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tctenten said:
I have not dry hopped yet.  Just dump the hops in?  Any mixing, swirling?  How long before bottling and do I need to rack to a secondary ferment?
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you should be fine to drop them straight in now, they will sink to the bottom. 5 days is pretty typical for a average abv to dry hop. Almost impossible to get an infection from the hops, just be quick tipping them in. If the are flowers not pellets you will need to put them in a hop bag or cheese cloth with a sanitised weight like a marble to to take them down. Any chance you can find space in a fridge to cold crash it?
Wait another 5 days before bottling, no secondary needed if you can cold crash, cold crash for two days and tbh if you can,t just siphon from the top into a bottling bucket. Check the gravity before crashing but sounds like it will be done pretty quickly from the vigorous fermentation
 
Yes I have them in 2  mini bubblers that I can fit in my spare fridge.  Can you give me a timeline?  Dry hop on day 5, assuming fermentation has stopped.  Then stick in fridge for 2 days and then bottle?  
 
i don't know about all of this dry hopping of bottled beer tbh ...

without the ability to manage O2 with pressure-friendly secondary, you are inviting off flavor hell, i think ...

you might check w/ wheebz to be sure, but i think you are inviting more trouble than it's worth perhaps ...

going to have O2 going into secondary when you add them, and can't flush the headspace of the LBMB ...

then, later, when you go to bottling bucket ... i'm thinking things go BOOM ...

and then there's more O2 yet in the headspace of the bottle ...

i think kegging might be a better platform for dry hopping tbh ...

breweries use hop canons/injectors to get them in after gas-flushing or first submerging them in cold water ...

food for thought, anyways ... i'm not too sure of myself, really, but light and O2 are liking playing with matches, and dry-hopping would be like pouring gasoline up to your ankles while you are playing ...

#ASKWHEEBZ
 
grantmichaels said:
i don't know about all of this dry hopping of bottled beer tbh ...without the ability to manage O2 with pressure-friendly secondary, you are inviting off flavor hell, i think ...you might check w/ wheebz to be sure, but i think you are inviting more trouble than it's worth perhaps ...going to have O2 going into secondary when you add them, and can't flush the headspace of the LBMB ...then, later, when you go to bottling bucket ... i'm thinking things go BOOM ...and then there's more O2 yet in the headspace of the bottle ...i think kegging might be a better platform for dry hopping tbh ...breweries use hop canons/injectors to get them in after gas-flushing or first submerging them in cold water ...food for thought, anyways ... i'm not too sure of myself, really, but light and O2 are liking playing with matches, and dry-hopping would be like pouring gasoline up to your ankles while you are playing ...#ASKWHEEBZ
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I just re-read Bumpers instructions. He said " I should be fine to drop them in NOW". I missed that earlier and have not done anything. If I do it now, wouldn't the amount of Fermentation negate the bad stuff you mentioned?

Never mind...just read no dry hopping till after fermentation.
 
tctenten said:
Never mind...just read no dry hopping till after fermentation.
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Well ...
 
If Bumper has empiric evidence that you can bottle dry-hopped beer without it going south, do it ...
 
But, based only on theory ... it's suspicious ...
 
I'm just tossing it out there, but I don't have experience w/ bottling ... and I've only dry-hopped a single beer so far, but theoretically it's suspect ...
 
It is still all experimental at this point. Since I split the batch into 2 1 gallon fermenters, I may dry hop one and not the other.

So my plan is to check it maybe Friday and if the bubbling has stopped I will take gravity reading. If It hits the target, or gets close I am going to remove the blow off tubes and cap the fermenters. Will stick them in the fridge to cold crash for a few days and then bottle.

If any of this sounds completely wrong or crazy let me know.
 
tctenten said:
It is still all experimental at this point. Since I split the batch into 2 1 gallon fermenters, I may dry hop one and not the other.

So my plan is to check it maybe Friday and if the bubbling has stopped I will take gravity reading. If It hits the target, or gets close I am going to remove the blow off tubes and cap the fermenters. Will stick them in the fridge to cold crash for a few days and then bottle.

If any of this sounds completely wrong or crazy let me know.
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crash after dry-hopping, right? ...
Ozzy2001 said:
I dry hopped my Imp DIPA.  Let it ferment for a week.  Racked to a secondary, then added the hops pellets for 2 weeks.  Bottled.
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Big difference in shape ... you had the hops and liquid up into the neck probably, right? ...
 
He's got a wide-cylinder shape, which I think, is literally wider than it is tall ... could be an illusion, but I feel like I recall them being squat ...
 
I was just reading an account of a skilled homebrewer who ruined a batch of a Pliny the Younger clone for dry-hopping in a bucket and letting it sit ...
 
You have to ask Wheebz, but I think there's a compounding factor from either hot or cold (crashing) too, on this one ...
 
Maybe it's ok if you plan to consume it right away, but it's not ok if you plan to hold onto bottles, I'm guessing ...

Hop oil degradation from O2 ingress is what the top hoppy beers have conquered, from what I read, watched, and listened to ...

Filtering out the yeast by fining or crashing early would remove you yeast in suspension, which you want present if you are going to have oxygen in you racking and bottling op's ...

The hop oils will stick to their shell, so they take some oil when they drop out, and that has to be compensated for ...

I just looked at a BYO or Zymurgy article that was talking about hop cannons and hop torpedoes and rates of like 1 fucking ppm Oxygen in the brite-tanks ...

So, I'm not saying you can't dry hop beer that's going to be bottled, I'm just saying that it might be worth considering whirlpool hopping vs dry-hopping if you can't help the O2 ...

There are people, Matt B. from FW in particular (literally a hop scientist from Goose Island from Seibel from college biochemist), who dry-hop on the day before terminal in primary, and with quantity to compensate for oils lost to yeast shells and scrubbing, and work like all hell to virtually eliminate O2 oxidation.

I actually read a shit-ton about this a few weeks ago when Wheebz shit on any of us letting our beers get light-struck!
 
I'm sure all of that stuff makes a huge difference, especially for large scale brewing, also knowing the bottles could sit on shelves for a few months. I'm happy with how it has turned out for me. These bottles won't last long enough for me to worry about it for now.
I especially wouldn't worry about it with a 2 gallon batch.
 
Well ... the thing is, I tasted my beer out of the keg to wrap up the dry-hopping, and I tasted it after I had to pour it through the air because of the ice, and it was not the same, and it's been decreasing incrementally/constantly since ...

I'm sticking to my guns that fining or crashing out the yeast is to remove the very buffer to oxidation that you'd want to keep if your bottling operation is oxygen-prone. It would be absolutely insane to use leaf hops, too, because the density of the pellet is an ally in not dragging a bunch of oxygen into your still beer ...

I know that I intend to keep oxygen out ... that's why I'm about to spend however long it takes to master counter-pressure keg-to-keg liquid transfers, because I swear I've tasted it firsthand.

In fact ... I'm going to go a step further ... I'm going to brew my next batch skipping the racking off the yeast, trapping the CO2 from ferm with a spunding valve, dry hopping on day three of primary, and then crashing it in place, and serving it fresh using a Clear Beer to serve off the top, and drinking it fresh without moving it, or even racking it, or anything. I'm going to drink it with the cake, crashed yeast, and hops in the corny.

In fact, I'm going to figure this out for sure, and it's going to be how I do any three gallon IPA batches using the small system. I intend to never move the keg after placing it, until I move it from ferm freezer to keezer, dosing it dry hop pellets and plugging it back in and flushing the headspace and drinking it through the Clear Beer on the dry hops and the cake.

I'm betting on preventing the O2 being worth more than the cost/risk of yeast autolysis on the timeline I plan to have the beer in service ...

#fresh #doubledown #wheebzpuntedontheoxidation
 
Ok.....I am back to dry hopping both gallons.  Wheebz gave it the go ahead and I would like to finish Bumpers beer as intended.
 
 
Once fermentation is done, I will let it sit a couple of more days. 
Then I will rack to a secondary and add the dry hops and let sit for a couple of more days. 
Then I will cold crash for a minimum of 7 days, but probably longer (Florida here we come)
Then I will bottle.
 
Hopefully this will please the beer gods and give me something good to drink.
 
Thanks for all the help and ideas. :cheers:
 
GM over thinks things at times. Dry hop at ferm temps in primary is fine. Dry hop now. Cold crashing the primary is also fine. No need for racking to a secondary it is more likely to oxygenate the beer and risk infection and is not really necessary. Cold crash for 2-3 days is fine. again, this isn't a big beer in terms of volume or alcohol.

Suggest have a beer, put your feet up and put on the idiot box, all is going well.

Spend some time lurking on aussiehomebrewer, loads of good advice on all these issues for the home brewer.
 
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