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Or here is another option.

Let it warm to room temp, or higher, and hit it with 2 scoops of unpasteurized plain Greek yogurt and a vial of brettanomyces bruxelensis, and let it sit for 5 or 6 weeks

If it's a true summer solstice clone and you already have some sort of LAB in there that went through an aerobic propagation, the brett should clean up the nasty feat flavors and smells, and the other LAB will bring it down to a proper pH for a sour golden ale very quickly for the brett to accomplish that.

Take a quick pH reading of it and tell me what it is before you dump it. If you can get a titrateable acid reading instead of a pH reading that would be better, I just don't know your equipment
 
ASK WHEEBZ -
 
There's a straw or corn-like quality to the saison I brewed a long time ago w/ your help with the recipe ...
 
It's not an off-flavor corn, it's a nice crisp and refreshing corn, more like a roasted corn tortilla and less like canned corn ...
 
My question is if this quality more likely to coming from the malt or the yeast (WLP566)? ...
 
And if you don't have the same experience of straw/corn-tortilla of Saison Dupont, than substitute whatever 'taste' you label Saison Dupont as having, because that the flavor I'm asking about - in terms of malt and yeast ...

Thanks.
 
ASK WHEEBZ -
 
Later on, I'm going to push a nice tall glass of that Bhut Subduction at Pitch Lake batch into a soda canister and charge it up w/ CO2 ...
 
I want to see what degree of 'bite' the CO2 will add, and then there's four options that I can figure to try to get it fermented beyond where it landed - all based on getting after the maltotriose and melibiose and raffinose:
 
1) Ease the beer back down to 67F (from 71.5F) and pitch a vial of room-temp WLP099 to go after the long chains ...
2) Pitch Brett to do the same ...
3) Add BREWCRAFT AMG-300L Beta-Amylase to cleave 'em so the US-05 > Champage can have a crack at some more sugars ...
 
Or, and this is probably the best option, I can crash-&-carb and leave it alone since it's turned into what I feel like I designed ...
 
In fact, I can also stick the keg in the hops and meat freezer on some bags of ice and go for ice treatment, and then just transfer the liquid out the keg and into a 3 gallon ... crashing and re-racking and eis'ing it, right? ...
 
It's less cloying than the barleywine beer, and honestly, nicely balanced against the pepper ...
 
If the goal wasn't to also be able to send some to JayT, it would be easy ... I'd keg it and have it, as is ...
 
So, since I really don't want to do the enzymes or brett versions above - for fear of runaway reaction, which is likely to occur (and which would ruin the beer, certainly) - it's really come down to just eis-ing, lager yeast, or "do nothing" ...
 
Do I really have to worry about bottle bombs on a beer that's virtually proven to have no more fermentables ... I mean, it's seen 71.5F and isn't moving ...
 
I never thought this beer didn't ferment - it fermented consistently and well from Tuesday through Friday initially ...
 
My main question to you - how do I clear this one, it's a cloudy mess ... there's a TON of protein and yeast in solution ... I guess from the oats and rye and 50+ grams of yeast, LOL ...
 
I haven't yet use gelatin, biofine, or polychlar vt ... but they're here. I've only cold crashed.
 
Or ...
 
If I send you some bottles of the still beer, can you dose it and then have it w/ JayT after some weeks? With as much yeast as there is in solution, I wouldn't have to worry too much about a little O2 in the bottle, right? ...
 
Whatcha think about all of this? ...
 
I think you are making 3 gallons of beer stupidly complicated and difficult. It's a fucked up batch of 3 gallons of beer. 3 gallons.....

Dump it and move on


If you really want to try to save it, transfer it into a keg with 20ml of biofine, yes that is super high dosing rates but your beer is kind of fucked so whatever, and carb it up and let it sit for 2 weeks to clear. Once it's cleared, bottle it with the beer gun and ship it.
 
wheebz said:
I think you are making 3 gallons of beer stupidly complicated and difficult. It's a f**ked up batch of 3 gallons of beer. 3 gallons.....

Dump it and move on


If you really want to try to save it, transfer it into a keg with 20ml of biofine, yes that is super high dosing rates but your beer is kind of f**ked so whatever, and carb it up and let it sit for 2 weeks to clear. Once it's cleared, bottle it with the beer gun and ship it.
 
Every batch of beer is 3 gallons on my end, that - or less, and I don't plan to make more than 3 gallons of any version of a beer ... even when I increase the batches of wort to 10-12 gallons ...
 
I'd dump the barleywine batch if I needed room, before dumping this one, or probably even the summer wheat too ... only the Darkness Everybody and your saison are better.
 
 
I made bottle bombs both time I bottled (using the carb tabs, though, not a bucket w/ priming solution) ...
 
So yeah, I have reservations about bottling a 1.040 beer and sending it off to someone w/ a job and wife and kids, heading out of 85-90F full-sun Florida days ...
 
In this regard, I must not have understood your intention when you said "JayT lives 15 minutes from me, send it to me" ...
 
And then, at once, posting glasses of it to the forum as I make my way through 3.5 gallons and not getting any to JayT, seems like a dick move too - "this beer you've wanted to try tastes great!" ...
 
 
 
You aren't the person who I'm trying to get it to and I'm sure you can live another day without trying this beer ...
 
 
 
When I get it done, though - because I am going to close on it (if I don't ruin it, trying) - I'll send you some =)
 
:cheers:
 
i just wanted to rub it in his face that I had a bottle and he didnt, even though it was his beer
 
You should definitely send it to him though, it was his idea
 
I get it, now ... I thought you were concerned and wanted to check 'em out first ...
 
I would freely admit if it was nasty ...
 
I mean, the barleywine turned into a sweet piece of shit beer here of late ... and the open-ferment saison that I fermwrapped by my desk (87-92F) was loaded with esters and phenols and got dumped weeks ago ...
 
This batch tastes good and it's like 8.5-9% or so ...
 
The ghost pepper left behind from the syrup fermenting out, along with the taste from all the rye/oats/roasted grains, actually seems balanced w/ the lactose & residual sweetness ...
 
I drank the room-temp glasses of it behind the past two gravity checks because it tastes pretty good even loaded with yeast, not because I wish/want it to be good.
 
I found some Bamforth material that suggests I could filter it down to mere microns to clear the yeast and flocc'ing signaling substances, and then I guess some Lallemand CBC-1 would be a good choice to follow up ferment with to try to finish it out lower ...
 
See, I'm not going to do that, though. *That's* too much work! This batch has led me to all sorts of stuff to learn.
PS - the point of mentioning the Bamforth thing, was because I found from him that temp is the key w/ the crashing ... an hour a degree lower is worth more than a day a point higher ...
 
When I feel the need for clear - I have only your saison =)

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So how do I figure out yeast population in these pint jars? This is washed yeast from wlp007.

I'm planning on doing another batch of the IPA this came out of. Going to do a 2L starter when I make it.
I saw some estimations that it's roughly 30billion cells per oz of slurry. Would that be after decanting most of the liquid in the jar?
 
Those are pretty!  I haven't washed any yet.  I just pour straight slurry it in into 2 - 1qt jars and refrigerate.  I have been using Mr. Malty which comes up with 79 ml/2.7oz.   I try to suck up the white yeast from the top with a baster or injector.  Then 4 cups water to 1/2 cup DME for starter. 
 
I will be interested in what Wheebz says.  What confuses me is how much trub or dead cells come into play.  What type of yeast is it?  Top, bottom flocculating? 
 
I know the WY3068 and the WY1332 both blew foam when first pictched from smack pack with 1.5 head space.  Since saving yeast I have not had foam blow and bubbling only lasts a couple days and seems to finish quicker.
 
Technically, if you want to prove the counts, you can get a USB 'scope and a hemocytometer plate ...
 
I'm VERY MUCH looking forward to when that's the reasonable next step for me, and ... in a sense, it already is ...
 
I got 99 problems and pitching rate/attenuation are all of them ...
 
Rairdog said:
Those are pretty!  I haven't washed any yet.  I just pour straight slurry it in into 2 - 1qt jars and refrigerate.  I have been using Mr. Malty which comes up with 79 ml/2.7oz.   I try to suck up the white yeast from the top with a baster or injector.  Then 4 cups water to 1/2 cup DME for starter. 
 
I will be interested in what Wheebz says.  What confuses me is how much trub or dead cells come into play.  What type of yeast is it?  Top, bottom flocculating? 
 
I know the WY3068 and the WY1332 both blew foam when first pictched from smack pack with 1.5 head space.  Since saving yeast I have not had foam blow and bubbling only lasts a couple days and seems to finish quicker.
I would say top flocc. It shot krausen out of the blowoff for a couple of days. It was the most active yeast I've used yet.
 
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