contest February Throwdown - Cast Iron Shenanigans
- Thread starter wheebz
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salsalady
eXtreme Business
Hi Guys-
We're back home from Zestfest, and ready to get back into the TD. I was taking stock of the heavy metal and noticed a couple of interesting things. Thought I'd share a couple pics. Most of these have been seen before, but there's a lot of new-to-cast-iron people on now.
Old Griswold waffle iron- serial numbers 885 and 886
New Lodge Dutch Oven
old WagnerWare Skillet. It's hard to see but the 2nd picture says "11 3/4 INCH SKILLET Made In USA" (11 3/4"???? REALLY???? They couldn't squeeze out another 1/4" to make it a 12" skillet??? lol )
old Chicken Pan 8- notice serial number in 2nd picture and serial number on lid. No brand or maker.
Inside of old 5" skillet, notice the circular design from the milling (is that the right word) process, and the interior of the new Lodge DO with the pebbly surface. I much prefer the old milled surface to the new pebbly kind.
The Lodge DO came pre-seasoned, but I don't feel like it's nearly seasoned enough. I need to do the Prime Rib Roast on the bbq process like we did when borrowing my neighgbor's old rusty DO's. Maybe that'll smooth out the surface a bit.
We're back home from Zestfest, and ready to get back into the TD. I was taking stock of the heavy metal and noticed a couple of interesting things. Thought I'd share a couple pics. Most of these have been seen before, but there's a lot of new-to-cast-iron people on now.
Old Griswold waffle iron- serial numbers 885 and 886
New Lodge Dutch Oven
old WagnerWare Skillet. It's hard to see but the 2nd picture says "11 3/4 INCH SKILLET Made In USA" (11 3/4"???? REALLY???? They couldn't squeeze out another 1/4" to make it a 12" skillet??? lol )
old Chicken Pan 8- notice serial number in 2nd picture and serial number on lid. No brand or maker.
Inside of old 5" skillet, notice the circular design from the milling (is that the right word) process, and the interior of the new Lodge DO with the pebbly surface. I much prefer the old milled surface to the new pebbly kind.
The Lodge DO came pre-seasoned, but I don't feel like it's nearly seasoned enough. I need to do the Prime Rib Roast on the bbq process like we did when borrowing my neighgbor's old rusty DO's. Maybe that'll smooth out the surface a bit.
There are actually 3 times of cast iron bottoms. That 5 inch is a lathed bottom. They also used to "machine" the bottoms. I'm not sure what that means, but the bottom ends up very smooth. However they have no "circular" marks from the lathing. And the third is naturally the "pebbled" bottom like new pieces today have.
salsalady
eXtreme Business
[sup]Thanks, DaQuatz. I didn't think I had the right term. I didn't realize there were 3 types of surfaces. Hmmm, now I'm curious to look at the pans again. [/sup]
edit-
[sup]Here's an old 5" with the smooth surface, and interesting markings on the back, no maker's mark. The edge is more curved than newer pans. [/sup]
[sup]
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[sup]
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[sup]Notice the slight differences in the WagnerWare logos. The upper one is the 11 3/4 INCH skillet and the lower one is the lathed 5" skillet. The top logo is a lot more precise than the bottom logo and the "G"'s are different. [/sup]
[sup]
[/sup]
How to Identify Cast Iron Cookware Marks
X
Laura Reynolds
Laura Reynolds began writing professionally in 1974. She has worked as author and editor in nonfiction, professional journals and newspapers. Reynolds has also served in numerous appointed and elected local offices. She holds a Bachelor of Science in education from Northern Illinois University.
By Laura Reynolds, eHow Contributor
Identify Cast Iron Cookware Marks
Flag this photo
Serious collectors know that many people have old cast iron pots inherited from a relative sitting in the back of the cabinet waiting to be brought out for a yard sale. Good cooks know that many of those same people spend good money trying to find pans that work as well as those in the back of their own cupboards. Identifying old cast iron pans requires some time and effort. Here's how to begin to decide which cookware to keep (and use) and which to put in the rummage sale.
Suggest Edits
1
Look for a maker's name and location. Griswold and Wagner are the two most sought-after brands of antique cast iron cookware, but many more companies made cast iron cookware, too. Fanner, Crusoe, Puritan, Columbus and other makers produced cast iron cookware in the shadows of the steel mills of the Monongahela and Ohio River valleys in Pennsylvania and Eastern Ohio from the middle of the 19th century through the 20th century. Other early makers were generally scattered around the Midwest near the natural resources that created cast iron. Griswold pieces may also have their factory location, "Erie Pa." on the bottom of the pan. Wagner was located in Sydney, Ohio. Antique dealers may be able to provide information on other brands.
2
Look for patent data. Many makers patented cookware or novelty designs to show how modern their pieces were. Griswold Manufacturing Company was established in 1865 and was purchased by Wagner Ware in 1957. The Wagner Hollow Ware began in 1881 and became the Wagner Manufacturing Company in 1891. They become Griswold and Wagner in 1957, and in 1996 assumed the name that is stamped on most of their cookware, "Wagner Ware." Any patent dates should fall within the range of the maker's corporate identity. Some pieces may have a U.S. patent number rather than a date. The number will be preceded by the words "US Patent."
3
Check for size markings. Makers often mark pieces with numbers that correspond to size. This helps match skillets to tops and parts of multipiece items such as waffle, wafer and corn dog irons. The mark may not always correspond to the actual measurement of the piece. For instance, the skillet with lid pictured here is marked "8" but is actually 10 inches across.
4
Find any stock numbers. The Wagner Ware ashtray pictured here has a stock number of "1050" with a letter "c" beneath it. These numbers may refer to a catalog number. Reprint catalogs are available from American Culinary, successor company to Griswold and Wagner Ware, that can be used to identify pieces. David Smith's website, www.panman.com, carries reprints for Griswold, Wagner and Wapak hollowware.
5
Note any other numbers or markings, including piece names like "Dutch oven," "chef's skillet" or other descriptions. The cornbread mold pictured has only a "7S" mark on the back, possibly denoting that it is a seven-muffin plaque. These numbers are often unique to manufacturers (even the Griswold Company produced "unmarked" pieces) and were impressed in promotional or second-quality pieces. In all probability, only a collector or expert can decode them.
Tips & Warnings
edit-
[sup]Here's an old 5" with the smooth surface, and interesting markings on the back, no maker's mark. The edge is more curved than newer pans. [/sup]
[sup]
[sup]
[sup]Notice the slight differences in the WagnerWare logos. The upper one is the 11 3/4 INCH skillet and the lower one is the lathed 5" skillet. The top logo is a lot more precise than the bottom logo and the "G"'s are different. [/sup]
[sup]
How to Identify Cast Iron Cookware Marks
X
Laura Reynolds
Laura Reynolds began writing professionally in 1974. She has worked as author and editor in nonfiction, professional journals and newspapers. Reynolds has also served in numerous appointed and elected local offices. She holds a Bachelor of Science in education from Northern Illinois University.
By Laura Reynolds, eHow Contributor
Identify Cast Iron Cookware Marks
Flag this photo
Serious collectors know that many people have old cast iron pots inherited from a relative sitting in the back of the cabinet waiting to be brought out for a yard sale. Good cooks know that many of those same people spend good money trying to find pans that work as well as those in the back of their own cupboards. Identifying old cast iron pans requires some time and effort. Here's how to begin to decide which cookware to keep (and use) and which to put in the rummage sale.
Suggest Edits
1
Look for a maker's name and location. Griswold and Wagner are the two most sought-after brands of antique cast iron cookware, but many more companies made cast iron cookware, too. Fanner, Crusoe, Puritan, Columbus and other makers produced cast iron cookware in the shadows of the steel mills of the Monongahela and Ohio River valleys in Pennsylvania and Eastern Ohio from the middle of the 19th century through the 20th century. Other early makers were generally scattered around the Midwest near the natural resources that created cast iron. Griswold pieces may also have their factory location, "Erie Pa." on the bottom of the pan. Wagner was located in Sydney, Ohio. Antique dealers may be able to provide information on other brands.
2
Look for patent data. Many makers patented cookware or novelty designs to show how modern their pieces were. Griswold Manufacturing Company was established in 1865 and was purchased by Wagner Ware in 1957. The Wagner Hollow Ware began in 1881 and became the Wagner Manufacturing Company in 1891. They become Griswold and Wagner in 1957, and in 1996 assumed the name that is stamped on most of their cookware, "Wagner Ware." Any patent dates should fall within the range of the maker's corporate identity. Some pieces may have a U.S. patent number rather than a date. The number will be preceded by the words "US Patent."
3
Check for size markings. Makers often mark pieces with numbers that correspond to size. This helps match skillets to tops and parts of multipiece items such as waffle, wafer and corn dog irons. The mark may not always correspond to the actual measurement of the piece. For instance, the skillet with lid pictured here is marked "8" but is actually 10 inches across.
4
Find any stock numbers. The Wagner Ware ashtray pictured here has a stock number of "1050" with a letter "c" beneath it. These numbers may refer to a catalog number. Reprint catalogs are available from American Culinary, successor company to Griswold and Wagner Ware, that can be used to identify pieces. David Smith's website, www.panman.com, carries reprints for Griswold, Wagner and Wapak hollowware.
5
Note any other numbers or markings, including piece names like "Dutch oven," "chef's skillet" or other descriptions. The cornbread mold pictured has only a "7S" mark on the back, possibly denoting that it is a seven-muffin plaque. These numbers are often unique to manufacturers (even the Griswold Company produced "unmarked" pieces) and were impressed in promotional or second-quality pieces. In all probability, only a collector or expert can decode them.
Tips & Warnings
25]
· Check dealers and collectors club catalogs and websites to find markings that match the stampings on your pieces. Putting a value on your pieces can be as easy as finding an identical piece at an antique mall or as involved as finding an expert to give you an appraisal. Search patiently and get as much information about cast iron cookware as you can before dealing with an antique or collectible dealer who might want to buy it. Never dispose of a good old cast iron pan. Most old pans, even painted and rusted, are reclaimable, and many cooks swear by them as the best cookware available. "Newer" cast iron (after 1950) is considered inferior to the older, harder "black" cast iron and much of it is amazingly light.
· As with any collectibles, cast iron (even Griswold or Wagner Ware) is only worth what people are willing to pay for it. A quick check on eBay will confirm that pieces that are over-priced by their owners draw few bids.
Another good article-
http://www.ehow.com/...n-skillets.html
griswold marks-
http://www.griswoldc...ng_griswold.htm
· Check dealers and collectors club catalogs and websites to find markings that match the stampings on your pieces. Putting a value on your pieces can be as easy as finding an identical piece at an antique mall or as involved as finding an expert to give you an appraisal. Search patiently and get as much information about cast iron cookware as you can before dealing with an antique or collectible dealer who might want to buy it. Never dispose of a good old cast iron pan. Most old pans, even painted and rusted, are reclaimable, and many cooks swear by them as the best cookware available. "Newer" cast iron (after 1950) is considered inferior to the older, harder "black" cast iron and much of it is amazingly light.
· As with any collectibles, cast iron (even Griswold or Wagner Ware) is only worth what people are willing to pay for it. A quick check on eBay will confirm that pieces that are over-priced by their owners draw few bids.
Another good article-
http://www.ehow.com/...n-skillets.html
griswold marks-
http://www.griswoldc...ng_griswold.htm
It may just be. The info I have is just something a read on a website. Either way, the old smooth bottom pans still have two types. With the circular pattern, and without. They may both be lathed for all I know. I have a #8 griswold I found in my basement it was made between 1930 and 1939 it's very smooth, and has no circular pattern.
All my cast iron have names. They're all named Betty. They're black too. Ram-a-lam.
11 3/4... Are those internet inches?
Machined bottoms rule. When properly seasoned it's like glass and you get the best sear.
Hey, this may have already been addressed, but do we have full rules yet? All components must be in CI, or one side can be done outside CI? Item can be started in something other than CI and finished in CI? Whats the durrrty durrrty?
All my opponents are gonna need the most help they can get...
Me Next Week
All my opponents are gonna need the most help they can get...
Me Next Week
11 and three fourths is a #10 CI pan. Just like a #8 is 10 and 1/4.
Solid surface, all cooking.
Did someone say fried eggs? WIN!
Nice wheebz!
Im fixin to machine your bottom.
Nice wheebz!
Im fixin to machine your bottom.
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