (Natural Resources Defense Council) have found contaminants in bottled water such as coliform, arsenic and phthalates. Much of bottled water is labeled as spring water, when in fact it is coming from a municipal source and is nothing more than glorified tap water. This topic has been a popular one in recent years, sparking much controversy.
 
Are you building your whole profile on top of RO water, then? ...

For today, since I just need to "do it" for the sake of getting started ... I'm going w/ Fiji in the mash, and pre-boiled tap water (down at 170F) for the sparge water ...

I might as well go through the process, and not postpone it to solve all of my water woes (also need to figure this out more for gardening, again) ...

Thanks for the info ...
 
Ok, I have the Mead and the Tudor Sage Ale in a cold crash at 44.6 dF, the controller is set for 42 however since imthe fermenter is a fridge and not a freezer it might not be able to get down that low. The Mead is showing some clearing, YEA! Now a couple of questions:

Since I can't get it down into the 32 to 42 dF range you suggested, should I let it crash forn5 to 6 days instead of 3 to 4?

If the Mead doesn't clear up as much as I want it to, can I run it through like a Pur Pitcher filter to get it clearer or will the Activated Charcoal filter muck it up?

As always thanks bro!
 
grant if you arent declorinating your water, you deffinitely do not want to use it for mash OR sparge water


Yeah, we postponed brewing, but I did get to run through mixing up sanitizer and working the siphon ... and today, time permitting, I'll either get spring water and/or figure out the heights of certain volumes in my SS pots ...

I think I might check out the new beer garden by Darwin's, Mandeville, too ...

I need a metal ruler that I can etch and sanitize, perhaps?
 
ASK WHEEBZ TIME!
 
The kit recipe wants 2.4L in the mash water, and 4.75L for sparge water ...
 
It's going to be a lot easier for me, tonight, if my sparge water is under just under 4L, say 3.75L, and so I'd like to add it to the mash water, and call it a day? ...
 
The option is to have 3.75L of 170F sparge water, and then just add 1L water for the boil, so as to still mash w/ the suggested amount of water ...
 
Thanks in advance, planning to do this in a bit ...
 
UPDATE: We just moved the water over from sparge quantity to the mash water ... 4L used for mash, plan is to use 3.5L for sparging, but there's 30 min to adjust that if anyone objects ...
 
ASK WHEEBZ -
 
1st gallon got cold overnight, was 57F this morning, no bubbles ...
 
Let it come up gently, or try to get it up faster, or  ? ...
 
That's where we're at ... I removed the frozen two-liter, and turned the upper lid side-ways so that it's still covered and in the dark, but exchanging air w/ the house ... it's sweating a bit, so I now it's coming up ...
 
Thanks!
 
ASK WHEEBZ!
 
Grapefruit Honey Ale - sudden urge to squeeze in a brew night!
 
What's with sending out a kit expecting people to have dried grapefruit peel around their house? WTF? ...
 
I actually do have a half a fresh grapefruit peel though, oddly enough, but it's not dry ...
 
If I throw it in the oven at 170F for the whole 3 hrs of the mash and the boil, can that be considered "dry enough" to toss in w/ the aroma hops at the 5 min mark? ...
 
I could skip it entirely, otherwise, and then I'd probably have a Honey Ale, I guess ... LOL ...
 
TIA ;)
 
Glad I asked!

I just happen to have the other half from last night's dessert ...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1427842135.295954.jpg


Just a little Searzall'd sugar and chambord ;)

Cool. About to start ...

Very different grain bill (by appearance) - curious to smell it!

Shall I use a little biofine or irish moss?
 
irish moss in the boil, last 15 minutes, once done boiling, stir it to create a whirlpool and wait 5 minutes (since its only a gallon) then start cooling it down
 
biofine is used once you either keg or bottle
 
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