beer =[ GM's 1st 16x Batches, and/or 10 mo. Brewing ]=

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dead pan ...

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too bad i did the same thing, shook it up, warmed it up for an hour, and pitched it over-top w/ a tsp nutes ...

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bah!
Wow that pH is high.  


Perhaps impossible-to-mash high ...

My first two outings I used bottled Fiji, because I knew about the pH already from gardening ... they fermented.

By my 3rd I was in the 'water is a detail' mode, and used tap water (unfiltered) and some pH5.2 stuff ... that batch never started.

This last was my 4th, and I used tap water with a charcoal filter, but clearly pH is still sky high, and maybe I'm locked out of extracting proper fermentables during the mash, despite the addition of the pH5.2 ...

I'm making a starter for the next batch, just to rule out the possibility my yeast got toasted when they shipped to me - as they were hot upon arrival.

Maybe things will pick up later on, we'll see - I haven't yet Google'd "yeast shock" ...

Time to hunt down sone charts, I guess! ;)


Hmmm ...

"Usually, when the pH is out of the desirable range it is too high, the result of alkaline liquor and insufficient acid in the grist. The usual response in such cases is to add gypsum, which contains calcium that reacts as indicated above.

It is important not to add too much gypsum for some styles of beer (such as Pilseners) because gypsum also contains sulfate, which gives a dry bite to the hop bitterness, ruining the style. These beers, brewed with low-kilned pale malts, are of course the ones most likely to require pH adjustment because of the low buffering capacity of the malts. In low-kilned pale malts, some phytase survives malting and will free more phytic acid over time, provided that some calcium is present. The purpose of the acid rest is to permit acidification of the mash. If the rest is long enough, lactic bacteria spores will germinate and a lactic fermentation will start. The lactic acid produced lowers the pH nicely, but the procedure is time consuming and a bit risky.

Some brewers use a mineral acid (hydrochloric, sulfuric, or phosphoric) or an organic acid (frequently lactic) to lower pH. If you use these acids, you must be aware of the flavor effects of the anion (chloride, sulfate, phosphate, lactate) that you are adding to the brew, and purists will be bothered by this violation of the Reinheitsgebot, the traditional German beer purity law that prohibits adding anything to the mash (although the Biersteuergesetz does allow mineral acids in some cases).

Calcium chloride avoids the hop harshness effect by pairing calcium with chloride rather than sulfate, but it is difficult for home brewers to obtain and is difficult to weigh because it picks up water from the air. If you are brewing a Burton ale, you want exactly the dry bitterness that sulfate produces, and gypsum is fine for pH correction in such beers."
 
My fermentation controller is driving it too cold, so I need to check the details/hysteresis stuff, I guess ...
 
It kicks on when I want two degrees above, but it manages to drive it down to ~62F, which is like 4F further than it should be ...
 
So, I need to work that out, and really, how to use the 2nd probe and fermwrap, too ...
 
Hopefully I'll have the right parts to connect the plate chiller to the faucet in the kitchen, there's no way I'm dragging the hose into the kitchen and listening to Danielle - nor would I really want the door or window cracked open for 10 minutes given the mosquito scenario right now ...
 
Then, I have to figure out the O2 tank + reg + want ... which I mean, I get, but I need to assemble it and see if it came w/ O2 or not, and I need to go have it filled ...
 
And then, I need to move liquids around between kegs and figure out how to setup and use the beer gun ...
 
I bought fresh fish filet and tasty ground beef so that I won't get into any BS w/ smoking meats or anything that will distract me from working on my brew pursuits this long weekend ...
 
I was able to order citric acid using amazon prime for thursday, so i'll work on the pH for the next batch ...
 
Lots to do, but I'm going, and that's the key ... momentum.
 
Might be time to install a rain tank…. pH will be much closer to spec.  
 
Adjust the pH before you get on to boil and do a strip test, if you aren't already.    Interesting the potential flow on changes though to other water chemistry.  Easy to tie oneself into knots correcting.... 
 
Bumper said:
Might be time to install a rain tank…. pH will be much closer to spec.  
 
Adjust the pH before you get on to boil and do a strip test, if you aren't already.    Interesting the potential flow on changes though to other water chemistry.  Easy to tie oneself into knots correcting.... 
 
known side effects on the other elements for citric acid? ...
 
No idea. Wheebz would probably know.  I haven't really used, it, I am fortunate to have water sitting on 5.4 pH so don't really need to adjust things much either way. 
 
Bumper said:
#jealous.  Work is owning me.  Today was.. 'well we might need to work Sunday again….'
 
Ugh, yeah ... we're a little slow right now ... which is pretty rare ...
 
I have the ingredients for running the last two kits from Brooklyn Brew Shop do be done w/ those (Chocolate Maple Porter and Summer Wheat), and I have the ingredients for the beer we almost brewed a few weekend's back (can't recall the style), and I have additional Pilsner malt, hops, & yeast for brewing a nice saison or biere de garde ...
 
We'll see, cooking up fresh fish and burgers and brewing a lot of beer sounds a lot like doing vacation well, to me ... we'll see what Danielle thinks.
 
Bumper said:
We still need to do the old ale too at some point…  Once you have some stores up might be the better go, you need to let it mature
 
All the more reason to do it now, at a time while I'm doing multiple other batches ...
 
First thing, though, I'm burning through those other two kits to use them up and get on to where I'm running my own recipes (or someone's) and know everything involved so I can start to work on figuring out my system's efficiencies ...
 
I talked to the guy who created it on the phone today, for over an hour ... I'm going to host their forum and produce content in exchange for credit ;) ...
 
So yeah, there will be folks and traffic coming over to my other forum (OB) starting imminently ...
 
Hopefully the fittings required to use the plate chiller arrive in time for the weekend =/ ... but, I still have 3x more no-chill containers, and I have enough saison ingredients for at least two batches, so it'll work out one way or another ...
 
Actually, I have two bags of ice, so I'm sure I can use the immersion chiller w/ ice water this weekend ... no biggie ...
 
Well, I guess I'll put my head down and wrap up this work ... should be blackening some sablefish later on today ... sounds like tasty tacos to me!
 
 
CHEERS!
 
No downsides to citric acid in the mash hence why I use it. You can find it for super super cheap at chicken feed or farmers supply stores as it is used to acidify the feed water for animals. I did not say anything about calcium chloride because the amount you would need to add to lower the pH to the levels you would need would move you way way out of the desireable range for brewing water chemistry for any beer style.
 
Cool, cool ... I do full volume mash, so all the water starts in the pot.

Once I have the water right, I can start brewing, and I shouldn't have to tinker w/ pH much during the rest of brewing.

I think other parts of brewing, during the boil lower pH too. Do I want to take it all the way to 5.2 w/ the citric acid, or to like 6, or ?

Going to brew a bunch in the coming days, at least that's the plan anyways!

CHEERS!
tctenten said:
Now you have my attention. Is that a self contained...all I would ever need....to make beer?
 
for the most part, yup ...
 
A little reminder for myself ...
 
Stepaway_copy.jpg

 
 

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This batch has become a pure experiment ... that fucter is warm ...
 
I tipped it a little, and beer and scent bubbled out around the seals ...
 
I think everything is awake in there, now ... LOL.
 
grantmichaels said:
My fermentation controller is driving it too cold, so I need to check the details/hysteresis stuff, I guess ...
 
It kicks on when I want two degrees above, but it manages to drive it down to ~62F, which is like 4F further than it should be ...
 
So, I need to work that out, and really, how to use the 2nd probe and fermwrap, too ...
 
Hopefully I'll have the right parts to connect the plate chiller to the faucet in the kitchen, there's no way I'm dragging the hose into the kitchen and listening to Danielle - nor would I really want the door or window cracked open for 10 minutes given the mosquito scenario right now ...
 
Then, I have to figure out the O2 tank + reg + want ... which I mean, I get, but I need to assemble it and see if it came w/ O2 or not, and I need to go have it filled ...
 
And then, I need to move liquids around between kegs and figure out how to setup and use the beer gun ...
 
I bought fresh fish filet and tasty ground beef so that I won't get into any BS w/ smoking meats or anything that will distract me from working on my brew pursuits this long weekend ...
 
I was able to order citric acid using amazon prime for thursday, so i'll work on the pH for the next batch ...
 
Lots to do, but I'm going, and that's the key ... momentum.
 
Are you only running the cold side or do you have anything on that set up to warm it up when it's too cold?
 
My controller has the freezer on the cold side, to cool it down and then I have a heating pad plugged into the hot side to warm it up when it gets too cold. Between the two it holds the temperature within + -.02 nicely.
 
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