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PIC 1's......Pod Pornage.............2012

Here's the start on my grow log. Well no pods yet but I have to start somewhere, and away we go!

The seeds in the containers are all c.chinense. They were dunked in a germinating solution for an over-nighter on December 1st.
This was the first phase of the germination process with plantings happening every 2 weeks through the month of January.
The annum species and the mild/medium strains will get planted late Jan through early Feb.

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Most of these are "Super-hots.

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Here's a shot from today, things are looking up and up.

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Here's a unique looking seedling. It has 3 cotyledon's and a set of 3 true leaves. The seedling is a Trinidad Scorpion Green, seeds are from Chris (cc). I've seen the triple cotyledon with my Coronong's but not the triple set of true leaves at the same time

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Here's another seedling that caught my eye. The leaves are as dark purple as my Dutch.Hot's. This one's the Purple Bhut Jolokia seeds were also from Chris. I know the leaves will eventually turn green.....but right now they look pretty... :cool:

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Did somebody say "Purple"......Here's one of my overwinters. The Maui Purple. The flowers have set and soon the chili's will form...........yea

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And finally another overwinter and was an over-achiever/producer last season. That's why its here. It's's the TS Butch T

More to follow, soon

Greg
 
I start everything indoors to move outside in May. Some get sold at local consevatories and garden clubs. I hope to end up with around 150 plants for myself.to plant in my yard.



Thanks Superhot, I put my feet in the water a little earlier than I have in the past. But with many new varieties with not only the peppers but with tomatoes ,and other veg. I need to overlap this process.......but hey thanks for the inspiring words.

Greg

We're scaling back the supers next year to make a stronger push with the tomatoes from seed stock we've been collecting all around the world. It's amazing how quick our new friends jump at the offer for some superhot seeds!! The superhot growers in Eastern Europe are revered as gods and share the most remarkable stories.
 
Hey, Not much to report on with the "flats" just some seed heads popping through. Here's some more shots of the overwinters.


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Here's a Yellow Mazano "Perrons"....It was cut back to a twig as an expierment. It's moving right along and is starting to branch out.



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The hairy "Goat's Weed"...grows up in a nice conical shape.


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A "Douglah" flower.....can't wait!


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"bam!"... Some buds waiting to explode (Yellow 7/Pot or/st)
 
they look extremely happy
 
cool man...check out my post "Attention Chicagoans" in the lounge
 
your stuff looks perfect--you've done this before apparently.

What's the reason for giving a longer head start to the C. chinense plants? Is it that they grow more slowly as seedlings, or that you set them out earlier? I have heard that superhots can be slower to germinate, but I have been seeing them pop out radicles only maybe a day later than the medium-hot chinense and the annuums (I germinate them on a paper towel first). Only a couple of strains (chocolate and yellow Bhuts) have not yet popped.

I may have made a mistake in starting C. annuums together with the C. chinense.
 
Cool. Nice pics
Hey thanks...welcome to this site
Looks like you're on top of your game for this coming season
Looks like you're on top of your game for this coming season
I'm giving it a good shot this year...I hope we can get an early dry spring! Greg
your stuff looks perfect--you've done this before apparently. What's the reason for giving a longer head start to the C. chinense plants? Is it that they grow more slowly as seedlings, or that you set them out earlier? I have heard that superhots can be slower to germinate, but I have been seeing them pop out radicles only maybe a day later than the medium-hot chinense and the annuums (I germinate them on a paper towel first). Only a couple of strains (chocolate and yellow Bhuts) have not yet popped. I may have made a mistake in starting C. annuums together with the C. chinense.

I give the c.chinense a head start since some of them can take as many as 115 days to ripen. I haven't had any problems producing ripe peppers once if not twice in a season since most already have small peppers on the plants when they're brought out.
Where I live, the last frost day is around the middle of May. My season ends early November, If I'm lucky. I pot up the plants 3 times before their final home. The transplant process sets them back a bit.
Annum's are fast growers out of the gate and can get tall indoors pretty fast. They also ripen sooner, 70 to 95 days. That's the main reason I start them later Jan/Feb... Thanks for the inquiry.

Greg
 
Hey Brandon,

Thanks for the inspiring comments., I wanted to start this from the beginning this season.
Good luck with your grow log. Your comments and responses are always worth the read.......You must have been an English major with a background in Journalism........... :cool:
Plus you have the camera ....and you know how to use it. ...I'll bet you'll come up with some very creative photography!


Greg

Wow.. Thanks alot Greg, that was quite the compliment! I was checkin up on your GL and reading that reply made me realize for some reason my quote notifications were turned off, so thanks again lol. Funny thing is I hated english, journalism, or anything to do with writing. I guess in school there was nothing that interested me to write about. Ha kinda funny though.. recently someone told me on my GL were alot alike, I'd have to agree, when reading replies or quotes I tend to weave through the typical one liners.. but when I see your always informative posts I always stop for a read. Actually it's almost a bit of a post race, if you get to a topic before I did, I see your post.. I don't reply because it's almost always exactly what I was going to say lol. Other than that, I'm not the only one with photo skills, your pictures are always great, Speaking of.. Hey uh.. I think your yellow 7 might need some more buds. Really!? Thats nuts! I'm still working on a creative pod picture shot.. We got our work cut out for us there..We'll have to give Chris (CMP) a run for his money this year :lol:

:cheers:
Brandon
 
When do you normally prune the plants back?? Once the ave temp drops to a certain point, when they slow down or just when you think it is the right time?? Was reading another post and they had quoted Neil from THSC as saying he cut his back a little bit first and then once some new sprouts shoot out he trims the plant right back so only a few new sprouting leaves remain and he thinks he gets better re-growth that way. ?? Any tips of pointers you have on this as I am really keen to over winter a couple of plants this coming winter (in another 5-6 months time for us)
 
Hey Trippa,
If your talking about overwintering and bringing the plant indoors, I do a cut back the day they're brought indoors. (Pepper-Guru has excellent info on overwintering at the top of this grow forum).
When indoors, I let the plants go into a semi dormant state (low to opaque lighting). The overwinters were root pruned and branch trimmed replanted in clean pots with sterile soil, prior to being brought indoors. No leaves or new growth are left on at this point. If any new growth forms I'll slice it off, until I'm ready to let the plants run their cycle. Very little to hardly any water is given or needed since my plants are in a cool area in a sub-basement, Once I decide on letting the plants fire up I'll place them under lights 24/7 for the 1st month. That helps to trigger the new growth.
I placed the plants under the lighting equipment
about 3/4 weeks ago. I'm shooting for early May to harden those off and plant in containers by the 3rd week in May. That would give me around 18 weeks of indoor growth. Certain plants with get pinched after the 1st set of leaves on all shoots then once again after the next 1st set. That not only slows down the growth a bit but know I'll have 4 growing tips per branch rather than one. Thus resulting in a "Bushy" indoor plant. Once outdoors the plants will be strong "stemmed" enough to support heaps of "pain" to be harvested.....at my leisure......lol
While indoors, the light cycle gets cut back to 18/6 for the remainder of the indoor grow for those and for my seedlings. There's alot more to this, But I hope this little bit of info helps. Anything more specfic on this just PM me and I'll see if I can answer your ?

Greg
 
Wow, amazing early start Greg. Now I don't feel like I'm starting too early in January. You're well on your way to a great year!
 
Lookin goot... I will start mine just after the first of the year. I can plant out by the end of feb. I need to work on my beds, but everything is growing like gang busters still.
 
Wow, amazing early start Greg. Now I don't feel like I'm starting too early in January. You're well on your way to a great year!

Thanks, Tony
,I started a little earlier this season, I have more varieties and I need to stagger my plantings...

Greg

Lookin goot... I will start mine just after the first of the year. I can plant out by the end of feb. I need to work on my beds, but everything is growing like gang busters still.

Your very fortunate with the Feburary plant out!.......2 or 3 good harvests this year?.......... :cool:

Greg
 
The amount of buds showing on that 7pod is amazing

Thanks Walka,
That's one of my overwintered (OW)plants. The Yellow 7Pot org/st was a large plant outdoors, about 5ft tall. It was a heavy producer with very tasty pods. That's why I decided to overwinter it. I am also planting seeds from some of its peppers from last season. As with all of the (OW) plants, the ones that are "budding" out are producing numerous amounts of flowers. That's one advantage to the process, especially when planting outdoors. You'll end up with many more peppers in comparision with a 1st year plant from seed. Right now I have "Douglah" seeds sprouting, at the same time my (OW)Douglah is "rockin" with flowers...

Greg
 
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