beer =[ GM's 1st 16x Batches, and/or 10 mo. Brewing ]=

i have like seven kegs to clean this weekend, and two or three more will be generated right afterwards =( ...

mulberara and the mild both ready to hit their smaller service kegs for crashing and carbing ...

but i need to wash those two three gal kegs first, and don't feel like it, lol
 
grantmichaels said:
i have like seven kegs to clean this weekend, and two or three more will be generated right afterwards =( ...mulberara and the mild both ready to hit their smaller service kegs for crashing and carbing ...but i need to wash those two three gal kegs first, and don't feel like it, lol
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Can you use the same keg to cold crash and then carb in? Thinking that I primary ferment in the 3 gallon carboy then transfer to keg to cold crash/secondary ferment and then carb. Does that work?
 
tctenten said:
Can you use the same keg to cold crash and then carb in? Thinking that I primary ferment in the 3 gallon carboy then transfer to keg to cold crash/secondary ferment and then carb. Does that work?
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there's best-case's and there's good enough ...

I'm using Clear Beer floating liquid pick-up's instead of the normal keg spears on some kegs ...

Those are serving top-down, so like, I'm drinking Zorg off the Galaxy hops in the bottom ...

Won't matter till the end, rather than spear-life, where you get those crappy pours up front ;)
 
I plan to ferment small batch ipa's on the stove using hopshot, immersion chill, dry-pitch US-05, ferm in LBMB's, dry hop on the last day of ferm, then rack off into 1.5 gal keg (? more dry hops) to slow-carb while on dry-hops ...

can then fill some bottles to stick in house fridge when samples taste prime ...
 
i hate making sanitizer and shit on non-brew-day's, and i'm a slacker, light-colored beer ..
I'm planning to steal A LOT of time back from brewing & related activities now, to be honest ...
 
You would be rehydrating the yeast on brew day. I follow what I read in Palmers book. Takes about 30 mins. Just rehydrating not a starter.

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What I have been doing when using US-05. Pretty easy.
 
but, it's a 50% hydrophillic kill for dry pitching ...

a US-05 is good for like 5-6 gallons of medium-strength beer (or more if you are Mr. Awesome), and I'm planning to make 2x 1.25 gallon batches of high strength, so the split of the pouch is simple ...

i don't have a need to spare the half-pack, because i wouldn't store it (opened) anyways ...

you are describing the ideal, i am describing the KISS is all ...
 
exactly ... so, dry pitch half to each in my case, or you just pitch the packet ...

those dead one's provide nutritional substrate (ghost shells, i believe) anyways ...
also, starters are trade-off's in and of themselves, and a vector for infection ...

started w/ pre-boiled water is not good, yeasties will suck up chlotophenols from tap, and how good for yeast can sanitizer be?

f**k it, wort is pretty much where you want that yeast and Fermentis preloads them w/ trehalose or whatever for dry pitching ...
 
I need to deal w/ my two beers, but don't want to ...
 
The Mulberara and the Mild need to be put in their service kegs, have gravity's taken etc ...
 
Instead, I yanked their blow-off's, put the Mulberara in the chamber, and turned the temp-controller's set-temp down to 34F ...
 
I figure if there's any real trouble w/ the gravity of the Mulberara, I'll just hit it w/ some Danstar CBC-1 and Isohop and a little dextrose/sucrose or something that I'll figure out later ... only if it's a thing ...
 
Bottle saving, I'll save the 22 oz. bombers that I buy and now I'm saving these

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For a beer I plan on making to give out as presents next year.

My thing is I try not to buy bottles I can't peel the label from so, those with painted bottles I pretty much skip.
 
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