beer =[ GM's 1st 16x Batches, and/or 10 mo. Brewing ]=

bud light is indeed awful. i think the only light beer that i ever liked was the sam adams light. idk if they even make it anymore.
 
its astonishing that they make so much money.
 
and dont you just love how condescending the piss beer maker is in the above commercial? i think they were actually trying to court controversy in order to generate some publicity.
 
along the way, in all of the time, i could barely get a couple down ... Negro Modelo and then I liked Apollo Lager, and the occasional Corona ... but man, that was IT ...
 
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yeah, indeed it's just an auber ...

was able to just work to offset cost - which is easier and more reliable and i get final product that's nicer.

also, if i did the build, i wouldn't have time to brew ...
 
150x billable-hours over only 12 days is epic, and also life shortening, certainly.

pretty crabby =)
queequeg152 said:
i havent been following this thread... are you building an all electric AG brewing deal or something?
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yup ...

recirculating mash (so i can work while it mashes).

90 mins back.

over-the-top wort chilling - (recirc through plate chiller on spigot, over immersion chiller in kettle circulating ice water), to take 30 more mins back.
 
all electric certainly seems to be the way to go... how many amps will you be puling out of your wall? my tig machine draws like 60 amps @240... im guessing your setup could verywell be more than that.
 
This is one is maxed 120v, 2000kw, 30 amp ... needs GFI ...

Power enough for 3 gal batches (6 gal kettle) ...

If I'm in a hurry, I can plug in the 1500kw trough warmer, too, from a different circuit ...

electricity is cheap, and lends itself to automation etc ... pay up front, save over time ... no running for gas, either ;)
 
well... dont be afraid of throwing another branch circuit into your garage or where ever you need... its terribly simple. you can even run the cable yourself and have an electrician wire the panels.
 
i think 00 aluminum cable is what i have in my attic here.
 
I wired in a 30 amp drop for the in-laws to hook up their trailer when they come down. Aluminum wire, only time I ever had an electrical problem in a house it was because aluminum wire had been used. Replaced it with copper and problem gone. It was causing my electrical panel to over heat and the main sub to jump. Of course it was a 220 line to a dryer, it had been a 110 it probably would have been ok but I have made a point of using only copper since then.
 
I want to do an electric system too. Probably will DIY something like they do here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/of course the geek in me is going over how I can code it in VB or C#. Then when a timer is up or an alarm goes off I can have it send a text message to my phone and there are a few other idea's I have but now I've probably have Grant thinking about it too :)
 
I really like their control panel and I could go 110 v. 30 amp. to start while doing 5 gallon and then switch up to 220 v element in the boil kettle if I move up to 10 gallon.
 
RocketMan said:
I wired in a 30 amp drop for the in-laws to hook up their trailer when they come down. Aluminum wire, only time I ever had an electrical problem in a house it was because aluminum wire had been used. Replaced it with copper and problem gone. It was causing my electrical panel to over heat and the main sub to jump. Of course it was a 220 line to a dryer, it had been a 110 it probably would have been ok but I have made a point of using only copper since then.
 
I want to do an electric system too. Probably will DIY something like they do here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/of course the geek in me is going over how I can code it in VB or C#. Then when a timer is up or an alarm goes off I can have it send a text message to my phone and there are a few other idea's I have but now I've probably have Grant thinking about it too :)
 
I really like their control panel and I could go 110 v. 30 amp. to start while doing 5 gallon and then switch up to 220 v element in the boil kettle if I move up to 10 gallon.
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these days i dont believe it is kosher to use aluminum on actual receptical wiring... only for sub panels and drops... junk like that.
 
i think aluminum expands more so than copper, so you need terminal blocks made to handle it, and some other junk like anti oxidation paste... IDK maby salsalady is lurking around here.
 
Your probably right but going that far is a little more than I like to deal with so its worth it for me to spend the little bit more for copper and not have to deal with it but also and perhaps more importantly, for my wife's peace of mind. Mention aluminum wiring around her and she'll start telling you about house fires that were attributable to it.
 
yea aluminum caused alot of fires... its not the metals fault though, just bad practices. it was moderately harder to install properly.
its not as good as copper... this is hands down not disputed.
you can make it work well though... it just requires more care and different equipment. it fatigues easier than copper... that was a huge issue with poor installs. the biggest thing though, was using poor recepticals not designed specifically for aluminum. the terminals would slowly loosen and you would get hot terminals where oxidation and looseness caused resistance heating.
the same can happen with copper, but not to the same extent.

grantmichaels said:
yeah, i hear it's common to get to ten gal batches, and i'll bring in power for that, certainly ...
n
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ah man i just realized... if you did 10 gallon brews... you could pitch two different yeasts. and see how they compare. 
how rad.
 
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